Problem with Majestic chatau DVT38S2

[rastaj]

I recently installed a chateau DVT38 2 sided, converted to propane, and I am having some very rough ignitions. I used the air shutter plate on the burner, and the air intake restricter as well as the 6 inch exaust restricter. The venting is 20 feet vertical and there is one jog using 30's at about the 12 foot range. My only guess at this time is the pilot needs to be turned up higher. The front burners have me baffled because at least for propane, there is no direct path from the main burner/pilot light to ignite the 2 front burners. NG would light better obviously because it rises. Has anyone come across this issue?

[rastaj]

Nevermind...the answer was about a pounds worth of rockwool to help defuse the propane and lead it to the upper burners to help ignite the lowers. All the air mixtures were correct.
On a side note....seems to be a lot of snobbery on this forum. I guess that comes with the territory, since most in this trade seem to think they are the best in the industry. I was only half expecting a response on this question, or at least someone to try and one-up me. I hope this post will at least help other fireplace installers in troubleshooting install issues with this fireplace. I know that tech support at Vermont Castings wasn't much help, and to top it off...the issues i was dealing with, were not described in the 2005 installation manual-but were in the most recent revision downloaded from their website. I can only wonder how many shattered windows the had before those revisions were made. shame...

[logdoc_rob]

Hey Rasta, I am not sure what you describe as "snobbery", but I have found for the most part that the people on this site are quite willing to assist. I have ran across people that were uninformed as to a particular issue, but never really snobs.

Glad you got your issue resolved and shared it with us !!!

[rastaj]

I never meant ALL the people on this site, but i did read around the forum and it seemed their was something that bothered me but i couldn't put my finger on it. Since i'm new to this forum, maybe i'll just keep trying and I'm sure i will find what i need and help others as well. Thanks for your response though, and yea...that fireplace ROCKS now..finally. Just in time for open house tomorrow

[hearthman]

Rastaj, I'm glad you found your problem but please understand we work for a living. Our participation here is not mandatory. I have been getting in late at night all week. I do not have personal experience with this model Fp so I figured give it a few days. Since your first post was on Thurs, I think you need to be a little more patient and humble when asking for free advice. Yes, there are some very bright people on this forum but they get to choose when and where they post.

ANSI Stds. allow for 4 seconds before it is termed a delayed ignition. If it takes more than that, shut the unit off at once. You may have temporarily solved your problem but there can be much more to it. Aside from the ignition train, what about you gas pressures, orifice size and alignment, mixer tube, burner cracks, blocked burner ports, vent restrictors, venting configuration, blocked termination, standing pilot versus electronic ignition, etc. etc.? If you are a technician, these need to be addressed line item and more. If not, I recommend you pay a qualified technician to perform a comprehensive service before someone gets hurt.

HTH,

[rastaj]

I AM a qualified technician, otherwise i wouldn't be posting on this site. And this is what i mean about the snobbery. Maybe i take it wrong, but there ya go.

I itemized all the things i did to set the FP up in my initial post. The ignition train was the biggest issue solved with the use of rock wool. Remember, this is a 38 inch viewing area and 2 sided. There is a lot of room for the propane to build and fast. The ignition time was just over 4 seconds and with that much propane, it knocks your freakin socks off. My original fear was blowing the glass out on a brand new FP. Turns out, good ole' vermont castings had an air shutter kit that did NOT come with the stove, but was a special order part that i never knew about till i called tech service.
This is the seventh one of these FP's that i have installed, and each one needs special attention to the air settings and vent restrictions according to the type of venting config used-more so than other FP's i've installed. The one i had the issue with was the first converted to propane and seemed to bring up a whole new set of issues.
My purpose in posting my original post was to see if other techs had similiar problems, and i was in no rush for a response. I work hard long hours as well. It may have actually been fun to call another "qualified tech" to remedy the problem, but as it is, I have had a few service calls where other area techs could not solve a particular problem-one that should have been obvious.

ANSI Stds. allow for 4 seconds before it is termed a delayed ignition. If it takes more than that, shut the unit off at once. You may have temporarily solved your problem but there can be much more to it. Aside from the ignition train, what about you gas pressures, orifice size and alignment, mixer tube, burner cracks, blocked burner ports, vent restrictors, venting configuration, blocked termination, standing pilot versus electronic ignition, etc. etc.? If you are a technician, these need to be addressed line item and more. If not, I recommend you pay a qualified technician to perform a comprehensive service before someone gets hurt.

HTH,

[hearthman]

"I AM a qualified technician, otherwise i wouldn't be posting on this site. And this is what i mean about the snobbery. "

Listen Rastaj, we have no idea who you are or your credentials so chill. You failed to list any credentials in your profile so how are we to know? We get homeowners all the time on here.

I like how you accuse me of snobbery after I posted a whole paragraph of topics to consider and I shared them without knowing whether you were a homeowner or not. Now who's the snob? Come down off your high horse and spackle that chip on your shoulder.

If you are still experiencing hard ignition you probably have a problem with port loading and that is the responsibility of the mfr. If you feel the unit places your client in danger your best bet is to tag it out, lock it out, document with the homeowner in writing that they were informed with the date and their signature along with the consequences should they operate the unit.

I still hope this helps. Happy Fathers Day to all you dads, too.

[logdoc_rob]

Hey Hearthman....any chance that I can be your assistant for a week or so???? Heck, I'd even buy lunch....depending on what part of the country ya work in. I promise that the next time you are in Va Beach that there will be no snow drifts .....as long as it is in the next 5 months!!!!!

