Regular Guest
What Would a Pro Do ? - High Efficiency Change Out in Middle Of Winter w/Snow on the Roof ?
Dear friends,
Please lend me your learned opinions. My furnace is dying - the furnace guy who was performing a tuneup showed me the "piccolo tubes" for the forced air furnace which no longer had holes - but were corroded into long slots - IE the burner is shot .. So it is new furnace time ..Problem is - it is a question between a high efficiency furnace and an 80% furnace that can use the existing 4" flue-pipe.
It is the middle of winter and there is snow on the roof. The house is a 1 story rambler with a 2-12 low pitch roof with torch-down rolled roofing .. The furnace is located in the garage and the roof sheeting is literally 8 feet above the furnace - where the hole for the plastic pipe would be 6" from the roof crown/ridge. The furnace guy said he cant run the plastic out the sidewall of the garage because of the soffet vent that extends along the side of the house - extending across the garage and the attick crawl space above the homes living space. IE Didnt want to put the exhaust vent for the furnace near the attic vent - and the house has a 1 1/2 over hang which would trap the gasses or something ,,.
QUESTION: The furnace guy said he was concerned about "breaching" a roof in the middle of winter because no adhesives or calks would cure unless it was atleast 40 degrees out. What do you think is prudent ? He said he could do a temporary vent seal thing as best he could - but coundlnt guarantee it until he could finish the seal job when things warm up. The problem is that this is torch down - a rolled asphalt product and not 3 tab - it is like poking a hole in a membrane - rather than tiered roofing . Any ideas would be appreciated - it is more for my expectations as to what I should expect given these facts ..
On the other hand I could have him put in an 80& 2 stage & be done with it ,,. but he said the $$ of gas will rise & thus the value of the high efficiency .. regardless of the interveening hassle .. any ideas would be appreciated ! Regards,
Professional Member*
Just do the 80% furnace. It will be more efficent then what you have with none of the problems. I would also consider doing a heat pump if you aren't already going that rought. The difference between the 80 and the 90 Isn't so astronomical especially when faced with all the obsticals.
Professional Member*
is the furnace the only thing in the 4" b vent??
he could TEMPORARILY run the pvc up thru the b vent then redo it after it warms up outside.....
AOP Committee/Professional Member*
On a temp basis, run a concentric vent out past the overhang. One way or another, I'd find a way to get a 95% in there.
A good HVAC tech knows how, an educated HVAC tech knows why!
DEM
God Speed, Jim. We'll miss you - 2-26-23
As 527 said.
Run the PVC throught the B vent if you don't have a water heater using it also.
And a 90plus is worth the trouble.
Unless you really think gas prices are going to be cheaper 10 years down the road.
AOP Committee/Professional Member*
Pick a sunny day, sweep off the roof and torch down a cone flashing. We do roof penetrations all winter, we're even better than the post office, although every once in a while some of my customers make me want to go postal............
A good HVAC tech knows how, an educated HVAC tech knows why!
DEM
Regular Guest
A true "pro" can do it once in any condition,but it may cost more!
Regular Guest
I would have to agree, if the guy who is doing the install knows what hes doing with regards to flashing a vent stack and has done a few weather or OD temps shouldn't make a difference. As far as putting in a 95% over a 80% is 15% in your pocket means your saving money, and no matter how you look at it 15% adds up tp a pretty good savings over time.
Membership Committee*
Twilli says the ? should be WWTD?
No Heat No Cool You need Action Fast
Posting Permissions
Reply