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  1. #1
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    Glastender GT24 or GT30 bar glass washer

    Sort of a poll question on these for you field techs.

    Have any of you ever encountered or been called upon to repair a GT24 or GT30 when the issue was that the wash tank heating element wouldn’t turn off – even after the tank was drained and the FILL switch was turned off?
    ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° °

    "You never know what others don't know." -

    If I can't laugh at myself...then I'll laugh at YOU! -

  2. #2
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    I guess nobody deals with bar glass washers much like I do. So, I'll just forget the poll and make this an announcement.

    THIS IS IMPORTANT, so please read this throughly:

    Here's the warewasher I am referring to:



    There's also a slightly larger GT-30, to which this also applies.

    By design, these machines run an uninterrupted cleaning cycle by using a carousel type of rotating rack. They can potentially run endlessly all day, with only the interruptions of a stop bar which serves to prevent wares from riding through the washer over and over again. By removing the cleaned glasses, the stop bar returns home and the machine continues on.

    The wash (and rinse) section uses a recirculating pump to keep the cycle going. The wash water is maintained at a set temp somewhere above 125°F by using a thermostat which energizes a 4000 watt heating element. The machine chemically sanitizes, so there's no need for the rinse water to be heated. The thermostat controls a small contactor (or relay...if you will) for energizing that heating element.
    Up until recently, here were the choice of contactors that power that element:


    The left-hand one is rated to 25 amp. The right-hand is rate at 30 amps. Note their difference in size and design. The left one has much smaller contact points in it (not visible in this picture) and a much weaker return spring than to right one has (which BOTH are visible).

    Up until sometime in 2010 (or maybe later), both of these contactors were listed in the parts manual and available as replacement parts. The manual distinguished which one to use based upon the serial number of the machine.

    HERE'S THE REALLY IMPORTANT PART:

    That contactor on the LEFT (which, to ME...only qualifies as just a relay), can stick CLOSED. If it does, then the element remains energized DESPITE the thermostat -OR- DESPITE the FILL switch - which serves as the power switch for the machine. There is NO redundant hi-limit thermostat circuit to disable the element in the event of a main operating circuit failure. So...all that stands between the 4 kw element and a 208v power source is that contactor.

    Why am I sharing this?

    There's eleven of these units on the property I work at. Since 2012, four of these units went into a runaway heat mode. Two were caught by the user. They called them in and we in our kitchen maintenance shop came to the rescue.

    The other two? One self-destructed. The water boiled off, then the machine's innards melted down (curtains, wiring, anything plastic). Nothing was on top of the unit or in proximity to it that caused anything else to be damaged.

    The latest wasn't so sublime. The event ended up being videoed by the security cameras. Nobody around. Employees had all gone home. The washer glowed RED from within and caught fire at around 2am. The glass washer so happened to have those black rubbery, stand-off-like drying mats on top of its canopy -with clean glasses set upon them to air dry. Those rubber mats caught fire.

    It could've been worse. Thankfully it wasn't. The fire was just a few feet high. Lotsa smoke damage to the ceiling. Nearby stuff (the bar, nearby fountain lines, etc.) got damaged.
    The venue was closed for a week while a restoration company was contracted to come and do their thing. Our in-house guys worked their magic (carpenters and painters) by repairing the damaged bar, ceiling and got everything freshened back up again.

    AND...SO - WHAT TO DO with this:

    Well THANKFULLY, that substandard contactor can't be gotten any longer thru Glastender. Miraculously, it's disappeared as an available replacement part for their machines anywhere on the internet. Only the right-hand contactor in the picture is available - albeit, by using a newer part number than what's in a 2010 parts manual.

    Otherwise...if that left-hand contactor is collecting dust on your truck or on a warehouse shelf, get rid of it. If your company remains up-to-date on parts stock, that's probably not a problem.

    If that contacot is still at work inside of a unit somewhere, therein lies the problem.

    If you're a technician and happen to be called to work on a GT-24 or GT30 and your eagle-eyes spy upon a rectangular & enclosed grayish relay in there for energizing the heating element, INSIST to your customer that it needs replaced IMMEDIATELY.

    If you're an owner/operator/employee and happen to have one of these machine, then I strongly urge you to call a service company to have it checked out. Show them a copy of this post.



    NOTE: There's NO inherent defect with that actual relay (YES...I'm calling it a relay now). Its manufacturer makes good stuff and that relay can probably still be purchased for other applications. However, it's simply not suited for how it was employed within this glass washer...which is evident now that somebody who designed the machine has figured that out.

    FYI: This only applies to the GT-24 and GT-30 models.

