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Originally Posted by ammoniadog

Can I ask how you do this? Are you taking standard Raychem or similar heat cable and just stuffing it thru 3/4 copper or pvc, or you using bigger pipe?

Do you use a fish tape, or are you able to stuff the cable thru the pipe without it?

Do you build the drain line first and then stuff the cable thru it, or do you build it little by little and pull the cable thru as you go.

I am intrigued. Thanks.

On 1” or larger, we can usually just push (or pull with fish tape) it through. Depends on how long and how many ells. On ¾”, have to assemble the line and run tape at the same time, as it is difficult to push/pull through the small elbows.

Others have mentioned that with ¾” you will have plugged drains, but I’ve never seen it. We started doing heat tape inside after talking to a colleague who has been doing it for many years with great results.

Originally Posted by GenesisRefrig

I used to put heat tape on the outside of the drain line, but lately, we’ve been running all our self-regulating heat tape inside the drains. Sometimes copper, sometimes pvc. Insulate Pipe good, miter your insulation at corners and power up the heat tape all the time.

Get ready for some plugged drain lines, I've had several this year. Ripped it out and put it on the outside with copper pipe.

Running it inside is not allowed in most chain stores, Walmart, target Kroger etc.

Originally Posted by 2sac

I'd go one step further and wire the heater direct to the power for the coil rather than an outlet.

As far as pvc drains, I'd prefer running the heat tape on the inside of the drain rather than the outside.

I'm OK with it inside if you also up size the drain line. 3/4 drain with a heat tape inside will plug in short order.

We always use a 6w tape and run it out to the end and back at 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock on the pipe. Way faster than wrapping and works fine, pipe stays nice and warm. Use 1" wall insulation around it and drill your exit hole in the box large enough to slide the insulated pipe through.

And yes, hardwire it got all the time, no gfi.

Originally Posted by GenesisRefrig

I used to put heat tape on the outside of the drain line, but lately, we’ve been running all our self-regulating heat tape inside the drains. Sometimes copper, sometimes pvc. Insulate Pipe good, miter your insulation at corners and power up the heat tape all the time.

Can I ask how you do this? Are you taking standard Raychem or similar heat cable and just stuffing it thru 3/4 copper or pvc, or you using bigger pipe?

Do you use a fish tape, or are you able to stuff the cable thru the pipe without it?

Do you build the drain line first and then stuff the cable thru it, or do you build it little by little and pull the cable thru as you go.

I am intrigued. Thanks.

I used to put heat tape on the outside of the drain line, but lately, we’ve been running all our self-regulating heat tape inside the drains. Sometimes copper, sometimes pvc. Insulate Pipe good, miter your insulation at corners and power up the heat tape all the time.

I believe Frost Tex puts out 6 watts per ft at max. Not enough to worry about

Originally Posted by BobFrost

Very clever.

For you guys that run the drain pipe heater all the time, aren't you adding that extra heat load to the evaporator?

The heat tape doesnt put out enough BTus to matter. Plus its insulated so the heat should be retained into the drain line, not released into the freezer space

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Originally Posted by Red Man

I’ve run on the inside of copper drains before. On one job, a large warehouse freezer, I’ve ran two through and hooked up one. That way if one fails, the maintenance guys can hook up the other one.

Very clever.

For you guys that run the drain pipe heater all the time, aren't you adding that extra heat load to the evaporator?

Yes this one that brought up this question just had it landing on the evaporator terminal board where the evaporator heaters are landing. The heater is coiled around the drain with pretty tight coils and is very tight on the pipe. then did a thin wrap of foam tape then put 3/4 wall insulation over that. we will just say I really hope im not the one that has to change the heater when it does fail. Sorry to the next guy.

I’ve run on the inside of copper drains before. On one job, a large warehouse freezer, I’ve ran two through and hooked up one. That way if one fails, the maintenance guys can hook up the other one.

I like the idea of running the heat tape on the inside of PVC drains

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Originally Posted by ritchy.wall

The reason I’m asking, unless you pull another Conductor you heater will only be on during defrost or freeze cycle.
That’s just the way I have encountered it many times, defrost heater comes on during Defrost, wired to the same terminals as coil defrost heaters and causing drain freeze up problems, especially if insulation quality gets compromised.





