Trane XL16i not cooling properly, runs all the time

[dapper9030]

I purchased this 5 ton TRANE XL16i unit a little over 2 years ago and it has never worked properly.
The problem I am having is that on warmer days the unit will run non-stop for 6-8 hours or more. Then when it does finally turn off (usually around 12:30am) it turns back on 10 minutes later. (Cooler months it seems to work ok.)Though here in South Florida we don"t get to many of them!

The company who installed it has been out 17+ times as well as a rep. from Trane who was out twice,(yes 17+ times and now that their 2 year service contract is up they won’t come out without charging me, go figure) and no one can figure out what is causing this. I even called another company out and they couldn't explain it either.

I have the T-stat set to come on at 3:30 to go to 74 degrees from 76 degrees. It will run a couple hours the and reach 74 or 75 degrees then, one minute the t-stat will read 75 degrees with 39% humidity then the next minute it may read 79 degrees with 53% . Sometimes it will also be set to 74 degrees and the t-stat will read 74 with 39% yet it will still keep running for hours(4 or more) without shutting off. They have replaced the t-stat twice and it still did the same thing. All the pressures checked out per spec. too, so they all said.

I took some amp readings and found the following, the unit name plate says LRA is 118, when it starts the LRA draws 111.3, the name plate RLA is 25.6 unit draws 15.2 amps (not sure way this is so low I would have thought it would be closer to the name plate, the voltage reading is 239 v. I also have rolled insulation in the attic and had more insulation blown in on top. Duct work is tight as well. Windows are tinted impact glass and keep all the blinds closed during the day as well.

Any help with this would be great I just can't take another $475.00 electric bill. So much for a High Efficiency Unit! Should have kept my old Rheem unit It cooled my home great without any problems and that unit was 12 years old!!!!

[pepster2]

Sounds so much like what we age going through her in Central Florida. Unit 1 month old and same issues. Reps tell me what it is doing is normal when really hot outside. Programmable thermostat is of no use if this is the case. We had a 13 year old Reem that worked great. Starting to thin Trane is not so hot

[spymoocow]

The unit is operating at its max capacity for the temperature outside. on a trane like this it should be mid to high 90's...

[beenthere]

Dapper, post your outdoor and indoor model numbers.

[Coolmaniac]

And square footage of your castle

First a couple answers, then a couple suggestions. As far as the amp readings, lock rotor doesn't matter as its for such a short period. Running or Rated Load Amps is a peak value and is very rarely even approached in residential units. Assuming your system is using R-22 the amp draw sounds about right if it was a bit warm outside when you took it. Your old one probably ran at 21 to 24 with an RLA of 30. But neither reading has anything to do with when or how long the system runs.

I'm not too familiar with some of the new wall mounted PCs they're calling thermostats, but its what is supposed to tell the unit when to run, and when to stop. But its hard to think that 2 different companies, and a factory rep could check and still not find something. What comes to mind is my recent experience with a new video recorder I couldn't get to work, tried to take it back, was tested found to be fine, and how I missed that one button on the TV I'd never used before, DUUUUH. And I built the PC I'm typing on, Reread the manual for the T-stat.

Try using the T-stat without the time functions or if you're sure you're using the T-stat right and it still don't work, my best guess would be the furnace board, as its the only other control in there.


As far as not keeping up, your last unit probably didn't either on those extreme days. 5 ton is the largest single unit for residential. It may be more humid than you remember, and that beats the crap out of the capacity, as its using a lot to remove water from the air.

[beenthere]

Or it may be that many of the new high efficiency 5 ton units, don't have teh same capacity of the old 5 ton units.

[Skip 2 my lou]

Originally Posted by beenthere

Or it may be that many of the new high efficiency 5 ton units, don't have teh same capacity of the old 5 ton units.

Not the infamous 5 ton condenser with the 48000 compressor!!!!!!!!!

Holy mytical tonnage Batman!

[Airmechanical]

IMO, here is my take on the 16i

the engineering and design of the 16i with its "different" control voltage wiring and its lack of ability to use BK to dehumidify

along with the 80%/100% stages may turn out to be Trane's biggest modern day "anti-design"

it would of been expensive but smart for Trane with this 16i design to incorporated a new ecm control board and motor module

which would allow the use of Y for high speed and Y-lo for low speed

this design change that "should have been done" would have automatically made BK available for extra dehumidification

aside from the comments i just made, maybe the o.p.'s system is undersized

we need to start sizing systems for higher outdoor ambient temps!



.

[beenthere]

Originally Posted by Airmechanical

aside from the comments i just made, maybe the o.p.'s system is undersized

we need to start sizing systems for higher outdoor ambient temps!

.

Companies need to stop using the Nominal rating, and actually looking at the performance specs.

Some companies that do use Manual J load calcs still don't check the units Sensible load capacity. They see the load calc say total load 3 tons, and don't look to see if the unit they selected can meet the sensible.
Then they go a round and say load calcs do work.


Its not needed to use higher OD design temps, Use the specs. A 3 ton that has a sensible capacity of 25,400 BTUs at 95OD and 80ID, may only have a sensible capacity of 20,190BTUs at 95OD and 70 ID.

Proper equipment selection. Even if it means not selling that high efficiency unit to meet the customers needs.

[dapper9030]

Originally Posted by beenthere

Dapper, post your outdoor and indoor model numbers.

Condenser model #4TTx6060B
Air Handler model #4TEE3F65A
SQFT is 2950 under air

Was wondering if its possible to bypass the low stage on the compressor and have it run on just the high stage?

I'm about ready to cut my losses on this unit and start shopping for a new unit cause this one is costing a small fortune on the electric.

[green jumper]

well the tstat issue is odd and should be looked at by a pro(another pro?)

How is the energy bill compared to last years energy bill with the older unit? Are you doing anything different as well, have you set your tstat lower this year because you got a new a/c?

The xl16 has two stages of cooling, the longer the unit runs the more efficent it is in cooling. The first stage might be matching the heat gain from the house and could never shut off till the night when it drops in temp. Thats a good thing. The cycling of a condenser on and off always cost you money.

If your system is installed properly the unit running as long as possible is a good thing and better for your wallet. A unit turning on and off is bad.

As far as common issues I've run across its usually the fan wiring. Wired for 50% instead of 80%.

[tigerdunes]

547107 Discontinued Systems XL16I TRANE 4TTX6060B1 4TEE3F65A1 58500 10.60 15.10 1

I would write Trane with copy to the dealer and ask that unit be replaced or fixed. one or the other. I am sure this system was not inexpensive and certainly by now, you should be satisfied. I don't like threats but legal action might have to be last resort and it looks like you are very close to reaching that point.

IMO

Numbers provided from AHRI Directory

[beenthere]

Its total capacity is ok. A little over 58,000. Don't have specs on it sensible capacity.

Can't say for Florida, but in my area, an A/C that tries to drop temp starting an 3:30PM is going to work hard and have a long run time.
Your stat may not be bringing on second stage as quick as it should if you have IA recovery enabled.

My own A/C is slightly over sized, and will take a little time to drop temp when its 90+ outside.

You need someone run a load calc, check for duct leaks, and check air flow.

How do your electric bills compare to the old Rheem unit. If you have copies of those old bills, check the KWH usage, since the rate may have gone up.