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Thread: Carrier or Trane

  1. #1
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    Carrier or Trane

    Which is better? Carrier or Trane?

  2. #2
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    The one that is sized right, installed correctly and properly maintained.

  3. #3
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    X2.

  4. #4
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    well, I use a lot of carrier units. last year i installed a large job. all units came form Mexico. had just a few problems.. There are a few things i don like about the new carriers and it pisses me off... Unless you get the more expensive ones.. all the panels are screwed on using these plastic inserts to screw too... during install, Electricians, mechanical guys and balance guys stripped almost half of the the plastic holders...now i have to worry about covers flying off. So now i'm running around zip screwing them.

    The other thing i noticed, Carrier is using carbon molded pulleys on the fan not motor just the fan..So far no issues..Just thought that was interesting. The bottom line, on the commercial grade or budget grade they really cheapened the quality anywhere they could. Also, i needed a factory part, and it took forever to get...

    I starting to look at Trane more...not sure how much better they are in quality ..looks like everyone is cutting where they can.

    OK that was commercial units...The same goes for Residential, but i will say, Carrier and Trane make different grades each cost a bit more. when pricing out the job ask your rep what the differences are..Sometimes he may not know..But sometimes its like getting a plastic bushing instead of a brass one..or heaver gauge metal, sound deadening etc...

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmsmars1 View Post
    The one that is sized right, installed correctly and properly maintained.
    this answer reminds me of the movie forrest gump where his sergeant asks him what his purpose in the military is.

    now my company is authorized Bryant and Trane dealers. I install and work on a lot of carrier/Bryant systems along with Tranes. I like both about equally. They are both high quality reliable systems as long as they are installed correctly as jmsmars1 said.
    "only 2 tools any man needs is wd40 and duct tape. if it moves and it shouldn't use the duct tape. if it doesn't move and should, use the wd40" -unknown

  6. #6
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    Depends on a couple different factors not just the brand. How it's installed, how it's matched up, efficiency, and how it's serviced. There's other brands out there that are less expensive and will run just as good.

  7. #7
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    kind of like comparing a caddy to a lincoln

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snapperhead View Post
    kind of like comparing a caddy to a lincoln
    Caddy is the best
    "If you've eliminated all other possibilities whatever remains must be the truth."

  9. #9
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    I choose none of the above im a lennox man all the way

  10. #10
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    Look at My Profile Pic!!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snapperhead View Post
    kind of like comparing a caddy to a lincoln
    Caddy gm
    lincoln ford
    in this case ahhhh they both suck.

  12. #12
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    Shop by features and construction detail, not by brand. Of course install quality trumps all.

  13. #13
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    Trane

  14. #14
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    Trane air handlers are garbage

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinAdv View Post
    Trane air handlers are garbage
    How do you figure?

    I see more carriers with insulation missing, mold/mildew growth, units not draining, drain pans sweating, .....

  16. #16
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    There almost the same. Its miniscule minute differences component location, or in most cases how front panel comes off

    Sent from my LGL35G using Tapatalk 2

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinAdv View Post
    Trane air handlers are garbage
    I agree with that on the term of air leakage in the hyperion air handlers. even with grommets installed properly it requires taping door seams if a blower door test is being done after install...older air handlers were a lot tighter even though the whole concept was minimizing air leakage on the new air handlers.
    "only 2 tools any man needs is wd40 and duct tape. if it moves and it shouldn't use the duct tape. if it doesn't move and should, use the wd40" -unknown

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by SCtech33 View Post
    I agree with that on the term of air leakage in the hyperion air handlers. even with grommets installed properly it requires taping door seams if a blower door test is being done after install...older air handlers were a lot tighter even though the whole concept was minimizing air leakage on the new air handlers.
    exactly the thing looks like only tape is holding it together after you tape the crap out of the 4-5 different doors also the doors don't want to close without a fight.

    they also had problems with the door switches and doors warping from the heat

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravity View Post
    How do you figure?

    I see more carriers with insulation missing, mold/mildew growth, units not draining, drain pans sweating, .....
    well alot of that is because the trane is a positve pressure air handler but in this dry climate its not much of an issue

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinAdv View Post
    exactly the thing looks like only tape is holding it together after you tape the crap out of the 4-5 different doors also the doors don't want to close without a fight.

    they also had problems with the door switches and doors warping from the heat
    You probably had experience with the earlier generation models. The newer revised models are better. There were bound to be issues when it first came out, but Trane has done a good job correcting them and improving the design to make the Hyperion one of the better air handlers on the market in my opinion. All-aluminum coils and EEVs are better than copper coils and conventional TXVs. It is simply the way technology is moving. EEVs are used in inverter-driven systems now (more manufacturers will be introducing variable capacity systems), and more manufacturers are beginning to use all-aluminum coils to avoid leaking copper coils in 6-8 years. The biggest air leakage spot is the lineset entry point, as you said. Positive air leakage is always going to be more noticeable than a conventional air handler leaking and drawing air in. And it's still very minimal compared to the amount of air the blower is moving. Mine is a 2012 model -- no real noticeable air leakage from the doors, a small amount where the lineset enters. And I don't care. If anything, keeps the utility room conditioned and not overly negative from possible return leakage. Less need to worry about uninsulated ducts sweating in my small utility room.
    Last edited by RyanHughes; 04-11-2013 at 11:39 PM.

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