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  1. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 71CHOPS View Post
    the red one looks like a regulator of some kind and the other a filter, strainer, or solids separator.
    I agree. Any pictures of the burner assembly. The Pacific Flush Tank item is the gas regulator to drop the incoming methane from the compressor building to your burner's rated pressure. A picture much further back would help a lot.

  2. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCN View Post
    I agree. Any pictures of the burner assembly. The Pacific Flush Tank item is the gas regulator to drop the incoming methane from the compressor building to your burner's rated pressure. A picture much further back would help a lot.
    If it’s a regulator how do you adjust it? There’s no adjustment. Is just a fixed orifice deal? Many questions to follow. The burner itself is a typical old school power burner- dual fuel- farts and natural with a methane actuator and a common fluid power on/off single firing right Honeywell fluid power

  3. #16
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    Chops your a man after my own heart my freind- we talking screw chillers one minute - fart burners the next. I enjoy this field!

  4. #17
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    LOL! Yeah man, I work on anything and everything....and make no promises on any of it!

    I see stuff every day that I don’t know what it is, just gotta keep on keepin on!!

  5. #18
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    See if we can get this pushed to one of the Pro Forums and I'll go into a little more detail.

  6. #19
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    For sure- the boiler message board looked dead so I posted here- sorta a mistake I usually post in the pros. Lots of questions about tuning parameters with the fart gas- I mean the properties are so inconsistent I was always under the impression safety ie CO number one and smooth consistent light off and stable firing is the main goal. What sorta combustion numbers do you strive for. I would think the 3-5%O2 would be asking a lot with an inconsistent “bio fuel”

  7. #20
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    I know it’s not an exact science with fart gas but as far as combustion analyzing goes it was mentioned that “even 1 to 1 1/2” %O2 can throw it off” no methane expert but is that not pretty lean? but I think he was referring to a different application. As far as burning methane what sorta O2 values is “ballpark” I say ballpark cuz obviously the heat content and priorities of the fuel will vary cu ft to cu ft- obviously error to the side of safety is paramount but please don’t shoot but given the nature of inconsistency of fuel just a guess I would say >200ppm CO would most likely be acceptable. I obviously less the better but I work in the real world- usually- when I’m not burning fart gas. Please don’t shoot! You can’t learn if you don’t ask. Just looking for ideal combustion values for “bio-fuel”. I agree about moving to pro forum- must’ve accidentally posted here? The hydronics topic board was dead. ATTENTION MODS!!!!

  8. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave1234 View Post
    I know it’s not an exact science with fart gas but as far as combustion analyzing goes it was mentioned that “even 1 to 1 1/2” %O2 can throw it off” no methane expert but is that not pretty lean? but I think he was referring to a different application. As far as burning methane what sorta O2 values is “ballpark” I say ballpark cuz obviously the heat content and priorities of the fuel will vary cu ft to cu ft- obviously error to the side of safety is paramount but please don’t shoot but given the nature of inconsistency of fuel just a guess I would say >200ppm CO would most likely be acceptable. I obviously less the better but I work in the real world- usually- when I’m not burning fart gas. Please don’t shoot! You can’t learn if you don’t ask. Just looking for ideal combustion values for “bio-fuel”. I agree about moving to pro forum- must’ve accidentally posted here? The hydronics topic board was dead. ATTENTION MODS!!!!
    Maybe I was misleading... I was talking about the oxygen content in the fuel. It will vary from season to season and day from night. I think a "ballpark" number would suffice due to the fuel quality and BTU content like you said.

    Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk
    -----Stop, step back, relax and have another go at it.-----

  9. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by BennyD View Post
    Maybe I was misleading... I was talking about the oxygen content in the fuel. It will vary from season to season and day from night. I think a "ballpark" number would suffice due to the fuel quality and BTU content like you said.

    Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk
    Right but with alternative fuel like methane you have no idea of btu content because of so much inconsistency
    "It's just like it doesn't work. I mean it seems to be ok now, but it usually like never works"

    "Never an always and always a maybe"

  10. #23
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    Dave. Start a thread in the pro’s commercial forum, we can get more in depth with technical assistance there. In the open forums, you won’t see in depth combustion assistance.

  11. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by 71CHOPS View Post
    Dave. Start a thread in the pro’s commercial forum, we can get more in depth with technical assistance there. In the open forums, you won’t see in depth combustion assistance.
    10-4. Also I was able to ID the components- one is a check valve other is a flame trap
    "It's just like it doesn't work. I mean it seems to be ok now, but it usually like never works"

    "Never an always and always a maybe"

  12. #25
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    Start a thread In the Pro’s commercial forum...

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