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  1. #1
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    Jul 2018
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    Hydronic retrofit

    I will be finishing my basement in my own house hopefully soon. I would like to do a hydronic infloor retrofit. And adding a gas fired boiler. I have yet to speak to any of our distributors about this but there looks to be insulation panels that have grids to snap tubing into. How is is finished? Skim coat of concrete then plywood? Has anyone had any experience doing a retrofit? We have done a few inslab jobs but never a retro. Thanks

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
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    Buffalo,NY
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    Honestly I’m not sure. Typically you would want the underside of the slab insulated.


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  3. #3
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    Jul 2000
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    If you've got the ceiling height the best option would be to use the panels and then pour a new concrete floor over it. This will give you mass that will be somewhat more comfortable.
    Use the biggest hammer you like, pounding a square peg into a round hole does not equal a proper fit.

  4. #4
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    Thread Starter
    http://www.roth-usa.com/products_rad...anelsystem.cfm

    Might look further into this product. My main concern is the slab insulation. There should be a vaper barrier underneath the slab already. I have a 8 foot ceilings. But the laminated beam is not in the best spot so cant bring the floor height up to much.

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  5. #5
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    Dec 2013
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    Grand Junction Colorado
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    I installed in floor heat into my main floor staple up. What I did for my basement remodel, I added baseboard heat sized at 140° water temperature at 0° outside. which was almost twice as much at 180° water at 0°. Justin case you were looking for a cheaper downstairs option with separating the water temperatures

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  6. Likes Spitz liked this post.
  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    Wauconda, Il.
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    You might look into the Uponor Quick Track which is aluminum skin on the back of 1/2" plywood. Has grooves that you caulk 3/8" hepex tubing into. You can carpet, tile or laminate floor over and not lose too much height

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Southold, NY
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    This will give you some insulation if you can spare 1 - 2"
    https://www.amvicsystem.com/products/ampex/

  9. #8
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by pecmsg View Post
    This will give you some insulation if you can spare 1 - 2"
    https://www.amvicsystem.com/products/ampex/
    Looks like a higher r-value than the stuff from Roth. Wonder if you can set it ontop of concrete than finish it with a thinset or some type of quickcreat product. Its going to end up being about 800-1000sq ft.

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  10. #9
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    Aug 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spitz View Post
    Looks like a higher r-value than the stuff from Roth. Wonder if you can set it ontop of concrete than finish it with a thinset or some type of quickcreat product. Its going to end up being about 800-1000sq ft.

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    Yes I believe you can.
    If you can get extra insulation below it that will help also.

  11. #10
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    Jul 2000
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spitz View Post
    http://www.roth-usa.com/products_rad...anelsystem.cfm

    Might look further into this product. My main concern is the slab insulation. There should be a vaper barrier underneath the slab already. I have a 8 foot ceilings. But the laminated beam is not in the best spot so cant bring the floor height up to much.

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    All good ideas presented so far. The question now is: Budget, happiness with finished project and how much it will cost to heat the space to the "happiness" level.

    Two options still exist. 1) Take the existing floor up, take out two inches of fill and insulate and pour a new floor with tubing in it. 2) Replace the beam that is a headroom issue with one that is up in the floor joist depth making it flush. Then you can lay insulation over the existing floor and use any of the above mentioned products to put your tubing down.

    No matter how you go. the ultimate comfort and cost to operate would be my driving factors in making a final decision. I go look at so many remodels years after they're done and the customer is looking for some kind of answers as to how they can either afford to heat the space to a usable temperature or they're complaining about no matter how much energy they pump into the space it's just not as usable as they envisioned.
    Use the biggest hammer you like, pounding a square peg into a round hole does not equal a proper fit.

  12. #11
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    Thread Starter
    Yes I think cost will get out of control real quick. Cheapest install would obviously be electric but the needle on my electric meter would spin a little fast. I will research all options but have a feeling I will just add a zone panel and have one big zone for the basement. And get one of those fake electric fireplaces that double as a entertainment center. Those actually look fairly nice.

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  13. #12
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    Aug 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spitz View Post
    Yes I think cost will get out of control real quick. Cheapest install would obviously be electric but the needle on my electric meter would spin a little fast. I will research all options but have a feeling I will just add a zone panel and have one big zone for the basement. And get one of those fake electric fireplaces that double as a entertainment center. Those actually look fairly nice.

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    Also consider Resale!

    Busting up the existing floor leave a a lot of extras cheaply available.
    Bathroom, drains.

    Might as well go 4” and get real comfortable.

  14. #13
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    Thread Starter
    Stubbed out for a bathroom already. Wish i could have had more to do with it when it was built. it was a "ready home" a new house that the builder picked everthing then stuck a for sale sign on it.

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