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Thread: Draft control

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    Draft control

    Outdoor pool heater. Say...15 years old. Raypak P-1287
    Wind, makes setting combustion about impossible. And its basically out of control. The 02 would fluctuate between 15 and 3 , the C0 would correspond although lagging a bit, anywhere from 30 to 2400
    Does a barometric suffice in this case?
    Looks like I'd have to get rid of the top section (draft hood) and fab something?

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    @Jim Davis
    @Rundawg
    @ch4man
    Et al.

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    P-1297 Raypak

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    If it's constant wind, maybe you need a way to stop the wind from hammering it and run some sort of flue pipe (chimney) up high enough where a baro would help.
    If it were me, I'd completely enclose it in a shed, proper clearances of course, combustion air comes in from the side opposite of natural wind, and run a flue pipe w/baro.
    If I do a job in 30 minutes it's because I spent 30 years learning how to do that in 30 minutes. You owe me for the years, not the minutes.

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    But that would make it an outside boiler turned into an inside boiler. I sent a email to the manufacturer asking how they address this. I've never worked on a outside boiler before so this is new for me. Now it's been like this for 15 years and convincing the owner that it is necessary to make a radical change like housing the unit or even just simply doing away with the draft hood and installing a barometric I think there's going to be some eye-rolling. However I would like to know what the code requirements, (at least,) are on this.
    I suspect they are the same as indoor units, seeing as the flue gas from both types goes outside. So less than 400, preferably less than 100.

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    Is there a possibility of conversion to a powered vent?
    It's an upside down world we live in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by David Goodman View Post
    Is there a possibility of conversion to a powered vent?
    That's a cool idea David, you know tho, thinking about it I don't see how any outside , Atmospheric boiler can react fast enough to changes in wind pressure and direction to actually combust at a reasonable level . It just doesn't make sense to me. Maybe that's why the factory hasn't got back to me yet :-)

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    why ya fn with it? 15 yr old pool heater has to be dam near done?

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    Quote Originally Posted by poppa View Post
    why ya fn with it? 15 yr old pool heater has to be dam near done?
    A power vent would likely be an expensive job on a unit that has been suffering from poor venting for so long. The heat exchanger is no doubt heavily corroded if not perferated.
    It's an upside down world we live in.

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    I have never had to deal with an outdoor natural draft boiler, especially one like these.

    I’m not sure it would be worth the time or money to convert it to something more functional, especially at that age and condition.

    I’m all for making natural draft units more efficient and safe with a barometric, but I don’t think it is realistic with this model.

    If it is producing high or unstable levels of CO in its current state, I would shut it down and recommend replacement.

    Maybe if Jim passes by this thread, he can better enlighten you on your options.
    Instead of learning the tricks of the trade, learn the trade.

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    Almost every time I've seen these problems on a Raypak it had to do with the copper exchanger being plugged with debris and combustion products.
    I hope you haven't done this but if not, remove the top and see if the exchanger is clear. These boilers work fine with their natural venting. Even in the worse weather.
    I used to use a water hose and spray the tubes clean. Remove the burners first
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    Quote Originally Posted by hvacker View Post
    Almost every time I've seen these problems on a Raypak it had to do with the copper exchanger being plugged with debris and combustion products.
    I hope you haven't done this but if not, remove the top and see if the exchanger is clear. These boilers work fine with their natural venting. Even in the worse weather.
    I used to use a water hose and spray the tubes clean. Remove the burners first
    Yes its clean.
    When the wind sometimes basically shuts off the draft , how can it do anything but burn poorly? Its like sliding a damper into a flue. Confuses the heck out of the flame

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    Do the best you can with what ya have....

    If you screw with the design, you then become the "manufacturer" and liable....

    Clean burners, spuds, HX combustion chamber. Look at the refractory to see if it is intact and in place. Check manifold pressure to see if it is fluctuating. Regulator ok? Regulator vent open? Is it LP or NG?

    Suggest a replacement!! 15 years is a loooong time for a pool heater!

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