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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
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    The key to is to confirm the reduction in dew point as the air flows through the cooling coil. Ideal is 5-7^F reduction of the dew point, assuring reduct in the moisture in the home air.
    Temperature is tricky because of the duct warming the air as it leave the coil and flows to the point where you are measuring. Also bypass air can effect the temperature readings alone.
    Regards Teddy Bear
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by Bazooka Joey View Post
    Did not see that as a match, do not know what type of blower the Gibson has but if it's a standard PSC To get a match @16 SEER you would need to have the field install TXV and either a variable speed or multi speed ECM Goodman furnace. If the Gibson has a EEM motor then you may be close to 16 SEER ( with TXV ) even thou it's still not a matching system.

    If it has a standard PSC motor chances are your in the 14.5 SEER range and that probably would include the field install TXV and you paid up thinking your system would be 16 SEER rated?

    You do have a great warranty thou, but you need to register the system to get it.

    The F in CAPF stands for Flowrater piston metering device. Did they at least upgrade to the TXV?

    Believe the Gibson model number you gave is incomplete.
    No, the contractor did tell us that we won't get 16 seer rating unless he changed the furnace but that it was a good idea just for the warranty. The contractor registers everything for us. And all we need for valid 10 year labor is a tuneup once a year.

    Yes I forgot to put the S in the model number. its the SA072-24B1 model.

    I took off the blower door of the Gibson furnace and looked inside. Is it just a matter of switching the cooling fan to the lowest setting? It is currently switched to the highest setting. Is that all that needs to be done, flipping the switch? Can I simply just do that myself?

    Thanks,

    Rich.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    New England
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    I don't know what to tell you on how to change speeds on the Gibson, each Company may be a little different.

    Doesn't sound like they set up the fan speed and who knows if the field finish charge is set to manufacturer spec. or the static pressure across the coil, or ductwork.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
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    Thread Starter
    what do you mean by subcooling. Can I possibly damage something by flipping the switch? Did a little research on newer systems like this gibson you just flip a switch. But will it possibly cause the coil to freeze up if i put it on lowest setting or should it be ok?

    I understand it won't cool as efficiently but right now humidity is more important I can always put fan speed higher in the summer. Its been cool, foggy and rainy in my area for weeks now and house is way too humid at 70%.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    New England
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    Read up on it ( subcooling also superheat ) that is one way to adjust the final field charge, Google the install guide of the outdoor unit it should say how to dial in field charge to manufacturer spec. And what else to check. Did the Installing Contractor follow the install guide as closely as possible? Who know..

    Again I'm not going to comment on flipping switches, especially if you do not know what your doing.

    You have a labor warranty and the system is new, it's the Installing Contractor responsibility to make it right, not you.

    In regards to the Installing Contractor registering your system, that's fine, but I would verify they actually did, unless they printed out the warranty and gave it to you. You can go to Goodman web-site under warranty look up needing serial numbers of pieces.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by Bazooka Joey View Post
    Read up on it ( subcooling also superheat ) that is one way to adjust the final field charge, Google the install guide of the outdoor unit it should say how to dial in field charge to manufacturer spec. And what else to check. Did the Installing Contractor follow the install guide as closely as possible? Who know..

    Again I'm not going to comment on flipping switches, especially if you do not know what your doing.

    You have a labor warranty and the system is new, it's the Installing Contractor responsibility to make it right, not you.

    In regards to the Installing Contractor registering your system, that's fine, but I would verify they actually did, unless they printed out the warranty and gave it to you. You can go to Goodman web-site under warranty look up needing serial numbers of pieces.
    They didn't install the furnace. Just the evaporator coil and condenser.

    The switch has 4 settings for fanspeed. Seems pretty straightforward.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by dan sw fl View Post
    30% Relative Humidity reading ...
    _ _ _ If you are not in the desert, you may need a new hygrometer.
    https://bovedainc.com/store/tobacco/calibration/

    One should not read 100% R.H. Outside, unless there is FOG.
    … or you are in Houston or similar TX, MS, LA, AL region
    … or one is breathing on the instrument

    With a room temperature of 75'F, the Supply Air temperature near the Air Handler
    should consistently be 54'F to 56'F to handle the humidity properly.

