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  1. #118
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    NW Arkansas
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    Thread Starter
    Nope. Actually hired my dad's friends step son to run the machine. Have to wait till tomorrow to finish. Crappy tires and the ground is still wet.

    Have to put concrete patch at the bottom of the wall... They poured it on top of some dirt. The old drain pipe ran along the wall and footer but the footer is irregular and where it runs down (goes under the driveway) is higher than the rest of the footer.

    Not sure how to handle it. I don't have enough money to have clean rock all the way up the wall so I m going to have to have only rock on the bottom. It is moving along though. Will be nice once all this is done.

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  2. #119
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Bay Area California
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    Nice !!

  3. #120
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    Jan 2015
    Location
    Iowa
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    Good job!The big thing is you have preserved the houses value, it will improve the inside qaulity. Keep some pictures as proof for if you ever sell the house.

  4. #121
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Houston, Tx
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    142
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snaple4 View Post
    Nope. Actually hired my dad's friends step son to run the machine. Have to wait till tomorrow to finish. Crappy tires and the ground is still wet.

    Have to put concrete patch at the bottom of the wall... They poured it on top of some dirt. The old drain pipe ran along the wall and footer but the footer is irregular and where it runs down (goes under the driveway) is higher than the rest of the footer.

    Not sure how to handle it. I don't have enough money to have clean rock all the way up the wall so I m going to have to have only rock on the bottom. It is moving along though. Will be nice once all this is done.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
    do you have money for a drainage composite? i admit i have no clue how much it costs, but im guessing less than 5 a square foot?

    i mean schluter ditra is basically a drainage composite without the geotextile ontop... and that iis less than 2 a square from what i recall.

    at least read about drainage composites imho... it would be very good insurance against the waterproofing system failing.

    you would not need a crazy one fwiw... like the composites they use on green roofs. even a small one would help drain the soil above your gravel bet.

  5. #122
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    NW Arkansas
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    Thread Starter
    Not familiar with a drainage composite. Are you able to direct me to what you are referring to? I am using a heavier geotextile fabric to wrap around the gravel. Not sure if they are similar or not.

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  6. #123
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Houston, Tx
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    here.

    note im jsut linking to carslies stuff because im most familiar with them, and they have EXCELLENT documentation on their website.
    check out their technical notes and their detail drawings.

    there are tons of companies making this stuff though, and im assuming its all roughly the same stuff. i know Mapei makes the stuff too.

    https://www.carlisleccw.com/category.aspx?id=176

  7. #124
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Louisburg Kansas
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    Are you going to put some type of flashing where the house meets the concrete wall? From the end view it looks like you have an eight thick concrete foundation with the house set back 4" to make room for brick or rock. Is that correct?

  8. #125
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    NW Arkansas
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by WAYNE3298 View Post
    Are you going to put some type of flashing where the house meets the concrete wall? From the end view it looks like you have an eight thick concrete foundation with the house set back 4" to make room for brick or rock. Is that correct?
    You are talking about where the concrete wall meets the Seder shake siding? Yes, I plan on putting flashing on it. Not sure if I have the money yet. I am WAY over budget so I am starting to see a need to do the must have stuff now and push others down the road :-(
    Quote Originally Posted by queequeg152 View Post
    here.

    note im jsut linking to carslies stuff because im most familiar with them, and they have EXCELLENT documentation on their website.
    check out their technical notes and their detail drawings.

    there are tons of companies making this stuff though, and im assuming its all roughly the same stuff. i know Mapei makes the stuff too.

    https://www.carlisleccw.com/category.aspx?id=176
    Thank you, I will look at it tonight.

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  9. #126
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Louisburg Kansas
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    Water leaks on top of the foundation are almost never big. The bad thing is wood rot. No hurry on the flashing.

  10. #127
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    Sep 2014
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    NW Arkansas
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    Thread Starter
    Got a question. Can I use this stuff below grade ? http://m.homedepot.com/p/R-Tech-1-1-...0817/202532855

    Originally purchased the 2" blue stuff from Dow but it is expensive and I am reading it degrades in R-Value over time...



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  11. #128
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Bay Area California
    Posts
    26,553
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    What?

    No fluorescent vests, hard hats, or safety glasses?

    Have you called OSHA out to that job site yet?


























  12. #129
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Billington Heights, NY
    Posts
    21,625
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snaple4 View Post
    Got a question. Can I use this stuff below grade ? http://m.homedepot.com/p/R-Tech-1-1-...0817/202532855
    It's closed cell. So, yes. The aluminum barrier will degrade. Also, it will deform 10% at 10 psi.

  13. #130
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Houston, Tx
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    142
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snaple4 View Post
    Got a question. Can I use this stuff below grade ? http://m.homedepot.com/p/R-Tech-1-1-...0817/202532855

    Originally purchased the 2" blue stuff from Dow but it is expensive and I am reading it degrades in R-Value over time...



    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
    this is a VERY debatable subject in the "green" home building community, but imo polyiso is not great with respect to ground contact. you really want the blue/pink stuff, XPS(extruded polystyrene.).

    yes EPS looses r value over time, but so does polyiso. infact many if not all types of insulation loose r value with age... cellulose settles, fiberglass batts settle and sag and get trampled etc... spray foam ages too btw.

    problem with polyiso is, its a fair bit more water permeable than EPS... but yes it CAN work, you just need edge sealants on all of the cut faces, and you need to patch all of the cuts in the foil face.

    most of the water will enter polyiso through cuts in the foil facing, and through the ship lap joints which are not faced over.

    ideally you incorporate the foam INTO the waterproofing system, by waterproofing over the insulation. in this case you just bond the insulation to the wall with one of the various pressure jug sprayed contact adhesives. alternativly you can fasten the sheets to the wall with one of the many available piercing insulation anchors and washers, but then that complicates the waterproofing as the insulation anchors and washers disturb the flat face of the insualtion.

    so... how are you proposing to fasten the foam sheets now that you have your waterproofing system in place? and what are you going to do for drainage inbetween the foam and the now waterproofed wall? for sure you would need SOMETHING... maby a heavy felt would work, or a corrugated drainage fabric like they use under rain screen siding... but idk.

    also you need to remember that polyiso foam sheeting needs to be "warm" to be most effective. from what i remember, "warm" is pretty much anything above 40f. lower than that its r value falls off. this is thought to be a result of the blowing agent condensing inside the little microscopic bubbles created when the foam rises. EPS uses diferent blowing agents and does not suffer form this issue.

    i have no idea what the climate is like where you live, but if your ground temp gets very cold, and you keep your basement very cold, you definatly need to go with XPS.

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