Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 14 to 26 of 29
  1. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Southold, NY
    Posts
    25,542
    Post Likes
    With out the proper tools YOU DONT!

    Its not just lowering it, it needs to be tested to see if the minimum requirements are meet!

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    78,312
    Post Likes
    Quote Originally Posted by redmike1984 View Post
    How do I lower the speed? That is the question. If the speed tap T1 through T5 does nothing can it just be wired wrong? The speed should be able to be reduced right?
    Thought you already said that fan only speed is somewhat quiet. So the speed taps are doing something.
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Dover, DE
    Posts
    11,659
    Post Likes
    Your system needs a certain amount of air to operate. If you change the blower speed, with the sole object of lowering noise, and dont check anything else, you could cause damage.
    I havent failed. Ive just found 10,000 ways that wont work. - Thomas Edison

    Its not whether you get knocked down, its whether you get up. - Vince Lombardi

    "In this house we obey the laws of thermodynamics" - Homer Simpson

    Local 486 Instructor & Service Technician

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Millsboro, DE
    Posts
    181
    Post Likes
    The IOM chart on page 23 looks like your choices on the "21" are 2-1/2 and 3 tons, settings 3 & 5 respectfully. Someone else will have to comment on what 1, 2 & 4 do, if anything. I didn't save the IOM.

    I get too technical a lot of the time, so I'll try to clarify. It's the wrong unit for two tons. Because of that it could be noisy when it runs at 3 or 5. The jet should depart when you install the Code-required "17" furnace and reduce the flow by 33% or 50%.

    Hope this helps, and please remember you need to get this fixed before hot weather.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    11
    Post Likes
    Thread Starter
    Ferd1942, My air handler has heat so my IOM chart page 23 2.5 ton says Electric heaters: 4(max) speed tap: 2, volts: 208/240
    or Electric heaters: 4(max) speed tap 3, volts 208/240 The diagram on the outside of the unit says for 2.5 ton low speed T2 high speed T3. How can lowering it to these correct settings hurt? I'll be call installation company in the AM. Thanks all!!

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Millsboro, DE
    Posts
    181
    Post Likes
    RM: Truth be told you need one of the other people to handle this, as you've identified an area in which I truly don't know everything.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Southold, NY
    Posts
    25,542
    Post Likes
    Quote Originally Posted by redmike1984 View Post
    Ferd1942, My air handler has heat so my IOM chart page 23 2.5 ton says Electric heaters: 4(max) speed tap: 2, volts: 208/240
    or Electric heaters: 4(max) speed tap 3, volts 208/240 The diagram on the outside of the unit says for 2.5 ton low speed T2 high speed T3. How can lowering it to these correct settings hurt? I'll be call installation company in the AM. Thanks all!!
    What does the ducts day?

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Anderson, South Carolina, United States
    Posts
    17,110
    Post Likes
    Quote Originally Posted by redmike1984 View Post
    Ferd1942, My air handler has heat so my IOM chart page 23 2.5 ton says Electric heaters: 4(max) speed tap: 2, volts: 208/240
    or Electric heaters: 4(max) speed tap 3, volts 208/240 The diagram on the outside of the unit says for 2.5 ton low speed T2 high speed T3. How can lowering it to these correct settings hurt? I'll be call installation company in the AM. Thanks all!!
    Its not a matter of just changing the T1 through T5. The correct speed tap should be chosen by checking static pressure and setting the speed to whatever tap moves ~400cfm through your (likely too small) ductwork. Its not just a matter of swapping a wire, theres parameters that need to be adhered to or youll have murdered compressors, broken strip heat, sweating ductwork, frozen coils etc etc.

