If the schrader is leaking, replace it. You can put leak lock on the threads, but it's a little messy.

 

If the schrader valve is leaking, a tech can generally replace it with a special tool that keeps the system sealed. (and thus the repair is affordable). Then you should put on a new cap and tighten it to the manufacturers specs. (usually finger tight + 1/8 turn).

No sealent needed or recommended!!

 

I agree. I don't personally recommend using the leak lock, it's just an option. I personally only use brass seal caps(no plastic caps).

 

Change out the schrader valve core and put a metal cap on it with an o ring in it, do not use a thread sealer.

Whenever I service a unit I put metal caps with o rings on the service valves.

 

Schrader not leaking,just under caps on top of allen valves,what kind of leak lock, rector seal brand is what I use but I am still geting a bubble on the high side.

 

What brand and model???
How old?

I know of one brand that had a REWORK/RECALL for that type of problem.


.

 

I've had some luck using a combination of teflon tape and pipe dope on some, leak lock on others. And I've had to just replace the service valves on a few that somebody overheated so bad that nothing would work. How old is the unit?

 

Its a goodman heat pump 13 seer , 3yrs old still under parts warranty, don't know who installed it, they must have not used thermal block when they brazed it in, Carrier used to have some awsome stuff almost like painting it on I can't recall the brand name of the stuff. I only replace the vaves as a last resort its so cold outside.

 

You mean this stuff? Works great but the caps can be a bear to get off later.

 

I'd say close them, and open then all but like a 1/4 turn from the top. Goodman valves aren't supposed to be open 100%

 

Allen valves???

Sounds like a DIY question to me.

 

For me, Leak Lock is a last resort.

I put a drop of oil inside the cap and a drop on the threads, then work the cap back and forth a little to get it seated and the oil distributed before the final tightening.

If it still leaks I make a gasket. NAPA auto parts sells 1/32 high density gasket material that works for refrigerant gasketing. Doing commercial work I have had numerous occasions of needing to make a gasket so I have a good pair of scissors, a compass, and an inexpensive hole punch kit.

 

This is an ongoing problem with G-man. The valves, of course, are oriental. Goodman will recommend using leak-lock. They also have a set of replacement king caps that have an integral o-ring seal that is supposed to hold back the refrigerant from the poorly manufactured service valve. More quality, customer service and support from the industry leader.

 

If the leak is bad enough replace the valve. I say caps are for dust not to hold back pressure especially if 410.

 

Goodman actually put out a bulletin about their valves. You have to unseat them all the way, then back-seat them a few turns. This will stop the leak. The key is dont front seat them completely.

 

supposedly the cap is a knife edge seal, and is supposed to be air tight. Running the valve in and out a few times before back -seating them usually stops the leak. If you've ever had one of them apart, there are or is orings, and they are leakers especially if you get too much heat to em on the initial hook up.

 

If it leaks then the valve should be replaced. Leak lock, seating and un seating it, blah blah. Its a leak, replace it with a part that doesnt leak. If Goodman service valves leak then I wouldnt use them.

Unseat them? Leak lock? Bulletins stating this? One of the many reasons we dont sell that crap anymore. Sell it cheap, end up losing any profit doing warranty work.

 

Yeah, its a shame when the manufacturer has to tell you how to get their valves to stop leaking. But, all manufacturers have their quirks. This particular problem has cost us probably a few g's in warranty work. The worst so far was when a compressor burnt up due to low charge because of their valves leaking, the unit didnt have a low pressure switch. In the end, the Goodman unit is OK, but taking a loss is still annoying. If they would stop selling to homeowners and unlicensed individuals as well, their reputation would improve. Maybe they should come up with a new brand name and line of equipment, tailered only to licensed contractors. Sort of like the major manufacturers do, they actually realize it is a win win situation for everybody. If I was the manufacturer, I wouldnt want to eat all the warranty parts, due to faulty installs. But, in the end they are driven by money.

 

there is some good gasket/thred sealent that i picked up a a supply house that seems to work pritty well. called nylog by refrigerantion technologies. its both cfc and hcfc compatible