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  1. #1
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    Jan 2009
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    Honeywell Spark Ignition Module Problem

    Hi guys, I have 3 dead ignition modules and I could use all the help I can get. Here is the story:
    Module #1: Last year in August, during a no heat service call, I replaced the ignition module Honeywell S8610U. The furnace is an old NG, gravity vented, single stage, up flow. 24V gas valve. Has a Pilot with a remote sensor. I cleaned it and left it in place. Everything worked fine after the service.

    Module # 2: Fast forward to this month, no heat call on the same unit. On arrival, the S8610U module has a #4 error code for "Flame out of sequence." and is locked out. It would not time out of the lock out, so I installed a new module. Again everything checks out fine, the furnace is working like a charm, so I go home.

    Module #3: Fast forward to the next day, no heat call on the same unit. On arrival the same error code, the module is again locked out. This time, I changed the module and the gas valve and re-did the ground. The wiring harness and the pilot is still the original. Again, the furnace is working like a charm. I cycle in on and off repeatedly, I stayed there for couple more hours, running the furnace and everything seams to be fine. So I go home.
    Next day I get a no heat call on the same unit again. I feel like I need to fake my own dead.

    The Honeywell S8610U module has no chip and the only programing is with 2 dip switches. One is for a Pre-purge, I left if default - OFF. The other dip switch is for Ignition try 15 or 90 sec. I left in in factory default for 90 sec.
    I'm using a remote flame sensor and the flame signal appears to be good and steady. Measured at 1 micA. New gas valve, good ground, what did I missed?
    It works as long as Im there, as soon as I leave, it locks out.
    I called Honeywell technical hot line. They are clueless. Waist of time.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated, tomorrow I will buy a bottle of Yukon Jack to the customer to keep him self warm, while I trying to figure this out.

  2. #2
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    Thread Starter
    I should probably add, that I have been using the same ignition module for years and never a single problem. Im planning on going back in the next few days and installing a new module with new pilot. This time I will use the local sensing option, and I will do a complete new ground. Any other ideas?

  3. #3
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    Mar 2015
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    "It works as long as Im there, as soon as I leave, it locks out."

    You could stay there & drink that "Yukon Jack" with your Customer, & eventually get to the point where the two of you, wouldn't whether the furnace worked or not.

    Is there any other "Electrical Problem" that is ongoing in the home?
    Hos 4:6 My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge. Because you have rejected knowledge, I will also reject you, that you may be no priest to me. Because you have forgotten your Gods law, I will also forget your children.


    "You've got to Stand for Something or You'll fall for anything" (A. Tippin)


    We are on a "Man-made Highway to Hell", Our so called "Leaders", Political & Religious, are encouraging The Mushroom like Sheeple to go faster.

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  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Phoenix, AZ (Previous: Texas, Oklahoma, Oregon)
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    Once upon a blue moon I had a bad gas regulator at the gas meter outside the house that threw me for a loop.

    Have you checked incoming gas pressure while running? An signs of excessive soot near burners?

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    Thread Starter
    Thank you guys for the ideas, Im building a check list for when I go back for another try. I will check the gas pressure, and see about any electrical problems. This is an apartment in a 10 unit building. I wonder what happens when everyone comes home in the afternoon and fires up their heaters. That could create a pressure drop, but how that could kill the module remains a misstery.

  6. #6
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    Oct 2015
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    Illinois
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    Well flame out of sequence would be a flame sensor reading when there is no call for flame / burner. I would say gas valve but you changed that. Is that unit old enough to have cast iron burners. They can continue to flame a while after the valve closes, especially if the burner ports are dirty/ slightly plugged. Other than that the flame sensor shorting but that should appear as a no flame sensed situation.
    Yes the 8610 spark box has always been reliable for me. You got a good head scratcher there. As for the lock out timer that may only be for a no flame sensed lock out then resets in 60 minutes. So a soft lock out not a hard lock out as in flame when there is supposed to be. ( this is an assumption)
    There is only one truly right way to do something, but there are thousands of wrong ways to varying degrees to do it.
    So the question is: If you don't do it right, then how wrong is it going to be???

  7. #7
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    Mar 2018
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    1 microamp doesn't sound very high. You did say it was steady though Have you checked the ground "to" the furnace? Did they change a water heater and not hook back a ground clamp to the water line or maybe use some pex pipe. While you were letting that furnace run so long, call a Honeywell tech support guy from the site. We all need a pro sometimes.
    Like to know how it comes out bro.

  8. #8
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    Thread Starter
    Im going back on Saturday morning, I will keep you posted!

  9. #9
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    Mar 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by FreeThrowGuy View Post
    Once upon a blue moon I had a bad gas regulator at the gas meter outside the house that threw me for a loop.

    Have you checked incoming gas pressure while running? An signs of excessive soot near burners?

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
    Hos 4:6 My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge. Because you have rejected knowledge, I will also reject you, that you may be no priest to me. Because you have forgotten your Gods law, I will also forget your children.


    "You've got to Stand for Something or You'll fall for anything" (A. Tippin)


    We are on a "Man-made Highway to Hell", Our so called "Leaders", Political & Religious, are encouraging The Mushroom like Sheeple to go faster.

    (AC-DC Lyrics)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
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    Victorville Ca
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    Go back with some duct tape you are getting water in the area of the mod. i get tons of calls in rain storms the day after and all my repeated call were water related

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by theoldscroll View Post
    1 microamp doesn't sound very high. You did say it was steady though Have you checked the ground "to" the furnace? Did they change a water heater and not hook back a ground clamp to the water line or maybe use some pex pipe. While you were letting that furnace run so long, call a Honeywell tech support guy from the site. We all need a pro sometimes.
    Like to know how it comes out bro.
    X2. That seems awfully low. I usually like to to see at least 3-4 but 5-6 mA is usually better on a residential furnace

    Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

  12. #12
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    Jul 2009
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    Columbia, MD
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    Make sure your burner ground and transformer ground / ground arent mixed up on the module.

    Make sure your burner ground from the module to the burner is good and clean surface where it is mounted. Remove the pilot and clean around where the pilot is. Remember, the flame rod signal comes from the rod and jumps thru the pilot to ground. So make sure all around the pilot and metal is clean.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  13. #13
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    Just a note to the OP;

    many of us don't respond in the open forums to technical questions that require diagnostics and repair.

    As a Pro member, the OP is better off asking deeper questions in the Pro residential area.

    Just my two cents.
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