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  1. #53
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    Jun 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poodle Head Mikey View Post
    That is an interesting question - which had not ever occurred to me to ask. <g>

    Of course it's always both - and the fusible element inside the fuse generates it's heat by resistance as well
    and as with most conductors / material, the higher the temperature the higher the resistance the higher the temperature, so the fuse is self-fulfilling it's own prophecy to ' blow ' ... not to mention the small little detail that fuses are designed to ' blow ' once they get too warm, that is their entire reason to exist .... otherwise they would simply be called conductors .....

    not a fuse expert but I imagine the size of the conductor within the fuse is downsized quite a bit in order to be given a jump on reaching its design capacity limit ... or just sized as needed, and designed to operate within a set temperature parameter
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing." (Edmund Burke)

  2. #54
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Pahrump, NV
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidDeBord View Post
    David,

    That Temperature dropped from 174 degrees to 124 degrees after You replaced the fuse?

    And, what was the Ambient temperature?
    Both pictures were with the new fuses in place, and after I had attempted to clean the contacts. The plastic of the block was already slightly warped from heat. I wanted to see how it would do. Indoor temp was about 65°F. The hotter temps were from only 2 minutes of run time after the lower temp picture. I shut it down, and disabled the system after that.

    I haven't been able to find a new replacement fuse disconnect, and I'm not willing to hack in some breakers.

    The hot supply and element conductors had me concerned as well. They needed to be replaced.
    It's an upside down world we live in.

  3. #55
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    NE Ohio
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    personally I would not have a problem replacing fuse blocks with non OEM fuse blocks, if the OEM replacement fuse blocks were not available of if I felt they were inferior, so long as the replacement fuse blocks were of good quality and properly rated ... electricity is one of those things that you have to take control of and make the electricity act or respond how you want the electricity to act or respond ... so long as everything is done properly there should not, will not, be an issue

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuse-Block-....c100005.m1851

    as far as replacing fuses with a breaker, that I may be hesitant to do, depends .... especially without identifying the reason the fuses were blowing

    as far as the UL listing, yea, that is a very valid point, however, when working on older equipment we are often forced to alter certain aspects of the equipment using our experience and professional judgement, but of course go OEM whenever possible for the very reasons as stated

    Quote Originally Posted by mrcool View Post
    the 30 amp fuse r rated for 600v and the 60 amp r 480v, wire gauge on the 30 amp i think is #10 and the 60 amp is at lease #8 or #6 , i dont think it's the wire. i noticed the the fuse holder clip is attached to the lug portion of the fuse block with a rivet and it isn't tightly connected, there is some play. these are bussmann fuse blocks the cadilac of fuses. these are krack evaps sm24e-759-ckk there are 4 of them hooked up to a krack condensing unit cdd-0600-l4k-2230c two compressors on one unit, i did some searching here i found that these heaters burn out alot, and i have replaced about 8 heater on one evap that has 15 heaters on it, so 50% of heaters were bad, but still the fuses get hot and when one blows i replaced it and amp draw is fine so no heater blew. i'm going to replace one of the circuits of the fuse blocks with breakers, can anybody recommend a breaker that i can panel mount
    this is part of your overheating problem

    all considered this is really not that high of amperage or voltage should not be difficult to resolve
    Last edited by hvacskills; Yesterday at 04:17 AM.
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing." (Edmund Burke)

  4. #56
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Hamersville, Ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Goodman View Post
    Both pictures were with the new fuses in place, and after I had attempted to clean the contacts. The plastic of the block was already slightly warped from heat. I wanted to see how it would do. Indoor temp was about 65°F. The hotter temps were from only 2 minutes of run time after the lower temp picture. I shut it down, and disabled the system after that.

    I haven't been able to find a new replacement fuse disconnect, and I'm not willing to hack in some breakers.

    The hot supply and element conductors had me concerned as well. They needed to be replaced.
    There is/are Serious Issues with that system, with a Temperature of 174 degrees at that fuse block.

    I'm not going to "Stake My Life" on this, & I'd have to look the Data up, but, ... "If" I'm correct, the temperature of a Correctly Operating Fuse/ Breaker, should not Exceed 30 degrees above the Ambient Temperature.
    Hos 4:6 My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge. Because you have rejected knowledge, I will also reject you, that you may be no priest to me. Because you have forgotten your God’s law, I will also forget your children.


    "You've got to Stand for Something or You'll fall for anything" (A. Tippin)


    We are on a "Man-made Highway to Hell", Our so called "Leaders", Political & Religious, are encouraging The Mushroom like Sheeple to go faster.

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