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You're not wiring it to the heaters. It's common on reach ins to energize the drain heater during the defrost. I think this is only done to be energy compliant. There is voltage in your fan circuit roughly 23 hours a day.

We typically use 120V Raychem self regulating heat trace. We stock rolls of it at the shop and termination kits so it can be cut to length. We have it on a separate circuit from the evap. Use copper drains and insulate well.

Wire in freeze cycle. Not needed with warm water flowing

The reason I’m asking, unless you pull another Conductor you heater will only be on during defrost or freeze cycle.
That’s just the way I have encountered it many times, defrost heater comes on during Defrost, wired to the same terminals as coil defrost heaters and causing drain freeze up problems, especially if insulation quality gets compromised.

Originally Posted by 2sac

Use a 6w 240v Raychem heater designed for wet areas. Raychem also sells different connectors and ends to make custom lengths. Connect to your evaporator terminal strip. Due to this being in an open forum, I cannot tell you which terminals, but if you can read a wiring diagram, you can figure it out.

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Originally Posted by ritchy.wall

Are you pulling an extra conductor in that case to make sure that the heater I always on or what are your connection points inside the Evap Coil?





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Use a 6w 240v Raychem heater designed for wet areas. Raychem also sells different connectors and ends to make custom lengths. Connect to your evaporator terminal strip. Due to this being in an open forum, I cannot tell you which terminals, but if you can read a wiring diagram, you can figure it out.

Are you pulling an extra conductor in that case to make sure that the heater I always on or what are your connection points inside the Evap Coil?

Originally Posted by 2sac

I'd go one step further and wire the heater direct to the power for the coil rather than an outlet.

As far as pvc drains, I'd prefer running the heat tape on the inside of the drain rather than the outside.

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Originally Posted by UmmScott

I would for sure get rid of whatever is cycling it on and off and wire it to be on 24/7.

Freezer drains SUCK to redo. One of the worst jobs in my opinion right behind door frame heaters. So if you're gonna fix it, fix it good and right so you only have to do it once.
Wire it hot 24/7. If its on a GFI get it off the GFI and on a standard outlet. I have had so many nuisance GFI trips for no reason that have caused problems on new installs.
If ANY of the insulation is wet, its trash and needs to be thrown out. Thoroughly check the drain and run water down it. Any broken sections either repair or replace. Use copper! Best heat transfer for the heat tape.
Buy good quality heat tape. We use Raychem from our supplier.
Some guys just run the heat tape along the bottom of the drain. We wrap it around the pipe all the way up to the evap drain fitting. Where the drain line exits the freezer it should be trapped before heading to the drain. The trap should have heat tape around it as well. Dont put the trap inside the freezer, the trap needs to be outside the box of the freezer.

Insulate the drain line good and tight. For a 0F box use 1/2 wall. For lower box temp use 3/4 wall.

Thats my input for drain line/heater repair. Cheers man!

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I'd go one step further and wire the heater direct to the power for the coil rather than an outlet.

As far as pvc drains, I'd prefer running the heat tape on the inside of the drain rather than the outside.

Originally Posted by UmmScott

I would for sure get rid of whatever is cycling it on and off and wire it to be on 24/7.

Freezer drains SUCK to redo. One of the worst jobs in my opinion right behind door frame heaters. So if you're gonna fix it, fix it good and right so you only have to do it once.
Wire it hot 24/7. If its on a GFI get it off the GFI and on a standard outlet. I have had so many nuisance GFI trips for no reason that have caused problems on new installs.
If ANY of the insulation is wet, its trash and needs to be thrown out. Thoroughly check the drain and run water down it. Any broken sections either repair or replace. Use copper! Best heat transfer for the heat tape.
Buy good quality heat tape. We use Raychem from our supplier.
Some guys just run the heat tape along the bottom of the drain. We wrap it around the pipe all the way up to the evap drain fitting. Where the drain line exits the freezer it should be trapped before heading to the drain. The trap should have heat tape around it as well. Dont put the trap inside the freezer, the trap needs to be outside the box of the freezer.

Insulate the drain line good and tight. For a 0F box use 1/2 wall. For lower box temp use 3/4 wall.

Thats my input for drain line/heater repair. Cheers man!

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