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Last year someone called me - a trap leaking under a sink. I was busy that weekend so I said to put a pot or something under there to catch the water and make sure it doesn't overflow. I'll get to it when I get there.

In sailing there is a kind of tape (I think it' silicone) which is often used to cover rigging parts which might otherwise catch and tear a sail. It sort of melds together and forms a continuous 'skin' from all the overlapping wraps. I have always called it: Rigging Tape.

I get there and the guy has neatly and securely wrapped everything from the wall stub, including the entire trap, all the way up to the tailpiece with that same tape.

Well; it's not leaking Now, is it? <g> How is it that you happened to have rigging tape?

What's rigging tape?

(pointing) That tape you used - that's rigging tape. Do you sail?

A boat? No; what are you talking about?

Where did you get that tape?

The hardware store. I told the guy the problem and he sold me that tape. He said it would work temporarily - and he was right: it hasn't leaked a drop.

OK; call me if it ever does.

Aren't you going to fix it?

It's fixed already.

But that's just tape.

No: that is Rigging Tape dud - it ain't gonna leak again! <g>

At the store they told me it was "plumbing repair tape". <g>

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Before I saw that it never occurred to me to use rigging tape for leak repairs. <g>

PHM
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Originally Posted by madhat

I used Gorilla Glue 100% Silicone Caulk. It will stick to plastic, if the plastic is New, as in an Acrylic Sheet, I use 600 Grit Sandpaper to roughen up just the Caulk area. Haven’t had a drop of water since.

I used Gorilla Glue 100% Silicone Caulk. It will stick to plastic, if the plastic is New, as in an Acrylic Sheet, I use 600 Grit Sandpaper to roughen up just the Caulk area. Haven’t had a drop of water since.

What are the situations that a deep trap resolves?

Originally Posted by HVAC_Marc

. . . . A deep trap is usually more of a problem than it solves. (there are certain situations that a deep trap resolves) . . .

Mrdrains and johma. Good Morning and welcome to the site. you do realize this is a 3 year old thread you are answering. I had no clue what I responded or said until I re-read the thread. Chances are the person you are making the comment to is no longer here. My suggestion if you read an old thread and have a question or comment start a new thread and you will likely get some current comment

Welcome

try to use some rubber gasket. if not work go to plumber.

If your sink is blocked then its very easy to check the problem. Very first you have to check weather the sink pipe is total blocked or it half blocked and leaking from the joints. If you pipe is totally blocked just open the bottom pipe joint so if its having something here you can remove it and pour some water to free the block. Another area you need to check is the sink pipe connected with internal drainage line, some times this place gets full of vegetable wast, detergents and other fats. If it is partially blocked, you need to just pour high pressure water which may temporary solve your problem. Doing all such processes and still your sink is running slow or remain blocked then you need to call out drainage specialist.

About the type of joints regarding fixture traps:

From the IPC:

Fixture traps.

Each plumbing fixture shall be separately trapped by a liquid-seal trap, except as otherwise permitted by this code. The vertical distance from the fixture outlet to the trap weir shall not exceed 24 inches (610 mm), and the horizontal distance shall not exceed 30 inches (610 mm) measured from the centerline of the fixture outlet to the centerline of the inlet of the trap.

Design of traps.

Fixture traps shall be self-scouring. Fixture traps shall not have interior partitions, except where such traps are integral with the fixture or where such traps are constructed of an approved material that is resistant to corrosion and degradation. Slip joints shall be made with an approved elastomeric gasket and shall be installed only on the trap inlet, trap outlet and within the trap seal.

Trap seals.

Each fixture trap shall have a liquid seal of not less than 2 inches (51 mm) and not more than 4 inches (102
mm), or deeper for special designs relating to accessible fixtures.

There was another one I cant reference quickly (it may have been in my NYS code book) where it said compression type fittings are prohibited after a trap. This rule would make all multi-piece p-trap assemblies illegal, yet the inspectors want them installed.

HVAC-Marc no offense taken and none ment.

You are 100% correct while the International and Uniform codes what in the books are the same everywhere, but they are interpeted and enforced differently throughout the whole contry. Just as an example these plastic drain pieces we are talking about. In my home area are illegal for me as a licensed Plumbing Contractor to install any of those parts. I must use Bronze, Bronze with chrome plating or I can use schedule 40 PVC and it must be glued joints. I am allowed only 3 slip joint for any trap. That's just the way this city has decided to enforce the code, next city over could care less

We make decisions and determination on what we believe something is based on the pictures and what is written in every post. I can write something and think I have made absolutely crytal clear. Then you get a response totaly from left field, like where in the heck did you get that idea from. As for this application I see a copper drain stub with a standard laundry drain and a clothes washer next to it. looks like a thousand other laundry tubs I've seen in a residential application

"he worst is flex seal or home depot epoxy. i had to deal with epoxy the other day. on a water line. i had to chisel the epoxy off,"

Geez, what an idiot, everyone knows you're supposed to use JB Weld.

