One additional comment:
I really can't tell how open the dampers are. All I can do is go back up stairs and see if air is coming out of a vent. Or if on stage 2, that the ducts are full to bursting.
Is there anyway to verify the damper position?
We have a Water Furnace with an Intellizone 4 with 3 zones setup. It was installed in 2009 and has been running fine except for one issue.
It seems that after a power blip that when the system resets it does not get reset the dampers. Often the furnace fan is blowing and the ducts are inflating, but no air is coming out into the house. Sometime only one zone is not working.
I opened the covers on the dampers and found one was gunked with grease that was very stiff and preventing it from spinning freely. But the others seem clear. They seem to get fairly hot when operating. I cleaned the grease and gunk out of the aluminum cover and reinstalled it, making sure it was not squeezing the spinner. But is still seems that after stormy weather where we get a power blip or two that I need to shut everything off, wait 20 seconds, and turn it back on. Sometimes I have to repeat that twice.
Do I need to replace the damper servos? How to best fix this issue?
One additional comment:
I really can't tell how open the dampers are. All I can do is go back up stairs and see if air is coming out of a vent. Or if on stage 2, that the ducts are full to bursting.
Is there anyway to verify the damper position?
The dampers axle should have a "mark" on it's end. If the mark is parallel with the duct, it is open. If it's perpendicular, it's closed.
Per site rules, we aren't able to give DIY advice. I don't know the specifics of your system but I can tell you that most commonly, dampers are either powered fully open or powered fully closed, one or the other. Typical zone systems don't vary the damper position.
In most all cases, the damper should only be open if it's corresponding thermostat is actively calling for cooling (or heat) and not in a "Time Delay" mode. Time delays are activated by power outages and last around five minutes.
I noticed the Honeywell damper controllers go insane when ...
The thermostat has no ground wire to complete a power circuit. (needs batteries)
When the batteries get low (or like a Next t-stat) the stat tries to get power from the system but the method is uses to rob power drives a controller mad.
Check batteries. Make sure the thermostat is powered.
Economy - Quality - Speed <---- pick two
This is a fairly common problem wit the Intellizone system, the best cure we have found is to replace the power open power close dampers with the 2wire spring open power close
dampers and set the zone system for 2 wire dampers