[rastaj]

hehe...sounds like your horse is higher than mine, hearthman. Anyway, like i said...the problem was fixed and i see no need in red tagging it since it works fine. Home owners are people too by the way, even though im a renter.




Happy Fathers Day!!!!!

[hearthman]

Rastaj, I'm glad your unit is working well for now. Some of the best technicians find themselves renting at one point in their lives or another. Some like to keep it that way so I see no correlation btw your housing and credentials. This site has rules against too much DIY advice--that's all.

For those following along, I want to share my thought process so you'll know why I made such a strong recommendation for followup by the factory:
The ANSI Stds. require testing under some rather stringent circumstances. Part of that testing includes smooth ignition regardless if the burner is covered with embers or half on half off. Embers cannot be relied upon to create the proper conditions for ignition. Embers blow around, crumble away with use, or get removed by people. This Fp may be working acceptably now but what happens if those embers shift or settle? Delayed and hard ignition can shatter glass and injure people. As a technician, if you know an appliance poses a reasonable degree of hazard to the occupants, you are obligated to notify the homeowners including the consequences of failure to heed your warnings and to disable the controls until the unit is acceptable. If a shift in the embers could cause this Fp to experience a hard or delayed ignition where someone is injured, the technican would most likely be found guilty of a breech in his duty to warn the homeowners and not just simple negligence but possibly gross negligence. If you know there is an outright danger and deliberately attempt to hide it, you could be found guilty of intent to defraud. The fraud and gross negligence might carry criminal penalties in your state. Just thought I'd try to put things into perspective for the forum.

Happy Father's Day to all. Gotta run the grille now,
Hearthman

logdoc_rob, I may be calling you soon as I am getting into consulting! Hope you have some real Southern BBQ down there and not that Kansas city sugary crap! I think you'd make a good weatherman for half the yr...

[Edward A. (Ed) Carey]

Hearthman said:
"I may be calling you soon as I am getting into consulting"!


Hey Bob, it's about time.


Good luck in your efforts. Call if I can help.


Ed Carey

[logdoc_rob]

You will be calling soon huh? I guess that means you will be charging for info now.....geez, I don't think I could afford you !!!! hehehehe

[Bilgamesh]

I AM a qualified technician, otherwise i wouldn't be posting on this site. And this is what i mean about the snobbery. Maybe i take it wrong, but there ya go.

I itemized all the things i did to set the FP up in my initial post. The ignition train was the biggest issue solved with the use of rock wool. Remember, this is a 38 inch viewing area and 2 sided. There is a lot of room for the propane to build and fast. The ignition time was just over 4 seconds and with that much propane, it knocks your freakin socks off. My original fear was blowing the glass out on a brand new FP. Turns out, good ole' vermont castings had an air shutter kit that did NOT come with the stove, but was a special order part that i never knew about till i called tech service.
This is the seventh one of these FP's that i have installed, and each one needs special attention to the air settings and vent restrictions according to the type of venting config used-more so than other FP's i've installed. The one i had the issue with was the first converted to propane and seemed to bring up a whole new set of issues.
My purpose in posting my original post was to see if other techs had similiar problems, and i was in no rush for a response. I work hard long hours as well. It may have actually been fun to call another "qualified tech" to remedy the problem, but as it is, I have had a few service calls where other area techs could not solve a particular problem-one that should have been obvious.

Rastaj, if you get back on here, I hope you can help with a question. I had a DVT44 installed many years ago. After it was embedded in rock, we hooked up to gas and ran it. About 15 min or so into burning, it gives a loud boom, which kind of pushes the glass out far enough to suck in air. I can turn it off for a minute, and everything is back to normal for awhile, but eventually it does the boom again. The techs could never figure it out. I talked to people at CFM, and they sent me out a retrofit burner kit that was sort of tilted at an angle. We installed, but no improvement. We have lived with it for years, and typically just turn it off when that happens. I;m kind of motivated to fix it again, and i read recently on another post:

"Majestic had a problem like this once. They sent a kit that included a coulple of 3.5 inch screws in it and rtv sealant along with a diagram of placement. The idea was drill a hole through the firebox wall and thread the screw through that hole until it contacted the outer jacket."

Do you have any experience around this? I would appreciate your thoughts.

[pacnw]

Rastaj, if you get back on here, I hope you can help with a question. I had a DVT44 installed many years ago. After it was embedded in rock, we hooked up to gas and ran it. About 15 min or so into burning, it gives a loud boom, which kind of pushes the glass out far enough to suck in air. I can turn it off for a minute, and everything is back to normal for awhile, but eventually it does the boom again. The techs could never figure it out. I talked to people at CFM, and they sent me out a retrofit burner kit that was sort of tilted at an angle. We installed, but no improvement. We have lived with it for years, and typically just turn it off when that happens. I;m kind of motivated to fix it again, and i read recently on another post:

"Majestic had a problem like this once. They sent a kit that included a coulple of 3.5 inch screws in it and rtv sealant along with a diagram of placement. The idea was drill a hole through the firebox wall and thread the screw through that hole until it contacted the outer jacket."

Do you have any experience around this? I would appreciate your thoughts.

You do realize this post is 11 and a half years old, right?!?!?!

Start your own post.

[BALloyd]

He already did and didn't like the answers he got. Looks like the thread got deleted.

You do realize this post is 11 and a half years old, right?!?!?!

Start your own post.

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