Originally Posted by rcstl

Different materials, different compressibility. It will generally be user error. I like the ones that are covered with silicone, or plumbers putty and still leak until they call me. haha. I think the prime reason here was the bad angle.

the worst is flex seal or home depot epoxy. i had to deal with epoxy the other day. on a water line. i had to chisel the epoxy off, then it took literally 15 seconds to braze over the split.

Originally Posted by HVAC_Marc

like i said, one is fixed, the other is not. the joint has the same angle of seal, same connection type, same function.

Different materials, different compressibility. It will generally be user error. I like the ones that are covered with silicone, or plumbers putty and still leak until they call me. haha. I think the prime reason here was the bad angle.

Originally Posted by Poodle Head Mikey

Well . . . . the end with the 90º bend in it is a union-nut joint - and the other end is a slip-nut joint. That is at least a Little difference. <g>

PHM
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like i said, one is fixed, the other is not. the joint has the same angle of seal, same connection type, same function.

Well . . . . the end with the 90º bend in it is a union-nut joint - and the other end is a slip-nut joint. That is at least a Little difference. <g>

PHM
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Originally Posted by HVAC_Marc

there is little difference between the fixed coned end and the movable gasket end. both get squeezed by the compression nut, hence the term compression joint. the difference in the sealing surface is ONLY that one is molded and one is a separate piece.

Originally Posted by Answer-Man

Look I'm not arguing that a deep trap can't be used in special situations. The OP stated he's not a plumber and is very inexperienced in doing this type of work. You even said yourself deep traps cause more problems.... The OP assembled it wrong.

As to your question:
As deisgned and provided for in the manufactures installation recommendations for the appliance. Manufacturer directions are the only thing that allows me to deviate from the printed code. In my area when the inspection is done the inspector will make a note in the property file record for future reference. I'll accept I'm wrong but based on code documentation or manufactures instruction. If you can provide either please do, then we will all learn something new.

Good luck time to go home

I was just curious how we determined that it wasnt a special situation. I think the other specific forums (plumbing, electrical) should be regulated like AOP because, like this situation, it's DIY and codes differ everywhere.

Deep traps tend to leak. Mainly because the compression nuts are rarely tight enough.

The OP's biggest issue was not cutting down the basket connector, which dropped the trap too far, and the angle was wrong.

We are all trying to help (and in my case, pointing out some other views). I have no issue with you.

Look I'm not arguing that a deep trap can't be used in special situations. The OP stated he's not a plumber and is very inexperienced in doing this type of work. You even said yourself deep traps cause more problems.... The OP assembled it wrong.

As to your question:
As deisgned and provided for in the manufactures installation recommendations for the appliance. Manufacturer directions are the only thing that allows me to deviate from the printed code. In my area when the inspection is done the inspector will make a note in the property file record for future reference. I'll accept I'm wrong but based on code documentation or manufactures instruction. If you can provide either please do, then we will all learn something new.

Good luck time to go home

Originally Posted by rcstl

PHM, you are right, that sh!t is just bass-ackwards. The coned end is meant to be crushed by the nut and the threaded end is meant to have a coned gasket.

there is little difference between the fixed coned end and the movable gasket end. both get squeezed by the compression nut, hence the term compression joint. the difference in the sealing surface is ONLY that one is molded and one is a separate piece.

Originally Posted by Poodle Head Mikey

Sir,

It is my position that, in the second pic from the top - the non-U piece is attached incorrectly. With it's ends switched.

Here; I'll try to just include that one pic - wish me luck.

PHM
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PHM, you are right, that sh!t is just bass-ackwards. The coned end is meant to be crushed by the nut and the threaded end is meant to have a coned gasket.

Originally Posted by Answer-Man

Yes deep traps can be used in special situation but this is not a special situation.

This was determined, how?

Just happen to have an international plumbing code book handy. 1002.4 Trap Seals: Each trap shall have a liquid seal not less than than 2 inched and no more than 4 inches. Pretty sure the uniform code book say something very simialr The trap is assembled incorrectly. Yes deep traps can be used in special situation but this is not a special situation. Cut the tail piece, flip the horizontal arm around and trim the end off will take a whole 5 minutes to fix

I put the picture in my album.