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Use PVC stretchers and benders. Do away with all fittings and customer will never have an issue. I cringe when I see p traps made with 90s. I always stretch and bend my PVC no fittings used whatsoever. I'd give someone $.50 if they find a clogged drain on an install I did

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I used to use a piece of solder wrapped around heatee on refrigerator drains years ago. Always worked!!

I have 3 salad units to clean the drains on Monday told customer to remove everything form the units. C02 and Gallo gun will be used. Freezer on Tue, wrap a piece of bare wire around pan heater and stick one end down the drain. Fingers crossed for that one.
Dynamite could be an option. (:-

White Vinegar Too!!

Hot water works too


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Contractors need to use what they think is best. You are all professionals and are all doing what is best for your customers.
I can tell you thoigh that when I first came out with the SS1 float switch before any codes nobody wanted it ecause tgey said they would lose service calls. The floT switch saves thousands in water damage and you still get a no cool call. Very hard to introduce anything new as we are all creatures of habit including myself.

Originally Posted by glennac

Unbelievable. Just pour one to two cups of bleach in the drain line at the coil. It will clean out in 5 min on it's own.

Then check the slope and make sure you have a minimum of 1/4" slope all the way to the drain termination to avoid future fungi growth in the pipe stopping it up. Simple. Thank you very much

well sanitizer tablets in the trap work pretty well for a longer term cleaning agent. They store pretty easily in a medicine bottle and can rattle around without a mess in the tool box.

But unpressurized nitrogen wouldn't do anything to clear a drain.

PHM
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Originally Posted by Employee856

How about just installing a union & use nitrogen? No need to over complicate things.

How about just installing a union & use nitrogen? No need to over complicate things.

Yeah I do the shop vac ---) plus noise validates I'm working during a tune up

Are you guys talking about 636?

Originally Posted by rmdean

A self cleaning trap work great too. When you have room to install the trap low, every foot will provide .43 psi from the static head pressure. I have done this on package units installed on adapter curbs that gave me about 4 feet of riser so if it clogged at the trap, the pressure was about 1.75 pounds from the weight of the water and would blow itself out - self cleaning. I would imagine this would work great on a residential application with the unit installed in an attic and the trap at the ground level, 15 feet will give about 6.5 psi

Until it became double-trapped from laziness of poor drain installation. Dips and sags are prelevant on an attic drain line in my area. Im not sure what it is, but apparently i missed the ammendment in physics class of water flowing downhill...unless it applies to an HVAC system

A self cleaning trap work great too. When you have room to install the trap low, every foot will provide .43 psi from the static head pressure. I have done this on package units installed on adapter curbs that gave me about 4 feet of riser so if it clogged at the trap, the pressure was about 1.75 pounds from the weight of the water and would blow itself out - self cleaning. I would imagine this would work great on a residential application with the unit installed in an attic and the trap at the ground level, 15 feet will give about 6.5 psi

Originally Posted by jjacochran

I use a sludge sucker but a Waterhouse works best just push water up pipe until you get a good head on it and release. Clean water will flow causing a vacuum and pull all kinds of gunk out behind it.

that's what i used to do, works great

I usually just pour a gallon of draino in. A wicked awesome plumber gawd told me is the best way ever.

Unbelievable. Just pour one to two cups of bleach in the drain line at the coil. It will clean out in 5 min on it's own.

Then check the slope and make sure you have a minimum of 1/4" slope all the way to the drain termination to avoid future fungi growth in the pipe stopping it up. Simple. Thank you very much

Don't let'em hassle/DISCOURAGE you, Please "TRY AGAIN"

Way To Fail

Originally Posted by rmdean

vacuum, not vacume

Both suc...............

vacuum, not vacume

I believe the OP's device is using the venturi effect. You old school auto mechanic's remember a carburetor don't you? The high pressure CO2/Nitro traveling down his one foot tube is creating a low pressure area behind it. Thus pulling all the gunk from the outdoor drain line (and splattering all over the wall). Very clever using inexpensive parts.