The following data is applicable to the ANNIE A12X Export 220-250 Volt-60 Cycle Model.
SECTION A – METER OPERATION
Ohmmeter
1. Make sure the Analyzer is unplugged and Ammeter Switch is off, Ammeter operates on “D” cell battery.
2. Move #hmmeter Switch to ohms position.
3. Clip Red & Black leads together, turn Master Switch on, needle will move to about zero. Adjust to zero Ohms with control inside chord pocket. If meter will not zero, replace battery.
4. Use Red & Black leads to identify winding terminals. Highest Ohms is from Start to & Run terminal.Terminal left is Common. Reading from Common highest is Start. The remaining terminal with lowest reading is Run.
Voltmeter
1. Disconnect Analyzer from external power source.
2. Put Ammeter Switch to “Hi” position.
3. Put Ohmmeter Switch in “Power” position.
4. Put Voltmeter Switch in “Line” position.
5. Turn Master Switch “Off”.
6. Isolate Black, Red, White and Yellow from each other and earth.
7. Connect power supply chord of Analyzer to "coltage connection to be read.
8. The "voltage indicated on the Voltmeter is the line "voltage supplied to the Analyzer.
Ammeter
1. Disconnect Analyzer from external power source.
2. Put Ohmmeter switch in “Power” position.
3. Put Ammeter switch to “Off” position.
4. Put Master Switch in “On” position.
5. Connect the apparatus under test to the Red and Black leads. Isolate the Yellow and White leads from each other and ground.
6. Connect the Analyzer to a power supply of the correct "voltage for the apparatus being tested.
7. Put Ammeter Switch to “Hi” position, read up to 25A apparatus being tested. After apparatus has started switch to “Lo” position, if current draw on the ammeter is under"5A"
8. If line "voltage is desired while measuring amperage, place voltmeter switch in the “Line”position.
Section B - HOW TO CHECK A HERMITICALLY SEALED UNIT
1. Remove all external wiring from the terminals of the sealed unit.
2. Connect the Red Lead to the Run Terminal. White Lead to Start Terminal, Black Lead to the Common Terminal, and the
Yellow lead to the solidly Frame.
3. Make certain Master Switch; Ammeter Switch and Voltmeter Switch are off. DO NOT CONNECT ANALYZER TO EXTERNAL
POWER.
4. Put Ohmmeter Switch in “OHMS” position and press Start Button. If resistance is indicated (movement of ohmmeter)
the windings are shorted to the frame.Replace unit if this condition exists.
5. Put Master Switch in “On” to check resistance of Run winding. “Reverse” position checks resistance of Start windings.
Replace unit if windings are open or earthed.
Section C - HOW TO START A HERMITICALY SEALED UNIT
1. Remove Yellow Lead from frame and isolate it from earth.
2. Put “Ammeter” Switch to ‘Hi” position.
3. Put “Ohmmeter” Switch to “Power” position.
4. Put Master Switch in “Off” position.
5. Put Capacitor Selection Switch in proper range (see selection G)
6. Connect Analyzer to power supply of correct voltage for the compressor. Power Light will come on when the Analyzer is energized. If no light or a very dull glow of Power Light check fuse in chord pocket. Replace if necessary. Line Voltage can be read by putting Voltage Switch in line position.
7. Hold Start Button “IN” put Master Switch “ON” position.
8. Release button when units starts.
9. Turn Master Switch off if unit fails to start in 3 seconds.
10.If unit operated satisfactorily the trouble is with the capacitor, relay, control, overload or other external wiring.
11.Put Ammeter Switch and Voltmeter Switch to desired ranges for further tests. These tests include low voltage or high current draws, those that are above rated amperage. If unit fails to start it is stuck, see section D. Disregard capacitor and relay bulbs while making this test.
Section D - HOW TO REVERSE A STUCK OR FROZEN UNIT
1. Proceed as outlined in Section C, steps one and two.
2. Holding start button in, quickly move Master Switch between “On” and “Reverse” position several times. If unit starts let
it run for approximately a minute then turn it off.
3. Try to start the unit as outlined in Section C, Step 3. If unit now fails to start it is beyond help and must be replaced.
IF FUSE BLOWS WAIT FIVE MINUTES AND REPLACE THE FUSE INSIDE CORD POCKET
Section E - How To Test Capacitors
1. Make sure Master Switch and Ammeter Switch are off. Put Ohmmeter in Power position.
2. Disconnect Capacitor form all external wiring including bleed resistors.
3. Discharge Capacitor with light bulb or bleed resistor so as not to blow fuse on internally fused capacitors.
4. Connect Black and Yellow Leads to Capacitor terminals.
5. Connect tester to power source.
6. Place Ammeter Switch in “Hi” position and note reaction of light.
a. If light goes on then out the capacitor has taken a charge. New capacitors may keep the light glowing for few minutes
b. If no light the capacitor is open.
c. If light stays on then the capacitor is shorted.
d. If light decreases but does not go out the capacitor is leaking.
