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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Wine cooler not keeping up

    Self contained ducted wine cooler, WhisperKool 3500 tiR installed two years ago is no longer keeping up, but from all measurements I can get off of it is seems like it is running as well as it can. Access on this is pretty poor so in order to go any further we need to fully remove it, skin it and work on it at our shop which I want to avoid if it truly is working fine. Tech support told me there is a leak but they came to that conclusion after I told them it just isn't keeping up, they never asked for any specific measurements

    design spec
    - Cellar design bottle temp 55
    - 287 ft^3 celler, not air tight or sealed
    - running high fan speed
    - 2688 BTU/hr cooling capacity on high fan speed @ 256 CFM; I will assume they are stating this in terms of total sensible and latent
    - 134a charge
    - temp drop across evap 10 degrees
    - temp rise across condenser 16 degrees

    System vitals
    - room temp: 65
    - bottle temp: 60

    - condenser temp in: 85
    - condenser temp out: 102

    - return dry bulb: 66
    - return wet bulb: 60

    - supply dry bulb: 57
    - supply wet bulb: 51

    - return enthalpy: 26
    - supply enthalpy: 21

    - liquid line temp: 95 (only place I could get LL temp was pretty close to the compressor so this could be artificially high)

    - CFM: averages 210
    - .2 degree temp rise from evap discharge to supply register; within margin of error
    - ductwork insulated and sealed on supply/return and also condenser supply/return
    - 3 90 degree elbows on supply account for the CFM drop

    - bottle thermostat reads 60 degrees
    - bottle temp is 60 degrees

    Sealed system so I cant check pressures and I also can't reach the suction line to get a temp off of that without removing the unit and skinning it.

    Didn't have enough room to use a proper sling physchrometer so had to settle for digital.

    Everything I am reading leads me to believe this is running as designed but I'm skeptical since I can't get everything I would typically want in order to conclude that

    Next step would be to pull it out and bring it to our shop, skin it, install piercing valves and start bench testing.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Central Texas
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    On a sealed system, I look at the Compressor Amp draw and compare to the rated RLA. If you take the LRA and divide by 6, you should get the RLA, if its not provided. Then based on that, you can determine if the system is properly charged. If its drawing 90% or less of the RLA, its low on charge and adding pressure taps are warranted to get the actual pressures. As for Piercing Valves, I stay away from them. I prefer the brazed in service taps, you can pressure test the braze before you pierce the line, then they have a Teflon seal and flare connection to seal it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Thread Starter
    I tried to get RLA on the compressor, but the terminals are on the opposite side of the compressor from what I can get to with the access door and its too small to get my hands in there.
    I agree with braze vs. pierce. the pierce would just be to tap and remove the charge, I would permanently put in braze ports

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Southold, NY
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    Throw it out and get a system that can be worked on!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by pecmsg View Post
    Throw it out and get a system that can be worked on!
    agreed. look at a wine guardian D025. Are you sure it maintained temp previously?

    If you must try to repair, braze on a 1/4 access tube onto the process port (make it accessible from the exterior of the unit), pressure test, recharge to spec.

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