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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Dover, DE
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    10,642
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    Quote Originally Posted by McCarthy84 View Post
    Thanks guys!

    I made an appointment for tomorrow and let them check the duct work as well.

    Why would I have to change all the duct work for a higher ton unit? Won't it just produce more cold air using the same duct work?

    And I still need to know if those rusted coils are normal on a 5 year old system, and if that will cause issues any time soon.
    No, you’d need larger duct to handle the 1,600 CFM required by the larger unit.
    Surface rust on the tube sheet isn’t any cause for concern.
    “I haven’t failed. I’ve just found 10,000 ways that won’t work.” - Thomas Edison

    “It’s not whether you get knocked down, it’s whether you get up.” - Vince Lombardi

    "In this house we obey the laws of thermodynamics" - Homer Simpson

    Local 486

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Arrowhead Stadium
    Posts
    1,181
    Post Likes
    Rust is normal, all aluminum coils are and option on those units.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Citrus County, Florida
    Posts
    2,914
    Post Likes
    What county are you located? I have serviced a 2000 sq ft home with a 2 ton system. It was a surprise to me but I did a load calc and was very careful what parameters I entered. The home was built for energy savings. As been said, bigger is not better.
    Doug

  4. #17
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    14
    Post Likes
    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunslinger View Post
    What county are you located? I have serviced a 2000 sq ft home with a 2 ton system. It was a surprise to me but I did a load calc and was very careful what parameters I entered. The home was built for energy savings. As been said, bigger is not better.

    Manatee County.

    If I want to upgrade, in case my current system can't be improved, how about a 3 ton system with existing duct work? The current system is completely silent, I wouldn't care about a little noise from a 3 ton system.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Dover, DE
    Posts
    10,642
    Post Likes
    Stop obsessing over getting a bigger unit, it will cause a whole new set of problems for you.
    See if your unit is running correctly first. Then go from there.
    A larger tonnage unit should NEVER be considered any kind of an upgrade.
    “I haven’t failed. I’ve just found 10,000 ways that won’t work.” - Thomas Edison

    “It’s not whether you get knocked down, it’s whether you get up.” - Vince Lombardi

    "In this house we obey the laws of thermodynamics" - Homer Simpson

    Local 486

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    nebraska
    Posts
    2,633
    Post Likes
    Duct is sized to handle a specific volume of air. You can't increase the system size with also changing the duct . Florida isn't well known for insulation. Perhaps the cheapest fix will be to have more insulation blown in.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    SW FL
    Posts
    9,020
    Post Likes
    _ _ -... 4-Ton A/C unit WILL DOUBLE YOUR PROBLEMS.
    Designer Dan
    It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with "Some Art". ___ ___ K EEP I T S IMPLE & S INCERE

    Define the Building Envelope and Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows and Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    9,249
    Post Likes
    Do not change a unit out because of rust, its common and will really bad before it fails. Have the tech adjust the air flow to get the 30^F coil temperature drop verses the return air temperature to get proper dehumidification. You want <50%RH after a hour a/c run during the peak cooling.
    In the end, you need a small whole house dehumidifier to maintain <%RH during typical green grass climate weather. I would also consider adding fresh air ventilation to get good indoor air quality and comfort.
    If any of this appeals to you, check my past posts.
    Keep us posted.
    REgards Teddy Bear
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  9. #22
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    14
    Post Likes
    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by dan sw fl View Post
    _ _ -... 4-Ton A/C unit WILL DOUBLE YOUR PROBLEMS.
    Why?

  10. #23
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    14
    Post Likes
    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by teddy bear View Post
    Do not change a unit out because of rust, its common and will really bad before it fails. Have the tech adjust the air flow to get the 30^F coil temperature drop verses the return air temperature to get proper dehumidification. You want <50%RH after a hour a/c run during the peak cooling.
    In the end, you need a small whole house dehumidifier to maintain <%RH during typical green grass climate weather. I would also consider adding fresh air ventilation to get good indoor air quality and comfort.
    If any of this appeals to you, check my past posts.
    Keep us posted.
    REgards Teddy Bear

    Humidity is now at 48%.

    I did a ton of reading and called a bunch of HVAC companies. There was not one post or person claiming that my 2 ton system is adequate, and several suggested a 3 to 4 ton system, considering all my circumstances.

    AC is running nonstop and can't get below 78 F. In my home office its 84 F.

    I'll wait for the appointment tomorrow but based on how this unit performed over the years with a much brighter exterior color, this thing doesn't cut it for me. I know people running their AC on 68 F all the time with no issues and I want that option as well, if I feel like it.

    I'm already shopping around.

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    nebraska
    Posts
    2,633
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    Standard design is to keep the house at 75 degrees inside when it's normal highs for your area outside. Be sure to tell the contractor that you may want to keep the house at 68 so they can size it to your wishes. Word of caution though, keep the house temperature above the outdoor dew point or you will have condensation and mold in the walls.

    BTW make sure to tell them the office room is 6 hotter than the rest of the house so they can address the duct sizing for that room as they replace the rest of the duct to handle a larger system.

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    77,464
    Post Likes
    Your evap coil is probably dirty, and reducing air flow causing your poor cooling problem.
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Vero Beach, Florida
    Posts
    291
    Post Likes
    I agree with rider. Stop obsessing with oversizing your unit.

    Get a licensed contractor out there first to check everything out. Check the system in it’s entirety and the Duct work. If that all checks out, have them do a load calc on the house.
    Make a list of issues your having across the house, with your ac, so you can tell the contractor in one visit.
    Explain to the contractor that you would like to keep your house at 68. But please do keep in mind, living in Florida with the higher humidity, keeping your house that cold in summer will cause all of your windows to condensate. I see it all the time with these people from up north that want there houses at 68-70 in the summer. Then call to complain about higher electric bills, sweating windows, unit running all the time and never shutting off.

    If your system is setup properly, to include tstat calibration, a house set at 75-76 is very comfortable in the summer here in south Florida.

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