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Hobart AM15-T wash temperature problem
Hello everyone!
I am a new member and a little nervous about this but here we go. Has anyone had any problems on the Hobart AM15-T dishwasher maintaining the wash temperature?. I am getting beat up buy the local Health Department because of the 138 degree wash temperature when it should be maintaining a minimum of 150 degrees. The final rinse temperature is 190 at the manifold. The elementary school where this machine is at only has one lunch period while serving about 300+ students. Once they start washing trays, the machine does not stop until they are done. The machine has 4 wash cycles. They are using the number 1 wash cycle which is the quickest with 4 being the longest.
I have checked the gas pressure, replaced the infrared burner and the combustion fan motor. I have also checked the orifice and re-drilled to the next decimal size because it was egg shaped instead of round. I have also set the machine to its highest wash temperature which is 170 degrees but when they start to use it, It slowly drops in temperature while I can hear the burner operating to try to keep up.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Originally Posted by
jsdkitchen
Hello everyone!
I am a new member and a little nervous about this but here we go. Has anyone had any problems on the Hobart AM15-T dishwasher maintaining the wash temperature?. I am getting beat up buy the local Health Department because of the 138 degree wash temperature when it should be maintaining a minimum of 150 degrees. The final rinse temperature is 190 at the manifold. The elementary school where this machine is at only has one lunch period while serving about 300+ students. Once they start washing trays, the machine does not stop until they are done. The machine has 4 wash cycles. They are using the number 1 wash cycle which is the quickest with 4 being the longest.
I have checked the gas pressure, replaced the infrared burner and the combustion fan motor. I have also checked the orifice and re-drilled to the next decimal size because it was egg shaped instead of round. I have also set the machine to its highest wash temperature which is 170 degrees but when they start to use it, It slowly drops in temperature while I can hear the burner operating to try to keep up.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I can try and point you in the correct direction as i know this machine well in the electric version .
First off the health deptmartant should only be concerned with the final rinse temp as it does the sanitizing , but it differs depending on where you live.
Check your water flow pressure , if its way to high the water doesnt have a chance to heat up . Should be around 20 psi . If not adjust your pressure reducing valve.
Have you actually stuck a temp probe in the wash water to confirm what it is ? The probe that senses the temp in the wash tank could be giving you a wrong reading .
You say you have the wash tank temp set to 170 ? so when you fill the machine and let it sit without running a cycle , does it maintain temp then ?
Whats your incoming supply water temp ? and can it meet the demand throughout the day ?
Start here , but definitely look at the pressure .
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Thank you Dakota11 for your response. The pressure gauge is reading 20 psi but that could be questioned. I have a mercury "holding thermometer" that I will use to test the temp. of the water before the final rinse cycle starts and I will also replace the pressure gauge. The machine does maintain 170 degrees while sitting idle. I will test the incoming water temp as you also suggested. As far as the incoming water supply meeting the demand, I will have to figure out a way to find that out. I am servicing 52 schools by myself and it gets a little hectic but I will figure out something.
Thanks for your time and information. I will get back to you with the results.
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real easy to overthink the situation here , It is possible that you could have a leaking drain pipe oring allowing the unit to continually fill or a bad fill solenoid valve that wont stop filling cooling things off or I have seen temperature issues pop up from blocked up final rinse or wash arm nozzles so make sure to check these as well ,good luck
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I don't know what the "t" designation is so I'm going to answer as it were a standard am-15 unit.
You checked the float magnets right? Is the fill shutting off when it should and the valves not leaking through as previously mentioned? If it's not getting flushed with tap water while it's being ran then I'm going to the rinse system. Nozzles limed up? Is it getting plenty of water flow during rinse? Is the rinse temp dropping off as they run continuous cycles? With every tray they run the machine's tank gets topped off with 180+ degree water. If it's getting that rinse water in the machine's tank heat shouldn't have to run hardly to maintain temp. My bet is a rinse flow or booster issue.
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Originally Posted by
CFESAmasterEGSR
I don't know what the "t" designation is so I'm going to answer as it were a standard am-15 unit.
You checked the float magnets right? Is the fill shutting off when it should and the valves not leaking through as previously mentioned? If it's not getting flushed with tap water while it's being ran then I'm going to the rinse system. Nozzles limed up? Is it getting plenty of water flow during rinse? Is the rinse temp dropping off as they run continuous cycles? With every tray they run the machine's tank gets topped off with 180+ degree water. If it's getting that rinse water in the machine's tank heat shouldn't have to run hardly to maintain temp. My bet is a rinse flow or booster issue.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
To all of you who replied to my problem, I thank you. I just found out that they are going to gut the piping through out this 60 year old school so I am not going to pursue this any farther until they are done. I will apply all of your suggestions and report back around September.
Again, thanks
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[QUOTE=jsdkitchen;18515571]To all of you who replied to my problem, I thank you. I just found out that they are going to gut the piping through out this 60 year old school so I am not going to pursue this any farther until they are done. I will apply all of your suggestions and report back around September.
Again, thanks[/QUOTE
Update to my problem.
They replaced the galvanized 3/4" piping with copper in the school. The contractor gave me about a foot long piece of the pipe and the interior dimension of the pipe was reduced to about 3/8". The new copper pipe, a new booster heater that I installed and some return piping mistakes that were made decades ago repaired, the final rinse is able to help maintain a 150 degree temp. in the dishwasher. Why the problem was not noticed years ago, I can not answer.
Again, thanks to all of you who responded.
Dave
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Post Likes - 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
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[QUOTE=jsdkitchen;20052011]
Originally Posted by
jsdkitchen
To all of you who replied to my problem, I thank you. I just found out that they are going to gut the piping through out this 60 year old school so I am not going to pursue this any farther until they are done. I will apply all of your suggestions and report back around September.
Again, thanks[/QUOTE
Update to my problem.
They replaced the galvanized 3/4" piping with copper in the school. The contractor gave me about a foot long piece of the pipe and the interior dimension of the pipe was reduced to about 3/8". The new copper pipe, a new booster heater that I installed and some return piping mistakes that were made decades ago repaired, the final rinse is able to help maintain a 150 degree temp. in the dishwasher. Why the problem was not noticed years ago, I can not answer.
Again, thanks to all of you who responded.
Dave
how do you adjust the final rinse temperature on an Am-15?
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I also have a AM15 with great elements, new contactors ,new rinse probe, and control board. Issue is 1- even though the probe for rinse temp is new and also the control board, it still showes p2. #2- Wash temp cycles at 109 and is set to 158. There is no seeping out of water and fill isnt leaking either, like I said the contactor cycles at 109. Rinse is great at 186, all pipes clean and no blockages. Got any clues please also rinse pressure at 21
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Got it handled finding a erratic high limit, setting itself where ever it wanted that day. Thanks though
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Still have a problem with rinse probe, most likely wire issue
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any actual service manuals on the model for error code?
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Originally Posted by
ICEJUNKIE
any actual service manuals on the model for error code?
What service code are you seeing?
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Originally Posted by
ECtofix
What service code are you seeing?
A P2 Error code is the rinse probe that's on the booster tank , not the probe up top in piping ......just to clarify as some people confuse the two
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Originally Posted by
Dakota11
A P2 Error code is the rinse probe that's on the booster tank , not the probe up top in piping ......just to clarify as some people confuse the two