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Thread: Split A/C as air to water heat pump

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    Split A/C as air to water heat pump

    Hi!
    First sorry because my bad english.
    I am from Europe.
    I have one r22 outdoor unit with capacity of 18000 btu.
    I have a water tank.
    I have copper pipe with diameter of 8mm.
    I want to make a heat exchanger coil in tank and connect it to outdoor unit.
    I want to use it also for heating and cooling.
    My question is what length of copper pipe would be good for this project?
    I know that in old inside unit has copper pipe of 6mm diameter about 12 meters.
    But this heat exchanger is made for refrigerant/air. Not for refrigerant/water.
    Thank you!

  2. #2
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    Where are you in Europe?

    What kind of work are you involved with there?

    To use just bare 8mm copper tubing submerged in water as an evaporator will require about 100 meters length. As 8mm would have substantial pressure drop in a single length it would be better to parallel equal-length 8mm tubes. At least six and eight would be better.

    What is the metering device?

    PHM
    --------


    Quote Originally Posted by dark84 View Post
    Hi!
    First sorry because my bad english.
    I am from Europe.
    I have one r22 outdoor unit with capacity of 18000 btu.
    I have a water tank.
    I have copper pipe with diameter of 8mm.
    I want to make a heat exchanger coil in tank and connect it to outdoor unit.
    I want to use it also for heating and cooling.
    My question is what length of copper pipe would be good for this project?
    I know that in old inside unit has copper pipe of 6mm diameter about 12 meters.
    But this heat exchanger is made for refrigerant/air. Not for refrigerant/water.
    Thank you!
    PHM
    --------

    When faced with the choice between changing one's mind, and proving that there is no need to do so, most tend to get busy on the proof.

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    Thread Starter
    I'm living in Serbia.
    I am an electrician in ceramic tiles factory.
    My friend is working as AC unit mounter and serviser. He has tools.
    Some time ago we try this thing with a 8mm copper tube with 30 meters length.
    The factory charging of outdoor unit is 1,3 kg R22 refrigerant.
    But for start we must put 3kg in this configuration and we not have the pressure what we need.
    After this try we stopped with project.
    We not have time.
    But now we want to finish this and i need a help from sizing the exchanger.
    The metering device is a capillary tube what the outdoor unit have originally.
    I want to use this machine for heating and for cooling.

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    The tank is about 120 liters. In the colling/heating system i have around 100 liter water. I cooling/heating with 3 fan coils. When i cool, i need to cool down a water to 18 celsius. When i heat i need to heat up the water to 45 celsius. The pump witch circulate the water from tank is working with 50 liter/minute on the highest speed.

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    I have a friend in Serbia. His name is Nikola. He is married with a small son. He was a scooter/motorcycle mechanic but he became a soldier in the war. During the war I heard from him a few times but not since the war ended.

    30 meters in one length is too long for 8mm copper - there will be too much pressure drop. Also; you will need about 100 meters of 8mm copper for 18,000 BTU's. But the 100 meters will have to be divided into shorter lengths. Eight would be the best.

    I suggest a cap tube for each 12.5 meter length. Feed each 12.5 length of tubing with 228.5cm length of 0.049" internal diameter cap tube.

    PHM
    --------


    Quote Originally Posted by dark84 View Post
    I'm living in Serbia.
    I am an electrician in ceramic tiles factory.
    My friend is working as AC unit mounter and serviser. He has tools.
    Some time ago we try this thing with a 8mm copper tube with 30 meters length.
    The factory charging of outdoor unit is 1,3 kg R22 refrigerant.
    But for start we must put 3kg in this configuration and we not have the pressure what we need.
    After this try we stopped with project.
    We not have time.
    But now we want to finish this and i need a help from sizing the exchanger.
    The metering device is a capillary tube what the outdoor unit have originally.
    I want to use this machine for heating and for cooling.
    PHM
    --------

    When faced with the choice between changing one's mind, and proving that there is no need to do so, most tend to get busy on the proof.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poodle Head Mikey View Post
    I have a friend in Serbia. His name is Nikola. He is married with a small son. He was a scooter/motorcycle mechanic but he became a soldier in the war. During the war I heard from him a few times but not since the war ended.

