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  1. #14
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    Fry master MJCFSD

    Quote Originally Posted by ECtofix View Post
    LOL! So Frymaster's factory and world headquarters is WHERE? In Shreveport!

    Yeah, Church's Chicken uses them, I'm not sure who else. It's mostly due to the cost I'm sure. A lot of Pitco fryers and such, (simple controls, milivolt, standing pilot) in the restaurants and C-stores I service.

    Also, I'm in SE LA and anything above Alexandria is really Arkansas, anyway.

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    A pat on the back is nothing more then topical anesthesia for a knife.

  2. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by r22coolguy View Post
    No, I might have thought that too. Really the pilot staying lit is either the pilot portion of the combination gas valve or the thermopile.

    When the pilot goes out can you re-light it right away? Does it go out after the thermostat has satisfied and the main valve shuts off? Does it always shut off during the initial heat up process? You've proved the thermopile is good, really that just leaves the valve.

    Now, saying that there is something else you need to check: gas pressure. Hook up a manometer and watch the pressure through the entire process. See if the pilot dropping out is a pressure problem or mechanical problem.


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    r22 makes a good point here. The gas pressure is very important, for obvious reasons. One thing to note, the pilot side of the valve comes from the supply pressure, not the regulated side.


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  3. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by r22coolguy View Post
    Yes, but every hi-limit that I have seen on a fryer is Mechanical and needs to be reset. Since he didn't know there was one, nor has he reset anything I can assume that it's not tripping the hi-limit.


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    As far as intermittent pilot outages on millivolt fryers (I don't think jman's problem is intermittent) my very first step is to test the hi-limit. They are a snap disc type of contact, as ECtofix already said, and any bit of jostling can make the contacts momentarily separate and the pilot will drop out. And all the while the manual reset did not trip. I've watched cooks bang a fry basket on the fryer or kick a door shut and the pilot drops out. Next time your on one tap it with your screw driver. Betchya is opens the limit without tripping it (manual reset).

    One way to test them is to check the ohms across the contacts and or the millivolt drop across them.


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  4. #17
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    I just got my Frymaster book back from my last trainey and it so happens to be handy. Here's some info on how to test their millivolt fryers.





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  5. #18
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    Sep 2007
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    The main gas goes off the same time the pilot does?
    UA Local 32

  6. #19
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    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by buford View Post
    The main gas goes off the same time the pilot does?
    Of course. The pilot safety valve comes before the main valve in the gas train.

    Here's the standard components inside a combination valve. The one flaw in this illustration is that PILOT gas is ALSO cut off by the safety shut-off valve. As VanMan812 had stated, pilot gas supply does come before the internal regulator:
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° °

    "You never know what others don't know." -

    If I can't laugh at myself...then I'll laugh at YOU! -

  7. #20
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    My thinking was maybe the main valve being closed by the t-stat was sucking the pilot flame off the pilot.
    UA Local 32

  8. #21
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by buford View Post
    My thinking was maybe the main valve being closed by the t-stat was sucking the pilot flame off the pilot.
    i can check that too

  9. #22
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    Thread Starter
    First off I want to thank every one for the help. The manuals, the pictures, and the tech tips. This place ia full of unselfishness; never fails.

    The cooks say after I left the oil warmed up and they cooked some than it shut off they've had to relight the appliance pilot several times in the time since thermopile replacement Last Friday ( 2 days ago)..
    Prior to repair it would always shut off or extinguish the pilot after the oil would get hot. In other words cold start no problem, once the oil got hot the pilot would shut down and not stay lit when reattempting to start according to cooks. My first intuition was replace the thermopile it was also the most recognizable part to me. As i was installing the thermopile I saw the limit wirng could break the pilot circuit the manuals and your input confirm this. Sounds like Hi limit
    Now I have things to look at when I get there today and will update.

  10. #23
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    Thread Starter
    I will be checking the thermostat against the oil temperature. Since the limit may be doing its job

  11. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by buford View Post
    My thinking was maybe the main valve being closed by the t-stat was sucking the pilot flame off the pilot.
    If there's an issue with the pilot burner, that's certainly a possibility. Crud buildup inside it - around the pilot orifice - can cause a poor, weak flame.

    Then again, there could be several other possibilities. For instance:

    • If the fryer is connected to gas by a flexible gas hose with quick-disconnect...and if the quick-disconnect isn't fully seated but allowing SOME gas through, it may starve the pilot when the main burner comes on. That could cause a slow drop in thermopile output - enough so to cause the combination valve to lock out.
    • Could be it has a line gas pressure regulator (in addition to the combination valve's internal regulator) that's not regulating (due to maybe a clogged air vent), thereby affecting overall gas pressure. Once again, that will starve the pilot to a point that thermopile output drops.


    To figure this one out jman2794, you should be there to watch it as the pilot drops out.
    • Stay abreast of the actual oil temperature near the thermostat and high-limit.
    • Monitor the thermopile circuit with your DC voltmeter.
    • Check for any voltage drops in that circuit - like ones caused by a faulty, cruddy connection or a failing high-limit. Voltage drops in a millivolt circuit can be significant, since a fraction-of-a-volt isn't strong enough to punch its way through funk in a wire terminal or high-limit contacts that are weak.
    • Monitor DC voltage across the terminals supplying the pilot solenoid. Monitor voltage from the thermopile to see if it's slowly dropping when the main burner is on.


    I could go on. These (and the things mentioned by others here) are just some rudimentary tests to do on ANY millivolt fryer. I know you HVAC guys don't get to play with these basic systems very often. The closest you might come to them is an occasional gas water heater.

    Millivolt systems are so straight-forward and simple that they can be intimidating.





    Here's a video of a bench test I did on one of those fryer's burner system...just for the fun of it:


    ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° °

    "You never know what others don't know." -

    If I can't laugh at myself...then I'll laugh at YOU! -

  12. Likes HeatenCoolair liked this post
  13. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by ECtofix View Post
    If there's an issue with the pilot burner, that's certainly a possibility. Crud buildup inside it - around the pilot orifice - can cause a poor, weak flame.

    Then again, there could be several other possibilities. For instance:

    • If the fryer is connected to gas by a flexible gas hose with quick-disconnect...and if the quick-disconnect isn't fully seated but allowing SOME gas through, it may starve the pilot when the main burner comes on. That could cause a slow drop in thermopile output - enough so to cause the combination valve to lock out.
    • Could be it has a line gas pressure regulator (in addition to the combination valve's internal regulator) that's not regulating (due to maybe a clogged air vent), thereby affecting overall gas pressure. Once again, that will starve the pilot to a point that thermopile output drops.


    To figure this one out jman2794, you should be there to watch it as the pilot drops out.
    • Stay abreast of the actual oil temperature near the thermostat and high-limit.
    • Monitor the thermopile circuit with your DC voltmeter.
    • Check for any voltage drops in that circuit - like ones caused by a faulty, cruddy connection or a failing high-limit. Voltage drops in a millivolt circuit can be significant, since a fraction-of-a-volt isn't strong enough to punch its way through funk in a wire terminal or high-limit contacts that are weak.
    • Monitor DC voltage across the terminals supplying the pilot solenoid. Monitor voltage from the thermopile to see if it's slowly dropping when the main burner is on.


    I could go on. These (and the things mentioned by others here) are just some rudimentary tests to do on ANY millivolt fryer. I know you HVAC guys don't get to play with these basic systems very often. The closest you might come to them is an occasional gas water heater.

    Millivolt systems are so straight-forward and simple that they can be intimidating.





    Here's a video of a bench test I did on one of those fryer's burner system...just for the fun of it:


    well EVEN when someone does school me on the system its not used often so I forget. \
    I have definitely been schooled here. Thanks to everyone

    here is what i found
    thermostat dial is connected to a two wire sensing element in the well of the fryer tank. The actual dial is just that only a dial: the well holds what looks to bea two wire sensor that has a rotating indicator that is hooked to the temperature dial on the front of the fryer through a flexible shaft. The entire system is a simple milivolt system ( i know thanks the info in this post). The setting on dial is 320 and the oil temp is 400 and still burning gas until it trips i lower the thermostat to the lowest setting does it turn off but by than the differential betwenn set point and actual is well over 100 degrees. or at times the gas valve will open if I tap the sensor for temperature control> I read the manual and as it and several people have said the limit (auto reset) will open at about 415 degrees.

  14. #26
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    From your description, this thermostat is stuck closed.

    For example, at a set point of 200, does the fryer continue to heat until the high limit opens?

    With the fryer warmed up (less than high limit cut off) and oil temperature verified with a probe, turn off gas supply, disconnect thermostat wires from gas valve and verify with a ohm meter that the thermostat contacts open and close in relation to set point and actual oil temperature. This will show if thermostat is cycling.

    Let us know what you find please.



    Quote Originally Posted by jman2794 View Post
    well EVEN when someone does school me on the system its not used often so I forget. \
    I have definitely been schooled here. Thanks to everyone

    here is what i found
    thermostat dial is connected to a two wire sensing element in the well of the fryer tank. The actual dial is just that only a dial: the well holds what looks to bea two wire sensor that has a rotating indicator that is hooked to the temperature dial on the front of the fryer through a flexible shaft. The entire system is a simple milivolt system ( i know thanks the info in this post). The setting on dial is 320 and the oil temp is 400 and still burning gas until it trips i lower the thermostat to the lowest setting does it turn off but by than the differential betwenn set point and actual is well over 100 degrees. or at times the gas valve will open if I tap the sensor for temperature control> I read the manual and as it and several people have said the limit (auto reset) will open at about 415 degrees.

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