7. When light goes out, press capacity button for mFd reading of start capacitors. (Do not press button if light remains on
indicating a shorted capacitor) Discard capacitors that vary 20% from rating. For small start and run use “LO” range on
Ammeter.
8. (Optional) The Analyzer can be left on the job as an emergency substitute capacitor. Connect the Yellow and White
Leads to the leads that normally go from the systems wiring to the capacitor DO NOT PLUG THE ANALYZER IN, put
Master Switch on and set Capacitor Switch mFd needed. All other switches should be left off or in the center position.
SECTION F - TO TEST POTENTIAL RELAYS ONLY
1. Make sure Master Switch, Ammeter Switch, and Voltmeter Switch are off.
2. Put Ohmmeter Switch in relay position.
3. Turn volts control all the way down (counter clockwise)
4. Connect White Lead to relay terminal #1, Black Lead to #2, and the Red Lead to #3.
5. CONNECT ANALYZER TO 230 VOLT POWER SOURCE.
6. Turn Master Switch “ON” and set Voltmeter Switch to relay position. Relay light must come on. If no light points are
open, replace relay.
7. Increase volts until relay “picks up”. Make a note of the voltage before “pick up”. This indicates the “pick up” voltage.
If light remains on, points are frozen and relay must be replaced. If relay does not “pick up” at maximum rated volts,
the coil is bad and the relay must be replaced.
8. Decrease voltage until relay “drops out”. Make a note of voltage just before “drop out”. This indicates “drop out” volts.
Light must come back on when replay drops out. If Light remains on the points are frozen or sticky and relay must be
replaced.
9. Compare pick up and drop out voltages with the information supplied by the relay manufacturer.
SECTION G - 240 VOLT CAPACITOR INFORMATION
1. Units up to 2 hp use 25-80 mFd range.
2. Units of 1-1 hp use 85-145 mFd range.
3. Units over 1 hp use 150-200 mFd range.
SECTION H - RELAY WIRING INFORMATION
1. G.E. Relay
a. Lead from post #1 goes to “Start”
b. Lead from post #3 goes to “Run”
c. Other post is “Common”
2. Delco Relay
a. Lead from post #S goes to “Start”
b. Lead from post #M goes to “Run”
c. Other post is “Common”
Jeffsmg,
I'll see if I can find it. Alot going on right now may take awhile.
HAHAHAHAHA ORALE! If you see on #19 that was way back in 2015. Plus Poodle Head Mickey never posted a Thank You if he recieved it. I believe that he did because Greg said he'd email it.
I have a PDF manual. Thats why I typed everything to save people from asking to email copy. I would be more than happy to email you one if you'd like. But it's that remnant rebellious side of me that got the better of me Muahahahaha. OLE!
First, yes I do know that this was discussed four years ago. But given that there was more than a page of responses today, it is clear the you all still use this "forum" and remain interested in this issue. (After all, I was looking for a manual to use a piece of gear that hasn't been made since before half of you were born, yet there is sufficient interest in it that companies are remaking it today -- how foolish they must be!)
Second, this is the first time I have used a "Forum". I do not have a Facebook page, I do not use Twitter, WhatsApp, WeChat, QZone, Tumblr, Instagram, Google+ or an of the 65+ social media applications that youngsters seem glued to these days. I do use things called a telephone and email for virtually all of my communication -- these are fast and are communications are rarely misunderstood or result in abusive anonymous responses. So, I apologize to everyone who took a personal interest or who may have suffered some personal injury from my post (which, BTW, does contain my email address in a format using words to avoid censorship).
Finally, please ignore my ignorant use of this forum. In the future, I will avoid this anonymous cloud of people who claim to be "helpful" to their fellow technicians and will rather seek help from my known colleagues and friends who are slow on their ungenerous retorts yet are quick on their helpfulness.
Thank you. As noted previously, my email address is admin at ce3000 dot com (admin@ce3000.com)
Jeffsmg,
I too emailed you my PDF version. out of curiosity if it's the same as Gleng's I would appreciate to verify. if it's not would you send me his copy. I like Forums, the banter the misunderstandings, all the opinions and excellent advice from retired experts, so Welcome to your First Forum. I too don't like social media. By the way maybe I was born in 1960 way before Mechanical Refrigeration Enterprises founded in 1992 started making Annie.
Thank you for sending your version of the manual. It is different, but that may be because it looks like yours may be for the A-12X -- the "Export" version. Gleng's manual may also be missing a page. I have some other portions of manuals, and I may be able to put one complete manual together for the A-12. If I am successful in finding all the pages, I will advise on the forum and find a way to put it on the Internet for download.
Thank You,
Jeff
Last edited by jeffsmg; 08-09-2019 at 10:35 PM.
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Originally Posted by FVP