    30 meters in one length is too long for 8mm copper - there will be too much pressure drop. Also; you will need about 100 meters of 8mm copper for 18,000 BTU's. But the 100 meters will have to be divided into shorter lengths. Eight would be the best.

    I suggest a cap tube for each 12.5 meter length. Feed each 12.5 length of tubing with 228.5cm length of 0.049" internal diameter cap tube.

    PHM
    --------

    I know peoples from my town who going down in Kosovo and never came back... :-(

    Back to the project.
    If i need 100meters of tube, than better to buy a brazed heat exchanger and install it.
    Just carried to use this kind of exchanger because freezing...
    But to buy a tube is lot of money and lot of time to create a spiral and put into tank.
    Thanks for the answers.
    What kind and size of brazed heat exchanger i need to buy?

  7. #7
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    Now there is a damn good reply.


    Quote Originally Posted by Poodle Head Mikey View Post
    I have a friend in Serbia. His name is Nikola. He is married with a small son. He was a scooter/motorcycle mechanic but he became a soldier in the war. During the war I heard from him a few times but not since the war ended.

    30 meters in one length is too long for 8mm copper - there will be too much pressure drop. Also; you will need about 100 meters of 8mm copper for 18,000 BTU's. But the 100 meters will have to be divided into shorter lengths. Eight would be the best.

    I suggest a cap tube for each 12.5 meter length. Feed each 12.5 length of tubing with 228.5cm length of 0.049" internal diameter cap tube.

    PHM
    --------
    I do a triple evac with nitro to remove non condensables.

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    PHM gave good advice for your situation, but I just thought I would mention that R22 is not a good refrigerant for this. If you are simply trying to use a condenser you no longer have use for... go for it. However, if you are looking to design something from scratch R744 is the way to go.

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    i know this thread is 5 months old, but i just saw it now, im curious to know what you've done in the end (dark84)
    I've done this several different ways with varying levels of success, (its currently my only means of heating water in my house) if you're interested in more details, I'm happy to share.

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    I must have missed this before.

    How would these guys go about cobbling together a safe working version of a heat pump using R-744 in their garage or basement?

    PHM
    ---------

    Quote Originally Posted by davidadavis View Post
    PHM gave good advice for your situation, but I just thought I would mention that R22 is not a good refrigerant for this. If you are simply trying to use a condenser you no longer have use for... go for it. However, if you are looking to design something from scratch R744 is the way to go.
    PHM
    --------

    When faced with the choice between changing one's mind, and proving that there is no need to do so, most tend to get busy on the proof.

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    i didn't mean r744, i used a 12000 btu r410 unit mated to 15 meters 3/8" coiled in a 200 liter water tank

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    actually i don't know why davidadavis was discouraging of using an r22 unit, i have, and it worked quite well, in fact, it gets the water hotter at safe pressures, than r410.

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    Did you track the head pressure versus the heated water temperatures?

    How hot does the heated water get?

    How high does the head pressure get?

    PHM
    --------



    Quote Originally Posted by Natmat View Post
    actually i don't know why davidadavis was discouraging of using an r22 unit, i have, and it worked quite well, in fact, it gets the water hotter at safe pressures, than r410.
    PHM
    --------

    When faced with the choice between changing one's mind, and proving that there is no need to do so, most tend to get busy on the proof.

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    (mechanical ) thermostat cuts out at ~55c (130f) and rarely does it run above 600 psi

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    55c (130f) (give or take, thermostat is mechanical and at the bottom of the tank)

    600 or so psi

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    (sorry about the repost, i didn't see it show up)

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    R-22 at 600 psig head?
    I do a triple evac with nitro to remove non condensables.

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    r410, (i don't currently have the r22 system running )

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    i mentioned i tried several different ways with varying levels of success, first i tried making my own coaxial heat exchanger with ~15 meters of 3/8" copper inside a 20 mm pex, next i tried one from Doucette Industry, both worked but need a circulating pump, so now I've made a coil from 3/8" copper, i hand roll it around the cardboard core from pallet wrap, then drill and tap the steel flange-plate found on the bottom of the water tank and seal in the spiral using compression fittings, I'll post pictures of the various things I've mentioned.
    and id like to correct myself, my current system is running at about 400 psi

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    here are the different coaxes, and the final spiral coil
    Attached Images Attached Images    

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