God Speed, Jim. We'll miss you - 2-26-23
LOL..Originally Posted by Mr Bill
Man Brother I think some of me is rubbing off on you, I don't know if thats good or bad.
Could be a combination of both.
Regular Member
His return duct's look more restrictive than mine and I have high static pressure.
I agree that is the best advice.... to get the static pressure checked to make sure you are getting the CFM's out and not shortening the life of the motor....
Key1
Professional Member
ughhhhhhhhhh........i haven't been coming here a long time but one thing is for sure.....i can't stand these type of threads.........just a bunch of desk jockeys killing some guys work....some may enjoy making themselves feel better by picking apart some other guys work apart.....constructive criticism i can see but nit picking it to death when the customer has no complaints is a waste of time IMHO.
"The things you own end up owning you. "
Tyler Durden
Professional Member*
But it is a concern. You and I can not dictate that for the life of that furnace that the condensate drain will always be positive or trapped with water or any other condition, as odd and far fetched as it may seem, that may happen in it's life expentacy or lack of maintenance.
The drain is even more positive if the trap is dry, say, during winter. The furnace drain is also a positive source because it's directly inline with the draft inducer in some way or manner.
Therefore there is a one to one mechanical connection, which doesn't and shouldn't be there.
Maybe it's a one in a million chance but allowing the condensate drain to be mechanically connected to the furnace drain allows for that one in a million time when things don't go according to the book or our theories.
A simple air gap between the two lines after the condensate trap will solve that problem. Or run the two seperately.
"The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers it can bribe the public with the public's own money.
- Alexis de Toqueville, 1835
Professional Member
Most of it is housekeeping issues with a few exceptions. The gas line I wouldn't leave like that long enough to walk to the truck. Some things the other guys mentioned I didn't pick up on myself so I learned something.
I would just suggest to the OP that what you are witnessing in this thread is how we collectively push each other to a higher level in what we do. There isn't quite as much malice here as it might seem. This is what we do, then we all come out of the woodwork to try to help each other in a bind... I see it over and over.
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God Speed, Jim. We'll miss you - 2-26-23
The trap won't always have water in it. In the winter the A/C condensate drain won't.
But by the time it dries out, the furnace condensate trap will be full.
The A/C trap will always have a positive pressure when the blower motor is running.
Most manufacturers approve that drain set up.
If you plan for the 1 in a million on every install. Then no one will be able to afford to have anything installed.
Regular Guest
True story man. I've always kept the mindset while working that someone's around ready to critique everything I do. As time goes on, I notice myself trying to make every job a little better than the last one. Appearance isn't hard to accomplish and little things like level piping and neat wiring go a long way to the untrained eye. (Meaning the customer, aka, the one paying the bill.) It's your self respect and integrity that will lead you to perform the important (technical) parts of the install. The customer only see's two things, the finished work, and the bill.
Professional Member*
Don't know of any other way to explain this; that mechanically connection of the two circuits together -- the burner/flue circuit and the air supplied to the interior of the residence -- is not a good thing in any form.
Price is not an issue cause seperating now or installing originally, the two circuits would take a matter of minutes and dollars.
Appreciate the input though.
"The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers it can bribe the public with the public's own money.
- Alexis de Toqueville, 1835
God Speed, Jim. We'll miss you - 2-26-23
I'm not saying that seperate connections wouldn't be better.
But what was installed is an approved method.
Regular Guest
My big beef is the dryer vent. Those spine fins are a real pita to clean when they're jammed up nice with lint. The dryer vent is alot easier to move than the cond is.
Smaller beef. It would have been just as easy to drop TWO cond drains into the pump.
Medium sized beef with the disconnect. Especially if I have to risk closing a circuit with my elbow or forearm between the disconn and the grounded condenser. (At least I hope it's grounded, no joking there)
Finally, big red tag beef. How's that second stage reg doing. the vent should be 10 FEET away from the cond, not 10 inches. Big time fail around here.
God Speed, Jim. We'll miss you - 2-26-23
Here its 36" for the reg/vent.
A torch makes short work of lint with those spiney fins.
Regular Guest
Here, it's 36" to a window/door, and 10' to a source of ignition.
On edit: BUT, lol, you can slap a ss reg on the side of a 400kBtu pool heater ( 18" away from 600deg exhaust), and nobody will say boo. go figure.
I've used the torch on spines plugged with cottonwood, but never wanted to try it on lint figuring it would melt and stick to the coil even worse. I'll have to give it a go next spine cleaning.
Regular Guest
I am concerned about this, but I can't think of anywhere to vent the dryer. I suppose I could move the vent over to the other side of the window, but that would only be moving it like 18 inches. Doubt that would be worth the trouble. I am open to suggestions on this problem.
This will be up to the inspector. If he fails it, the disconnect will need to be moved.
Same thing as the disconnect, if it fails it will need to be moved. Not sure what you mean by "second stage reg", is that the vent to the outside?
Assuming the vent needs to be moved, what are the codes? Are they limited to how many feet the run can be? How many 45s or 90s are allowed? What is the required rise? I'm just trying to get an idea on where it would need to be moved to.
Thanks.
Professional Member
If you have the installation guide that the unit came with...... all those clearances are in there.
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Professional Member*
it looks like there are a few issues as mentioned already the disconnect could cause a turn down on inspection i cant commet on the furnace drain because here in south Texas 90% furnaces are very rare, but over all nice install and very nice equipment you should notice a nice savings on you utility bill ,one other thing if you did noy get the 10 parts and labor warranty i would
Regular Guest
The left a bunch of paperwork with me. I'll look through it to see if I have the install guide.
I went with the 90% because I was told the 80% would have to be vented differently. And the cost to vent the 80 would push it close to the 90 so I might as well get the 90. I am hoping to save a least 50 bucks per month during cooling season. My old AC unit was probably about a negative 2 seer. lol Yes, I got the 10 year P&L warranty. That was very important to me.
Membership Committee*
Twilli says you could have saved money and reused the ultra vent
No Heat No Cool You need Action Fast
Regular Guest
I wanted to just hook a garden hose to it and let it vent under the garage door. But they wouldn't do it.
Regular Guest
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Professional Member*
So are we there yet? I would had hired all the critics here and you would have had the perfect a/c and heating system installation.
Or this guy below would have done you a mighty fine job also:
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“Experience is a hard teacher because she gives the test first, the lesson afterwards" ~ Vernon Law
"It's what you learn after you know it all that counts." ~ John Wooden
"When the teachers become unteachable we're all in trouble" ~ Mr. Bill
"Remember "Pro" is only a name, it's not always a mindset determined to do everything correctly" ~ Mr. Bill
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