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  1. #1
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    RTAA volts questions

    RTAA070AYH01A3DOB
    COMP model number CHHN035AKJ0R043AHNN

    The unit was installed likely in a totally different site. Later it was removed from a reseller and sold installed. This site I am working for bought it used. Installed currently two years and running. It lost compressor A its locked not grounded or shorted. While ordering new compressor I noticed name tag volts are 200 volts and the compressors are 200 volt too but the line voltage to the unit is 242 volts. Its configured in the service settings to 240 volts. I am wondering if the new compressor should be ordered 200 volts or 240 volts or what challenges may show their ugly head.
    any input or experience will help greatly and is appreciated

  2. #2
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    Should be ordered the same voltage as the one it is replacing.
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  3. #3
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    The eighth digit in the model number is “A” which means this chiller is rated at 200 volts. The voltage utilization range for this chiller is 180-220 volts so your supplied voltage is outside of the range. You have a dilemma now. The voltage supplied to this chiller should match what’s on the name plate. All the wiring, motors, compressors, and settings are sized for 200 volt service. Not sure how to advise what to do.
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  4. #4
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    I would order a 200 volt compressor. If push came to shove, you could install a transformer for the proper voltage. If you have part of the Chiller one way and part the other way then you could be fooked.
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  6. #5
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    sounds like its time to get the electricians involved.

  7. #6
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by jayguy View Post
    I would order a 200 volt compressor. If push came to shove, you could install a transformer for the proper voltage. If you have part of the Chiller one way and part the other way then you could be fooked.
    Definitely. I ordered the 200 volt compressor. Its already running. The consensus is that the machine's parts should stay the original volts as far as when one needs replacement. I picked up the account and found this issue. Apparently this housing complex bought used RTAA's and this mistake is two years old. I came up to machine and found I needed a new compressor. The issue came up when I went to order to compressor.
    The machine UCP2 is configured to run 240 volts which I know does not change the motor ratings. I also backed the current limit to 85% since I observed higher current draw then name tag.

  8. #7
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by jman2794 View Post
    Definitely. I ordered the 200 volt compressor. Its already running. The consensus is that the machine's parts should stay the original volts as far as when one needs replacement. I picked up the account and found this issue. Apparently this housing complex bought used RTAA's and this mistake is two years old. I came up to machine and found I needed a new compressor. The issue came up when I went to order to compressor.
    The machine UCP2 is configured to run 240 volts which I know does not change the motor ratings. I also backed the current limit to 85% since I observed higher current draw then name tag.
    I have asked they install a transformer at minimum on the line side

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jman2794 View Post
    Definitely. I ordered the 200 volt compressor. Its already running. The consensus is that the machine's parts should stay the original volts as far as when one needs replacement. I picked up the account and found this issue. Apparently this housing complex bought used RTAA's and this mistake is two years old. I came up to machine and found I needed a new compressor. The issue came up when I went to order to compressor.
    The machine UCP2 is configured to run 240 volts which I know does not change the motor ratings. I also backed the current limit to 85% since I observed higher current draw then name tag.
    you don’t need to back the current limit down. The chiller has plenty of protection in the controls and they are designed to run 120% of RLA.
    The 2nd most important amendment is to protect the 1st....

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  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by R123 View Post
    you don’t need to back the current limit down. The chiller has plenty of protection in the controls and they are designed to run 120% of RLA.
    I don't know to do it now or raise back up after the labor warranty. Just kidding: you are right.
    If anything I higher volts my current should be less at any RLA%. I just never like seeing wrong voltage yaknow

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