    The GT-18 and the GW24 models don't have a heating element. Those units are fine machines. Well made and reliable. For that matter, we'd just purchased four of those units within the past year since we found them far superior to a competitor's model that we needed to replace.
    The GT-24/30 units are also good machines - with this ONE major exception that I've outlined here in this post.
    ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° °

    "You never know what others don't know." -

    If I can't laugh at myself...then I'll laugh at YOU! -

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  4. #3
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    good stuff ,thanks for the post. i have just joined the forum. i currently work at a casino that has several glass tenders model gw24 that were in charge of.
    im having an issue now with that model not receiving enough water to properly operate, have cleaned and rebuilt solenoids ,checked supply lines and hoses, to no avail.

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by EowBrett View Post
    im having an issue now with that model not receiving enough water to properly operate, have cleaned and rebuilt solenoids ,checked supply lines and hoses, to no avail.
    I've never fooled with trying to rebuild those solenoid valves. I don't even think there's a rebuild kit for them. They're cheap, plastic-bodied valves that are inexpensive to just simply replace.

    http://www.partstown.com/glastender/gla01000561

    Not enough water to operate? One or both tanks?
    There's a separate valve for each of the two tanks. In my experience, poor water flow coming into one tank prompts me to replace that valve. I've never had both valves fail simultaneously, but it could happen I suppose.

    Have you checked water pressure to the machine? Is the water coming from a water softening system?
    If I remember correctly, dynamic pressure (taken while machine is filling) should be in the 25-80 psi range. If pressure drops below 25 psi, then there's probably an issue with the water softening system that restricting water flow.
    ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° °

    "You never know what others don't know." -

    If I can't laugh at myself...then I'll laugh at YOU! -

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  7. #5
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    The exact reason if i had a bar with one of those units the power to the unit would be cut at close and water level checked every 2 hours
    the place i worked servicing appliances we had it wired so when we closed the service room had NO power to it except the ceiling lights.

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  9. #6
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    thanks for the reply ecto, but no water softening system, and that is a whole other issue:}
    my senior engineer told me that theres a therm couple on the incoming hot water line and if water doesn't get hot enough the the drain stopper solenoid will hold off and not close, therefore water is running straight down the drain.

  10. #7
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    thanks again guys for the response every little bit helps!!!

  11. #8
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    OK update on gw24 glass tender:

    the blue valve bodys are not typical!!!!
    one is hot and one is cold if you switch them by accident the unit will not fill properly!!!!
    they look identical but trust me there not.
    so problem is fixed!! thanks again for the guidance gentlemen

  12. #9
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by EowBrett View Post
    OK update on gw24 glass tender:

    the blue valve bodys are not typical!!!!
    one is hot and one is cold if you switch them by accident the unit will not fill properly!!!!
    they look identical but trust me there not.
    so problem is fixed!! thanks again for the guidance gentlemen
    HA! I just realized your initial question was about a GW24 and I was thinking GT24 in my response (#4 in this thread). Oh well...

    Thanks for the update. However, the parts manual only shows one part number for a fill valve (water inlet valve p/n 01000561), so I fail to see how they're different.

    Enlighten me, please.
    ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° °

    "You never know what others don't know." -

    If I can't laugh at myself...then I'll laugh at YOU! -

  13. #10
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    really only one part #?? hmmmm
    i tell you what i found Ecto, is one blue body solenoid has a small rubber gasket under this plastic thinghy, like a venturi or some kind of diffuser.
    anyway it has two very small holes in the rubber like an 1/8' dia
    the other has a rubber gasket but it has a large hole like1/4' dia
    if i could post pics i would

  14. #11
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    i would love to get my hands on a {technical manual} for the gw24's
    we have four of them on the boat

  15. #12
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    ecto you are right, not that didn't believe you:} anyway what has happened in the past solenoids from ice machines and dishwashers have been in same bin on our site and have gotten mixed up!! so definitely an internal company issue and not one with the unit itself.
    so the little rubber piece i was telling you about with the small diameter hole is designed for the ice machine.
    so, as this has unraveled it has been an education getting a better understanding of how the glass tender works, really quiet simple. so the moral of this story was operator error. loose nut behind the wheel as my dad used to say. lol

  16. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by EowBrett View Post
    ecto you are right, not that didn't believe you:} anyway what has happened in the past solenoids from ice machines and dishwashers have been in same bin on our site and have gotten mixed up!! so definitely an internal company issue and not one with the unit itself.
    so the little rubber piece i was telling you about with the small diameter hole is designed for the ice machine.
    Well, you are indeed correct about the valves for ice machines appearing identical to the ones for that glass washer. I noticed that in our own warehouse awhile back.

    Yup, your experience (and persistence on the issue) demonstrates that there's a good reason for identifying replacement parts only by OEM part number.

    Situations like yours usually arise when there's a need to get equipment up and running quickly, which sends us hunting for something that will work when the OEM part we need isn't immediately available. 90% of the time, it all works out. Then there's that 10% of the time when it creates new issues that can confound an unknowing tech.
    ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° °

    "You never know what others don't know." -

    If I can't laugh at myself...then I'll laugh at YOU! -

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