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Originally Posted by
itsiceman
The adjustments are still confusing to me so I've been using Auto for now.
One thing I was thinking about was something to plug into or a switch to mute the speaker.
Plug in headphones will mute the beeps
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Was thinking maybe something smaller/simpler. There is already too much crap to tuck away under the cover and would make this thing even less portable.
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I put a piece of electrical tape over the grill for the speaker. Seems to deaden the sound enough to be tolerable.
Originally Posted by
itsiceman
The adjustments are still confusing to me so I've been using Auto for now.
One thing I was thinking about was something to plug into or a switch to mute the speaker.
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If the Pro only came out a year or so ago, then I can promise you that my boss dude did not buy one 20 years ago, LOL. Can't remember exactly when he bought it or why, but I'm thinking it was to detect HFC refrigerants. Bottom line is that it didn't worth a diddly squat.
Just Googled the PM; near as I can remember, that's what it looked like. But I only had it in my hands a few times. Like I said, it wasn't good for anything, so it sat in a cabinet in the shop for the rest of eternity.
Originally Posted by
Brian8383
Maybe that was the PM and not the Pro? I think the Pro came out a year or so ago.
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Originally Posted by
BBeerme
If the Pro only came out a year or so ago, then I can promise you that my boss dude did not buy one 20 years ago, LOL. Can't remember exactly when he bought it or why, but I'm thinking it was to detect HFC refrigerants. Bottom line is that it didn't worth a diddly squat.
Just Googled the PM; near as I can remember, that's what it looked like. But I only had it in my hands a few times. Like I said, it wasn't good for anything, so it sat in a cabinet in the shop for the rest of eternity.
Yeah, they look very similar. I owned a PM. I wasn't a fan. The battery sucked. It was always dead even after replacing it. It didn't hold a charge for more than a couple weeks. And you couldnt just plug it in and use it. The power supply didn't output enough current for it to work plugged in until it charged for a while. There was an optional power supply you could buy to make it work plugged in with a low or dead battery, but it just wasn't worth it. I had(and still have) a plug in H10. There is also the option to use a battery tender and leave it plugged in in the truck. But then you are looking at a inverter and the battery tender and then possibly dead truck battery on those cold Monday mornings.
That's why I can't figure out why they didn't make a 18650 battery pack for the new Pro model. They stuck with the lead acid battery. I just don't get it. What a simple upgrade it would have been and a great selling feature it would have been.
[B][SIZE=2] CENTER]I no longer identify as a conspiracy theorist. You may now refer to me as That guy that was always right.
What one generation tolerates, the next generation will embrace.
― Definitely said by John Wesley
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Originally Posted by
BBeerme
If the Pro only came out a year or so ago, then I can promise you that my boss dude did not buy one 20 years ago, LOL. Can't remember exactly when he bought it or why, but I'm thinking it was to detect HFC refrigerants. Bottom line is that it didn't worth a diddly squat.
Just Googled the PM; near as I can remember, that's what it looked like. But I only had it in my hands a few times. Like I said, it wasn't good for anything, so it sat in a cabinet in the shop for the rest of eternity.
There is definitely a learning curve to h10pro. I didn't think it worked that well when I got it. Used in auto and picked up 22 ok. Wouldn't pick up 410a at all. Then I learned how to use it. Watched some YouTube videos. Only use manual now. And run the sensor hotter. I'm gone through 2 summers of use and battery life has been good enough . I only charge it every couple weeks or so when I'm using it often. Now I find even tiny leaks. Definitely worth getting the extension probe for it. Helps to reach back side of evaporator coils.
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Heh heh, yeah, using an H-10 does take a bit of a different feel.
Once I show guys how to use it, they are golden.
Originally Posted by
kra2y
There is definitely a learning curve to h10pro. I didn't think it worked that well when I got it. Used in auto and picked up 22 ok. Wouldn't pick up 410a at all. Then I learned how to use it. Watched some YouTube videos. Only use manual now. And run the sensor hotter. I'm gone through 2 summers of use and battery life has been good enough . I only charge it every couple weeks or so when I'm using it often. Now I find even tiny leaks. Definitely worth getting the extension probe for it. Helps to reach back side of evaporator coils.