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Saint Augustine, Florida
    Posts
    54
    Post Likes
    It sounds as if your old air handler had a psc blower motor while your new air handler has a ecm blower motor. The advantage of the ecm motor is that it is capable of increasing its torque when faced with resistance caused by dirty filter, dirty coil and yes undersized ducting. The older psc motors did not have the capability to overcome any type of new resistance and most likely the ducting installed was undersized in the first place. Standard ecm motors can deliver adequate air flow up to .2 and in some cases .5. On your equipment rating tag it should display the suggested manufacturer static pressure. Now, without going into Bernoulli's Law of air flow it is easy to understand that when we place our finger over the end of a water hose the pressure of the water increases. It is the same with air flow, when the ducting can only handle a specific amount of air in the ducting square inches and the air flow exceeds the design conditions the air flow will increase in velocity and along with the increased speed comes the increased noise. Air is matter just as steel is matter, It being a gas does not lesson its interaction with other matter. Now, for your situation i would first locate the manufacturer recommended maximum static pressure and ensure that the installer return and perform a static pressure check in front of you. ( check out you tube to ensure he/she is doing it correctly ) The caveat of the ecm motors is that should the static pressures exceed that of the manufacturer suggested one than the motors module will generally go bad long before its expected life span. The module is where all the magnetic signals (electricity) is routed. Within the module there are capacitors and such that help dissipate the heat energy involved in the process of moving the air. With the added resistance of ducting, dirty filters, dirty coils and/or over sized blower motor the life span of your equipment's parts will be in jeopardy. I would guess if your guy can afford to travel to Italy he surely can afford a decent static pressure meter. Good luck and ciao.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    6,260
    Post Likes
    Quote Originally Posted by redmike1984 View Post
    Bazooka Joey last question,
    In reading the installation instructions which I finally found. "4.3.1 Cooling Mode" When the thermostat calls for cooling, the G terminal on the blower control board is energized which in turn energizes the indoor blower motor. This causes the indoor blower to circulate air through the air handler and duct system during the cooling cycle. The Y terminal on the blower control board is also energized which tells the blower control board to energized the cooling speed on the motor instead of the reduced CFM continuous fan speed." If it's already set at a speed of T4 or T5 how can it go a faster speed during cooling mode?
    Without seeing the wiring diagram, typically Y energizes the cooling compressor, there's probably a fan relay with a N/O ( normally open ) and a N/C ( normally closed ) set of contacts the N/C contacts may be hooked to the fast speed tap of the blower motor ( while in cooling mode ) if you where to run your A/C then set your fan from auto to ON chances ( while A/C is on ) that fan relay gets energized and closes the N/O contacts energizing the slower speed tap and opens the N/C contacts deenergising the fast fan speed. Try it to see if that's true. At least that's the way they used to work.

    I'm reading it that you only put the fan ON when the A/C was satisfied or in the off position and you did not do it while the cooling was running? Is that correct?

    Let us know how you make out once the shop opens Monday, what's their game plan and changes and static reading is.

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    11
    Post Likes
    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by jtrammel View Post
    It’s not a matter of just changing the T1 through T5. The correct speed tap should be chosen by checking static pressure and setting the speed to whatever tap moves ~400cfm through your (likely too small) ductwork. It’s not just a matter of swapping a wire, there’s parameters that need to be adhered to or you’ll have murdered compressors, broken strip heat, sweating ductwork, frozen coils etc etc.
    Hi jtrammel, While I agree on all of your points. No matter which speed tap the blue wire is in when the cooling mode kicks on the fan speed remains constant at jet engine speed. That cannot be right. That is the issue.. I've called the company and await there response.

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    11
    Post Likes
    Thread Starter
    "I'm reading it that you only put the fan ON when the A/C was satisfied or in the off position and you did not do it while the cooling was running? Is that correct?

    Let us know how you make out once the shop opens Monday, what's their game plan and changes and static reading is."

    Hi, I called yesterday and have yet to here from the shop, I'm driving over there today. To answer your above question of course I put the fan to ON while the cooling was running and it always kicks back to jet engine speed. The tap speed wiring must be wrong because when cooling kicks on it goes back to jet engine speed no matter the Tap speed choice of T3, T4 or T5. 640 condo units in my complex have the same exact duct work, I've been in a few apartments and you don't here the air handlers at all. Thanks, Mike

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Anderson, South Carolina, United States
    Posts
    17,110
    Post Likes
    Quote Originally Posted by redmike1984 View Post
    Hi jtrammel, While I agree on all of your points. No matter which speed tap the blue wire is in when the cooling mode kicks on the fan speed remains constant at jet engine speed. That cannot be right. That is the issue.. I've called the company and await there response.
    Is there only one wire going to the t1-t5 terminals on the motor or are there multiple wires?

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •