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  1. #53
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Midwest
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    43
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSanchez214 View Post
    Yes! I currently have my AC at 75. Used to have it at 76/77 and now my wife is dying of coldness at 75! LoL. And the lowest humidity number I've seen was 53% indoors but I'm not 100% what the outdoor temp/humidity was. =/
    Ok, if your wife was cold at 75 and 53% RH was she comfortable at 76/77? At my house, as long as my wife is happy, I don't care what the numbers are lol

  2. #54
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    27
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by ChillerTech74 View Post
    Ok, if your wife was cold at 75 and 53% RH was she comfortable at 76/77? At my house, as long as my wife is happy, I don't care what the numbers are lol
    Lmaoooo!!!! I totally see your point. My wife loved 76/77 but what concerned me was my humidity in the low 60s. That's when I hear mold growth starts.

  3. #55
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    1
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    I'm having the same issues. did any of these pointers help?

  4. #56
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    9,765
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSanchez214 View Post
    Lmaoooo!!!! I totally see your point. My wife loved 76/77 but what concerned me was my humidity in the low 60s. That's when I hear mold growth starts.
    I reviewed your posts.
    The story goes on. Keep in mind that shot cooling cycles less than 20 mins. with a dry coil will not remove any moisture. It takes 20-30 mins. to load the coiling coil/pan with moisture to the point where moisture goes down the drain. The moisture left on the coil re-evaporates back to the home in 1 hour when the compressor is off. During repeating on/off cycles of shorter length, limited dehumidification takes place. 20 mins. on/off should remove some moisture.
    I would encourage the lowest fan speed possible without freezing the coil. Expect 50-55^F +75%rh supply air temps at the close supply vents with 75^F, 55%RH return air, same as room air. Short term, do no worry about the condensation on the ducts.
    After several hours continuous operation during peak cooling loads, expect approaching 50%RH. If not, start looking for duct leakage on the supply/return ducts. You may find a big air leak in the attic.
    Adding dehumidifiers to a warm coil a/c will not get you low humidity during high cooling loads. Dehumidifiers will be needed to maintain low humidity during low/no cooling loads and high outdoor dew point, +60^F.
    You may need an Ultra-Aire 70 H on each a/c with a good setup.
    Glad to talk to your a/c tech on the phone.
    Keep us posted.
    Regards Teddy Bear
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  5. #57
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    11
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    It is actually caused by the poor insulation of the windows and doors. Energy star windows can reduce the condensation, you could either get those or increase the ventilation. Here are some tips you could follow to reduce the humidity (http://www.ontariowindowreviews.com/...humidity-home/).

  6. #58
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    St. Louis
    Posts
    1,269
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    The way the flex duct is installed (sad) with a pocket thermometer with a 5" long 1/8" diameter shaft, measure temps at all return air grills (in the grill) then at the return of the unit (if its flex just poke a hole in it). Do this when outside temp is 10* or better outside. See how much difference there is between RA and OA. If their not close you have a lot of infiltration. Duct leakage.

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