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I've never used a pro or pm, just the old plug in one. Manual mode is the only option. If there's a leak that detector will find it, no matter how small.
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In my experience, where the H-10 Universal fails is on large leaks.
Like in a walk in that is filled with refrigerant. That's when you need something else.
Originally Posted by
Red Man
I've never used a pro or pm, just the old plug in one. Manual mode is the only option. If there's a leak that detector will find it, no matter how small.
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Originally Posted by
BBeerme
In my experience, where the H-10 Universal fails is on large leaks.
Like in a walk in that is filled with refrigerant. That's when you need something else.
I've had no problem. Had one last week. Detector goes off as soon as I open the door. Just adjust the sensitivity. Found leaks on turn bends on two out of four evaps. I suppose if it was literally filled with refrigerant, that would be a problem. But if that's the case, you shouldn't be in there anyways.
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Originally Posted by
kra2y
There is definitely a learning curve to h10pro. I didn't think it worked that well when I got it. Used in auto and picked up 22 ok. Wouldn't pick up 410a at all. Then I learned how to use it. Watched some YouTube videos. Only use manual now. And run the sensor hotter. I'm gone through 2 summers of use and battery life has been good enough . I only charge it every couple weeks or so when I'm using it often. Now I find even tiny leaks. Definitely worth getting the extension probe for it. Helps to reach back side of evaporator coils.
This .....
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One of the great things about the H-10 is its sensitivity.
You can only de-tune the H-10 to a limit that it won't detect anything. Which is where it fails. Like even a small leak in a walk-in.
Been there, done that, got the tee shirt. At that point, you're dealing with soap bubbles or an ultrasonic.
Or maybe some cheaper leak detector that I have no experience with. Just sayin'.
Originally Posted by
Red Man
I've had no problem. Had one last week. Detector goes off as soon as I open the door. Just adjust the sensitivity. Found leaks on turn bends on two out of four evaps. I suppose if it was literally filled with refrigerant, that would be a problem. But if that's the case, you shouldn't be in there anyways.
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Originally Posted by
BBeerme
One of the great things about the H-10 is its sensitivity.
You can only de-tune the H-10 to a limit that it won't detect anything. Which is where it fails. Like even a small leak in a walk-in.
Been there, done that, got the tee shirt. At that point, you're dealing with soap bubbles or an ultrasonic.
Or maybe some cheaper leak detector that I have no experience with. Just sayin'.
On the large leak setting, with the sensitivity turned all the way down, mine is not very sensitive. If the leak was too big for my H-10, I'd probably be able to see it, or be passed out from lack of oxygen.
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h-10 is a very good detector also the Bacharach informant 2. The best but cost prohibitive is the Bacharach PGM-IR it is absolutely the king of them all finds leaks down to 10ppm in supermarket cases in operation.
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Isn't auto mode perfect for a leak in a space with a high concentration?
Mine (Pro) says it auto zeros and why you can't hover searching in that mode.
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H10 only leak detector I've bought and I've found every leak so far with it
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I've never passed out due to a large leak in a walk in, but I have had leaks that filled up a walk in to the point that even de-tuning the H-10 proved fruitless. Usually there will be oil at that point. So squirting on some de-greaser, washing it down, then returning to look for oil has usually been my course of action. Of course, in the mean time, a quote is worked up for replacing the evap.
Problem with large leaks is that soap bubbles won't even work.
Originally Posted by
Red Man
On the large leak setting, with the sensitivity turned all the way down, mine is not very sensitive. If the leak was too big for my H-10, I'd probably be able to see it, or be passed out from lack of oxygen.
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Originally Posted by
BBeerme
I've never passed out due to a large leak in a walk in, but I have had leaks that filled up a walk in to the point that even de-tuning the H-10 proved fruitless. Usually there will be oil at that point. So squirting on some de-greaser, washing it down, then returning to look for oil has usually been my course of action. Of course, in the mean time, a quote is worked up for replacing the evap.
Problem with large leaks is that soap bubbles won't even work.
Usually I can hear leaks that are too big for soap or the H-10. If I can't see it, I just move my hand over the piping until the noise changes.
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When I was starting out I had one time I didn't pass out but felt my face starting to go numb and got out of there.
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My Apple Trash is good for something lol
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