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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
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    Northern CA - Air Quality for New Construction Home

    Hi friends,

    I'm currently doing a full remodel on a home I purchased in Alamo, CA (East Bay Area). The home is going to be relatively small, 1-story (2225 sq/ft).

    I'll be building a completely new HVAC system; with new 5-ton AC/Furnace units and all new duct work (plus new windows, doors, insulation, etc.). I've been also doing a ton of research on indoor air quality...

    I started my research into air purifiers, but also wanted to have a way to bring fresh air into the house. Summer nights are often cool enough here that with outside air being ventilated into the house, I believe we could likely minimize our AC costs in the summer, while bringing in fresh outside air to replace the stale air inside.

    After reading this forum, I've discovered the Ultra-Aire products and am now thinking this is the right direction to go. That said however, based on the moderate climate I live in, I'm wondering how important a dehumidifier really is and whether I should just go with an ERV instead.

    Two, I'd be eager to know if based on my climate, I should also be considering a humidifier as well or would that be overkill?

    Three - does anyone have experience pairing an Ultra-Aire to a smart thermostat like a NEST or EcoBee (also impressed with the new Johnson
    Controls Glas system)...and ensuring the motorized damper works correctly?

    Thoughts or recommendations?

    -Kevin

    PS - Also tracking this Molekule thread which seems really interesting...would love to add the Molekule HVAC whole-house system down the road to work alongside my Ultra-Aire!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    8,663
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    Elevation in coastal CA generally determines the moisture level of the air outside the home. When the outdoor air dew point is <55^F, fresh air ventilation is all that is needed. At sea level, expect +60^F dew points with cool damp air off the water.
    Regardless, an air tight home should have mechanical fresh air for the times the home is closed and occupied.
    This will would do if you are on high ground in western CA.
    If coastal a small whole house Ultra-Air 70H would do well to bring the fresh air, filter and mix plus circulate throughout the home. Thank you for your consideration.
    Keep us posted on your thoughts.
    Regards Teddy Bear
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    5
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by teddy bear View Post
    Elevation in coastal CA generally determines the moisture level of the air outside the home. When the outdoor air dew point is <55^F, fresh air ventilation is all that is needed. At sea level, expect +60^F dew points with cool damp air off the water.
    Regardless, an air tight home should have mechanical fresh air for the times the home is closed and occupied.
    This will would do if you are on high ground in western CA.
    If coastal a small whole house Ultra-Air 70H would do well to bring the fresh air, filter and mix plus circulate throughout the home. Thank you for your consideration.
    Keep us posted on your thoughts.
    Regards Teddy Bear
    So you think the smaller unit would be fine for our home even if the unit is sized for less than 1800 sqft and the home will be 2300? Assuming the smaller size because our climate isn’t that humid?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Sea to Sky
    Posts
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    Who told you that you need 5 tons of cooling for a remodeled 2300 Sq ft house????

    Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
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    Thread Starter
    One of the contractors. Seems like overkill, huh?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    8,663
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevinsf1 View Post
    So you think the smaller unit would be fine for our home even if the unit is sized for less than 1800 sqft and the home will be 2300? Assuming the smaller size because our climate isn’t that humid?
    Yes I do. I assume you are near the water.
    Keep us posted.
    Regards Teddy Bear
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    17
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    I have a 12K BTU AC in a 8x10 foot room I generally find it to be useful and handy on evenings when the sun is blasting the windows. I heard this is oversized for my room

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    SW FL
    Posts
    8,464
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    ACCA MANUAL J

    ~ 2 TON

    ATTACHMENT
    ____________ LOAD CALC 2300 SQ FT
    Designer Dan
    It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with "Some Art". ___ ___ K EEP I T S IMPLE & S INCERE

    Define the Building Envelope and Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows and Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities

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