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  1. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazooka Joey View Post
    Shut off power at the air handler for awhile and see if you hear the noise , possible but doubt it coming from the transformer as they make more of a humming sound.
    Was thinking about that and hopefully can locate the breaker at the main panel. There is a breaker by the air handler in the attic and would rather NOT try to use that to try. Not the easiest thing to access.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bazooka Joey View Post
    Perhaps you have manual balancing dampers , typically located by your main duct and where the flex branch duct hooks up , in which the wing nut is loose and any small amount of air ( when system is off ) travels through your duct it rattles the internal blade , not unusual for the wing nut to loosen over time as the blower fan moves the blade inside the flex takeoff.

    Also try completely blocking your return(s) so no movement of air traveling through your duct . With system off. I do mean completely blocking your return air tight.
    Good suggestions, thanks very much. I like having active things to try. If not for Super Bowl stuff going on here I'd try it tonight.

  2. #15
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    Blocked off all the intakes today with plastic garbage bags and sealed them off tight. Listened for a while and heard the noise a dozen times over a few minutes, same as it was with them not blocked. That didn't make any difference.

    And certainly not a transformer hum, I know that sound. This is a slight occasionally little almost rattle sound, tinny. Almost like strumming something metallic that's springy... and not on a regular timing either.

  3. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by infinitempg View Post
    Blocked off all the intakes today with plastic garbage bags and sealed them off tight. Listened for a while and heard the noise a dozen times over a few minutes, same as it was with them not blocked. That didn't make any difference.

    And certainly not a transformer hum, I know that sound. This is a slight occasionally little almost rattle sound, tinny. Almost like strumming something metallic that's springy... and not on a regular timing either.
    I suppose your next step would be for you or someone to climb in the attic and listen very closely at each section of the duct. With the power off to the AH. I would leave the returns blocked to keep noise from below to a minimum. Should not be to difficult to locate source of noise as you state a dozen times within a few minutes.

  4. #17
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    Have been up there twice in a past couple weeks during the day with my mechanic's stethoscope and using a plastic horn as a listening device and after an hour up there didn't hear a peep. Seems to be more at night when the temperature drops but today is cloudy and rainy so still getting it a bit. But have plans all day today so no time to crawl around up there. Seems my only option is going to be when I have time at night to crawl up there.

  5. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by infinitempg View Post
    Have been up there twice in a past couple weeks during the day with my mechanic's stethoscope and using a plastic horn as a listening device and after an hour up there didn't hear a peep. Seems to be more at night when the temperature drops but today is cloudy and rainy so still getting it a bit. But have plans all day today so no time to crawl around up there. Seems my only option is going to be when I have time at night to crawl up there.
    you can also remove the blower door usually they are secured by several 5/16" hex nut . Need only a 5/16" nut driver. The blower , motor , coil , electrical will be there . You may be able to see part of the inside of the duct there also. Need to be careful as maybe removing the door may actually cause the noise to disappear .possible your blower wheel free spins slightly causing the noise, hard to believe once you blocked the return thou. Anyway that is an option.

  6. #19
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    Tuesday I didn't need to head to work at O-dark:30 so I listened close and barely heard the noise a couple times (seems more prominent when it's cold out at night)... so I figured I had time so I crawled into the attic, turned off the circuit breaker at the air handler, and pulled the covers off. Checked everything I could, pulled and pushed on everything looking for something that might be loose or vibrating... nothing. But I took some pictures of the old beast before I put the covers back on :









    Put everything back together, clicked the circuit breaker back on, climbed down to head to work. Noticed the thermostat was ON heat and it was 2 colder in the house then it was set for. Nothing running! Oh nooooo! Turned it off, back on, nothing. Tried turning the fan on test mode... nothing! Went outside to the main breaker box and lock was seized up, tried bolt cutters but no good, had to run my hand grinder over and grind the lock off. No circuits tripped. Turned off AC breaker and back on. Back in the house, nothing. Pulled the ladder and everything out, crawled in the attic, turned the break off and back on... nothing. Thinking I might of pulled a wire off a terminal I took my multimeter up, power seemed good, so pulled the covers off again. Pushed on all the wires in the terminals and nothing budged. Great. Climbed back down and turned heat back on... TahDah! Running! But covers all off so climbed back, put everything back together and barely made it to work on time.

    That night didn't noticed the noise but was a mild evening. Last night... it's baaaaack. Doesn't seem as often or as loud as it was, but it's back. Dang it!

    I couldn't open the "box" manifold areas on the end (intake to right of cooling coils, output to left of control/wire section) so not sure if there is anything in either of those areas. The ends are totally tapped up with the aluminum duct tape so I'd have to box cutter my way in. Any clue if there's anything in either of those or if they'd just be big open box areas? Not sure if there would be baffles in them or not. And not sure what's actually inside the heater area, didn't open that either.

    The adventure continues...

  7. #20
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    Found a resource online that states this :

    "If your heat pump has started to make a clicking noise when it is turned off. The clicking is about one second apart and is continuous. Then the problem could be the "Safe-T switch" which monitors the drainage reservoir to the outside. You can bypass the switch, and the heat pump should turn on by itself. Replace the switch."

    I think I need to listen at night when it starts making the noise, go shut off the breakers complete removing power from the whole system and listen again. That's my next step but this was sort of close to the description except mine isn't on a regular basis. But since it's attached to the massive drain pan that would (could?) explain the noise sounding a little tinny/metallic.

