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Thread: Milwaukee man

  1. #1
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    Milwaukee man

    Recent install for a local Milwaukee tool retailer at his home. 2 horrible design flaws with the home, no basement entry and no switches and very little lighting in the basement. So he broke out his new Milwaukee tripod light and an m18 lantern to brighten things up a bit.

    Replaced an 18 year old tempstar 2 stage with an S9V2. We installed the AC about 10 years ago but and still going strong in spite of the mice that attempted sabotage by chewing through the wiring harness in the outdoor unit shorting high and low voltage. That ordeal started this project with an XL1050 upgrade since his old thermostat started smoking on the wall. Then we found the gas valve bad and turns out the hx was cracked as well.
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    "If common sense was so common, everyone would have it."

  2. #2
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    That is nice right there, and that 1050 looks good on that wall.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    Your work is top notch i hate that CCSST to the water heater i like good old iron pipe

  4. #4
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    Don’t get me wrong. I think the metal looks very nice but how come you decided to put a piece between the filter and unit instead of leaving the drop full size? What were your static’s? Looks awesome tho man

  5. #5
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    The piece you see is for proper airflow. The s series furnace only allows for 16x20 mounted directly to the side, this has a 20x25, so I also added a 6" bottom return.
    "If common sense was so common, everyone would have it."

  6. #6
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    Tesp was .6, not perfect, but not bad. And thanks
    "If common sense was so common, everyone would have it."

  7. #7
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    Actually the opening in that furnace is 14x18 so putting the air cleaner up against the furnace would greatly reduce surface area of the media actually getting airflow and raise the static. Beautiful job, first thing I noticed was the spacer beside the furnace. Our distributor makes one for 16x25 cleaners and 20x25 cleaners depending upon needed airflow. The 16x25 transition goes over the 14x18 opening and transitions to the 16x25. The bigger one uses the 14x18 and a 6" box under the furnace that they sell. I hate seeing media cabinets right against the furnace. Sad to hear the 80% coming out will be the same way

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaldLoonie View Post
    Actually the opening in that furnace is 14x18 so putting the air cleaner up against the furnace would greatly reduce surface area of the media actually getting airflow and raise the static. Beautiful job, first thing I noticed was the spacer beside the furnace. Our distributor makes one for 16x25 cleaners and 20x25 cleaners depending upon needed airflow. The 16x25 transition goes over the 14x18 opening and transitions to the 16x25. The bigger one uses the 14x18 and a 6" box under the furnace that they sell. I hate seeing media cabinets right against the furnace. Sad to hear the 80% coming out will be the same way
    Same difference, 16x20 filter requires a 14x18 opening, at least that's my logic. Trane claims the 14x18 opening is good for up to 1600 cfm, I'm not going to argue it can't be done, but anything 3 ton or bigger gets a side bottom from me. I fabricate all of mine, I prefer it over buying fittings. It allows me to change dimensions to suit each job if necessary. I did some transitions for the filter at first, I just decided straight fittings are simpler, easier to seal, and I think they look better.

    Thank you yet again.
    "If common sense was so common, everyone would have it."

  9. #9
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    The spacer is what I was talking about. I agree on straight versus trans in that application tho.

  10. #10
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    If you make those fittings yourself what I really wanna see is a picture of your metal shop! The fittings you post are nice! Maybe one day I’ll build myself a nice metal shop

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by taylor2 View Post
    The piece you see is for proper airflow. The s series furnace only allows for 16x20 mounted directly to the side, this has a 20x25, so I also added a 6" bottom return.
    Hos 4:6 My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge. Because you have rejected knowledge, I will also reject you, that you may be no priest to me. Because you have forgotten your God’s law, I will also forget your children.


    "You've got to Stand for Something or You'll fall for anything" (A. Tippin)


    Mat_15:24 But he answered, “I wasn’t sent to anyone but the lost sheep of the house of Israel.”

  12. #12
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    Looks nice.

    I like nice metal work. Never did learn how to be a tin knocker, but I did learn how to measure then draw up the metal so someone else could make it, and have it look beautiful in the end!

    Wish I had photos of that stuff. But that was before God invented digital cameras or smarty phones with a built in camera.


    Quote Originally Posted by taylor2 View Post
    Same difference, 16x20 filter requires a 14x18 opening, at least that's my logic. Trane claims the 14x18 opening is good for up to 1600 cfm, I'm not going to argue it can't be done, but anything 3 ton or bigger gets a side bottom from me. I fabricate all of mine, I prefer it over buying fittings. It allows me to change dimensions to suit each job if necessary. I did some transitions for the filter at first, I just decided straight fittings are simpler, easier to seal, and I think they look better.

    Thank you yet again.
    If you were a real tech, you'd solder a relay on that board and call it good to go.

    I do a triple evac with nitro to remove non condensables.

    I use 56% silver on everything except steel.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pres1227 View Post
    If you make those fittings yourself what I really wanna see is a picture of your metal shop! The fittings you post are nice! Maybe one day I’ll build myself a nice metal shop
    You'll probably laugh, my metal shop is not very impressive, other than it's mobile. We have an 18' x 8' wide box trailer set up as a metal shop. First metal shop was in the back of a '95 Ford box van, 12' box, dually. I rigged up a blower a couple years ago for "ac" and use a propane heater in the winter. It's a pretty minimal setup, but I constantly ask when i'm getting my real metal shop. I reason if I can build what I do with the trailer, imagine what I would learn to do in a legitimate metal shop.

    The machines/tools that comprise my shop are: Pittsburgh machine, 4' tinsmith break, cheap roller/finger break/shear from harbor freight (I only use it to roll turning veins or really tight inside radius fittings, my co-worker asked me last summer "what's this for?" as he ran a strip of metal through the gears for the roller, I've since just about banned him from the trailer), old as dirt easy edger (my great uncle bought it used probably in the 70s), and an array of hand tools, shears, snips, hand breaks, pliers, etc.

    We do have an 8' heavy break in the actual shop that I usually have to dig out to bend anything that won't fit in the 4 footer.

    Here's some pictures to give you an idea what it's set up like. Name:  20150317_173731.jpg
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    As you can see, it can get pretty crammed in there especially if i'm working on bigger fittings. All of my radius or rounded fittings I roll by hand using a trick I learned on here.
    "If common sense was so common, everyone would have it."

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