    The condensate piping needs to be dripping constantly after operating ~ 8 minutes.
    How much condensate … depends on infiltration (tight or leaky residence) and Your locale.

    ZIP _ _ _ _ _ ?
    as low as 28% RH indoors sometimes this summer if the a/c was running all day. North East US. First HVAC guy I called for a tuneup suggested a humidifier which we declined.

    And yes its been foggy and rainy all week. The 100% RH is according to weather service for my town... My basement and attic are not well insulated, but I do have a dehumidifer in the basement where the ducts are and humidity has been lower down there then upstairs.

    I lowered fan speed to lowest setting. Its cooling super slowly now but RH dropped from 69 to 61%. seems to be stuck there now. Leaving it running overnight and will see if it gets lower. I did order another hygrometer its being delivered tomorrow.

    RH outside is about 77% today.

    I never hear the condensate dripping inside. Definitely not opening that up to check I'll wait for the service guys. Contractor actually took pictures most likely to see if anyone tampers with it I bet. I tried looking at the condensate pump hose, but its hard to tell if any water going through it I definitely don't hear the pump making any noise even if I shake it. But I do feel water when I open the pvc flush valve which I didn't feel before so it does seem like its condensing more now.

    One problem I kept having with the previous gibson would be water all over the floor but I guess the thing was like a dehumidifier lol.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    St. Louis
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    Just have them see if there are lower speed taps available on the blower. The slower the air flow past the coil, the colder the coil and the more it will condense moisture onto it and send it down the drain. You could also experiment by blocking off some of your air intakes if multiple or half of it if there is only one. Take the exiting air temperature before and after, it should be colder when blocking the return(s). Then see if you notice more water is going down the drain.

    However all of that assumes it is charged correctly to begin with, and may need a tweak after adjusting the blower speed down.
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  9. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by hurtinhvac View Post
    Just have them see if there are lower speed taps available on the blower. The slower the air flow past the coil, the colder the coil and the more it will condense moisture onto it and send it down the drain. You could also experiment by blocking off some of your air intakes if multiple or half of it if there is only one. Take the exiting air temperature before and after, it should be colder when blocking the return(s). Then see if you notice more water is going down the drain.

    However all of that assumes it is charged correctly to begin with, and may need a tweak after adjusting the blower speed down.
    ah I see. So even if I restrict air flow or lower blower fan speed the charging will need to be tweaked.

    Well I got the humidity down from 70 to 60. Good enough for now. Before the contractor comes I'll put the fan back to high speed and play dumb. And suggest maybe the fan speed is too high and see what they say and see if they check the condensate line and refrigerant charge.

    Thankyou for the help.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
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    Thread Starter
    Turns out my hygrometer was bad. So embarrassing. The tech guy came out today and suggested I Move my return vent on the wall from floor to the top of wall towards ceiling.


    After he left the new hygrometer and 250 dollar dehumidifier I ordered from Amazon arrived. And low and behold its showing 51% humidity, while the one I had is still showing 66%. Wow.....

    I didn't like the fact the hvac tech had no meter to check humidity and never checked any temperatures. He just checked the pressures on the condenser outside and looked at the return vent.

    The temperature seem to be able to hold steady at 71 degrees. Its 79 outside right now, No sun cloudy. Its cycling on and off about 15 minutes at a time. I assume this is normal?

    I'll have to see what happens with heavy sun. I'm not sure I want to have the guy tear up my wall to put a return vent higher, would that even make a diff? There is two returns a big one on bottom and a small one on top. The top one doesn't provide any suction unless the bottom one is covered. In fact I wonder what that will do to my heating this winter if he removes the bottom one.

    What I plan to do is install an attic vent fan. A ceiling fan in he living room. And solar shades in front of my bay window curtains that get alot of heat. Also having an energy audit done in a couple weeks just to see what they say about leaks in house. Radiant heat from the sun is my biggest problem I believe.

    'm just going to explain to them i was mistaken and my hygrometer was giving me a wrong humidity reading. And I'd rather wait to see how the system works this spring since summer is over. I regret calling them and now I have to try and return this dehumidifer LOL.

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