  8. #21
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    Another potential from the internet, not a Carrier but the description makes sense :

    "If you have Carrier heat pump that is making a droning noise that goes thru the house every once in a while, and it gets worse the colder it gets. Then it maybe the line set is clamped to the joists, which is why you are getting a vibration noise. Then in order to eliminate such a noise the vibration absorbers should be installed.
    In addition to installing the vibration absorbers you may also ran a metal rod down into the ground and then tied the Freon lines to the rod to help divert vibration away from the house and down into the soil.
    "

    Finding these answers here : http://www.ductworkinstallation.com/...4/Default.aspx

  9. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by infinitempg View Post
    Tuesday I didn't need to head to work at O-dark:30 so I listened close and barely heard the noise a couple times (seems more prominent when it's cold out at night)... so I figured I had time so I crawled into the attic, turned off the circuit breaker at the air handler, and pulled the covers off. Checked everything I could, pulled and pushed on everything looking for something that might be loose or vibrating... nothing. But I took some pictures of the old beast before I put the covers back on :









    Put everything back together, clicked the circuit breaker back on, climbed down to head to work. Noticed the thermostat was ON heat and it was 2 colder in the house then it was set for. Nothing running! Oh nooooo! Turned it off, back on, nothing. Tried turning the fan on test mode... nothing! Went outside to the main breaker box and lock was seized up, tried bolt cutters but no good, had to run my hand grinder over and grind the lock off. No circuits tripped. Turned off AC breaker and back on. Back in the house, nothing. Pulled the ladder and everything out, crawled in the attic, turned the break off and back on... nothing. Thinking I might of pulled a wire off a terminal I took my multimeter up, power seemed good, so pulled the covers off again. Pushed on all the wires in the terminals and nothing budged. Great. Climbed back down and turned heat back on... TahDah! Running! But covers all off so climbed back, put everything back together and barely made it to work on time.

    That night didn't noticed the noise but was a mild evening. Last night... it's baaaaack. Doesn't seem as often or as loud as it was, but it's back. Dang it!

    I couldn't open the "box" manifold areas on the end (intake to right of cooling coils, output to left of control/wire section) so not sure if there is anything in either of those areas. The ends are totally tapped up with the aluminum duct tape so I'd have to box cutter my way in. Any clue if there's anything in either of those or if they'd just be big open box areas? Not sure if there would be baffles in them or not. And not sure what's actually inside the heater area, didn't open that either.

    The adventure continues...
    " I couldn't open the "box" manifold areas on the end (intake to right of cooling coils, output to left of control/wire section) so not sure if there is anything in either of those areas. The ends are totally tapped up with the aluminum duct tape so I'd have to box cutter my way in. Any clue if there's anything in either of those or if they'd just be big open box areas? Not sure if there would be baffles in them or not. And not sure what's actually inside the heater area, didn't open that either."

    I personally don't know what your describing , in above quote maybe someone else can help you there . Looking at the third photo down where you have the two blue wire nut from this view , those two wires look like your power wires . I don't see where the ground green wire or bare copper wire is hooked to . There is a ground lug in the photo but I don't see the ground hooked to it. Don't you have the Air Handler grounded somewhere ?

    Other controls ,you have a high limit temperature ( automatic reset ) on your what looks like a electric heating element. The square black box looks to be your fan start and heat sequencer .

    Keep us posted

  10. #23
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    Sorry about the confusion. This unit is installed horizontally in the attic rafters. As it lays the end with the cooling coils has a "box" on that end with all the intake ducts (returns) attached to it. This box is duct taped to the end with the cooling coils. The opposite end is the discharge and there is a "box" duct taped to that end with all the ducts to the registers attached to it. These two "boxes" are all taped shut so can't access inside them without cutting some duct tape.

    And as far as the grounding wire, the photo isn't good but there is a grounding strap installed in it. The shadows darken that area so much you really can't see it. To be sure I looked at the original photo up close and lightened it and you can barely see it. The unit is definitely grounded (but had to check).

    Thanks, and hopefully a new update coming soon.

  11. #24
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    The box on the return side are called return plenum , and if you just have a box on the supply side ,called a supply plenum . If you actually have supply ductwork that runs close to the length of the resident then you have a transition piece from the Air Handler which connects to your main duct run. It looks like you have fiberboard duct work on the supply side , if so cut it to look inside then use high temperature RTV on the cut part and foil tape it afterwards, or simply discount one or two branch lines at the plenum ,you can slide out the blower assembly and look toward the supply duct .

    You should also have an emergency drain pan under the Air Handler
    Last edited by Bazooka Joey; 02-12-2015 at 03:23 PM.

  12. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by infinitempg View Post
    Was thinking about that and hopefully can locate the breaker at the main panel. There is a breaker by the air handler in the attic and would rather NOT try to use that to try. Not the easiest thing to access.




    Good suggestions, thanks very much. I like having active things to try. If not for Super Bowl stuff going on here I'd try it tonight.
    You never stated that you actually have manual balancing dampers and if you do that you tightened each and every one of the wing nuts.

  13. #26
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    Couple things in the first photo there is a ( what looks like a support tubing that connects to the drain pan ) to the left of the metering device , typically those tubing are loosely fitted , may want to add RTV cement where it penetrates the sheetmetal structure between the two coils on both sides if possible . Possible your getting air moving through the duct on off cycle due to the temperature difference from attic to house temperature . Heat flows to colder area

    Also does not have anything to do with the noise ,but your cap tubes ( from your metering device ) should not be touching metal, each other , or the tubing mentioned . If touching , the vibration while system is running usually causes wear on the tubing to a point where they wear down to paper thin and rupture and refrigerant release is possible.

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