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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    SE Texas
    Posts
    546
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    Walk-In-Freezer Drain

    It's been a few years since I built a new walk-in-freezer and installed the mechanical, but I do still service them. Anyway, the school district I work for is having a new school constructed. Today, I was looking over progress on the kitchen and the video shows the walk-in-freezer condensate drain line. As you can see, the drain line heater is installed, but it is covered with tubing insulation. I couldn't tell how the contractor installed the drain line heater, but I could feel it inside the tubing insulation. Every condensate drain I've ever installed, I wrapped the drain line heater so many turns per foot and, when done, I would install 1" thick walled tubing insulation. When I felt the tubing insulation, I could tell the drain line heater was running along the bottom of the copper drain line. It is not wrapped. On top of that, the tubing insulation is only 1/2" thick wall. I just don't know if this is how things are done these days and whether or not I'm looking at problems down the road. What do y'all think? Thanks!

    https://youtu.be/kLx1y05bHUs
    With your chrome heart shining in the sun, long may you run.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Omaha
    Posts
    3,011
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    Looks normal to me..

    I've seen wrapped around the pipe and ive seen just ran along the bottom.
    Both seemed alright in my opinion

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Southold, NY
    Posts
    21,443
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    With Frost Tex I just run on the bottom of the drain and insulate.
    If Powered from the blower energies in cooling.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    SE Texas
    Posts
    546
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by pecmsg View Post
    With Frost Tex I just run on the bottom of the drain and insulate.
    If Powered from the blower energies in cooling.
    Cool, thanks! I just looked at the installation instructions and it looks like what is installed is the same thing. And, it looks like the 1/2" thick tubing insulation is okay, too. Great! Thanks for the help!
    With your chrome heart shining in the sun, long may you run.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    British Columbia, Canada
    Posts
    614
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    Instructions for a field built self regulating heat tape state to not wrap the heat tape around the drainline. Lay it underneath the pipe or INSIDE the drainline. Power it on defrost cycle only or on both def and refrig cycles if you must. Insulate and you're done. DO NOT USE THE ORANGE HEAT TAPES FROM HARDWARE STORES. THEY BURNOUT AND ARE CRAP. RAYCHEM or equivalent self regulating heat tapes that you cut to length, terminate in the field and heat shrink the connections with a proper termination kit. The ONLY way to roll...👊

  6. Likes UmmScott liked this post
  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    551
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    Actually Raychem does allow spiral installation.

    https://www.nventthermal.com/Images/...m432-26557.pdf

    This is how I have done for 30 years.

    Not saying a single trace wouldn't work, I have seen it done.

    I just couldn't sleep at night if I did it.

    Powered 24/7.

    Not saying this is the only way that works, but it has always worked for me.

    YMMV

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    British Columbia, Canada
    Posts
    614
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    I stand corrected. I remember reading that it shouldn't be spiralled and it shouldn't cross over itself. This manual says both are okay. Now I wonder if I read that or was told that. 🤔

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Southold, NY
    Posts
    21,443
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    Quote Originally Posted by koolkahuna View Post
    I stand corrected. I remember reading that it shouldn't be spiralled and it shouldn't cross over itself. This manual says both are okay. Now I wonder if I read that or was told that. 🤔
    That’s from the old ribbon heat tape.

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