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Thread: Possible restriction or bad compressor

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm View Post
    Then you've never gotten it right, friend.

    If the sightglass is not clear, you have not proven a proper liquid seal in the receiver, nor have you proven a solid column of liquid to the TXV.

    For a typical, conventional system with a receiver and a sightglass, charge to clear the glass, then add any required flooding charge as needed.

    It is as simple as that.
    Jp you're not gonna throw down your link to the sporlan site to how to properly charge a headmaster? Or was it a Copeland bulletin?

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm View Post
    Then you've never gotten it right, friend.

    If the sightglass is not clear, you have not proven a proper liquid seal in the receiver, nor have you proven a solid column of liquid to the TXV.

    For a typical, conventional system with a receiver and a sightglass, charge to clear the glass, then add any required flooding charge as needed.

    It is as simple as that.
    If you charge to clear glass with a 65 degree box and then valves throttle down as box reaches temp you're going to stack.liquid and.end.up with high receiver level. My experience may come from 120-130 rooftops in summer and 30's in coldest winter but this is what works for us. Of course you have to have clear sight glass that is not what is being debated just how we get to the same end result.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by mizzterclean View Post
    If you charge to clear glass with a 65 degree box and then valves throttle down as box reaches temp you're going to stack.liquid and.end.up with high receiver level. My experience may come from 120-130 rooftops in summer and 30's in coldest winter but this is what works for us. Of course you have to have clear sight glass that is not what is being debated just how we get to the same end result.
    same if you have a walk in with a serious restriction in the tev. you clear that glass & even think about adding winter charge you will shut off on high head before you pump down.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by mizzterclean View Post
    If you charge to clear glass with a 65 degree box and then valves throttle down as box reaches temp you're going to stack.liquid and.end.up with high receiver level. My experience may come from 120-130 rooftops in summer and 30's in coldest winter but this is what works for us. Of course you have to have clear sight glass that is not what is being debated just how we get to the same end result.
    Then you watch the unit until it reaches temp.

    This is the only way to properly charge this unit. Especially if it is an outdoor unit with a headmaster.



  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm View Post
    This is completely incorrect.

    You MUST maintain a liquid seal in the receiver AT ALL TIMES!


    If you do not have a liquid seal, then you are undercharged.

    http://www.sporlanonline.com/90-30-1.htm

    Please stop such disinformation.
    Quote Originally Posted by ryan1088 View Post
    Jp you're not gonna throw down your link to the sporlan site to how to properly charge a headmaster? Or was it a Copeland bulletin?
    Already did.




    This should be laminated and put in EVERY refrigeration service truck.



  6. #46
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    So...What's the verdict?
    Officially, Down for the count

    YOU HAVE TO GET OFF YOUR ASS TO GET ON YOUR FEET

    I know enough to know, I don't know enough
    Why is it that those who complain the most contribute the least?
    MONEY CAN'T BUY HAPPINESS. POVERTY CAN'T BUY ANYTHING

  7. #47
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    Thread Starter
    kink.... LOL... Once I got to the place early morning I put unit back and to see whats it doin...

    Same thing as I left it over the weekend.. Low pressure 15 high side 120... My reciver was hot so was my headmaster. I didnt want to mess with headmaster cuz i am not very fimiliar with it any way... I pumped down all my refrigerent into reciver and fixed that kink... Once I finished with my leak check and vaccum I put it back on.. Low side 40 high side 130... I charged my unit until my sight glass is clear and my high side was 180 and my low side is 55.. My abient was 70. BUT I DONT KNOW IF I DID FIX THE ISSUE... I checked all my electrical components.. capacitors .... My #3 wire on compressor is still reading 5.. all other onces are 14... My reciver was not hot nor my headmaster was... I am getting hot air from condensor.. I hope i dont get a call back LOL..

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by otto8
    kink.... LOL... Once I got to the place early morning I put unit back and to see whats it doin...

    Same thing as I left it over the weekend.. Low pressure 15 high side 120... My reciver was hot so was my headmaster. I didnt want to mess with headmaster cuz i am not very fimiliar with it any way... I pumped down all my refrigerent into reciver and fixed that kink... Once I finished with my leak check and vaccum I put it back on.. Low side 40 high side 130... I charged my unit until my sight glass is clear and my high side was 180 and my low side is 55.. My abient was 70. BUT I DONT KNOW IF I DID FIX THE ISSUE... I checked all my electrical components.. capacitors .... My #3 wire on compressor is still reading 5.. all other onces are 14... My reciver was not hot nor my headmaster was... I am getting hot air from condensor.. I hope i dont get a call back LOL..
    You MUST add the proper flooding charge to consider it completely fixed.

    I posted Sporlan's 90-30-1 earlier in this thread.

    Print it, laminate it, learn it, live it.



  9. #49
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    By the way.


    Good catch.

    Way to stick with a problem, work it through and solve it.



  10. #50
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    Add some refrigerant to it, depending on how much the system holds, or if no data plate guess at it, then check out other stuff IMO. Week compressors, bad head masters are the most common problems I have seen, very rarely expansion valves. I like to use a scale to c how much freezon I'm a usen, kinda gives ya a round about. Ya never know what folks have done, sizeing and all, correct compressors with the evaps and temps it is to maintain. Seen a cooler compressor on a WIF this morning, glad its someones else's problem. I will say this usually a compressor is good if its a runnen, but everynow and then ya get one thats just not pumping to its capacity or is free wheelen,(broke crank), you'll c a lot if ya do this stuff enough. When free wheelen you'll have no pumping what so ever and week compressor is high suction and low head pressure, but ya never know, I have been doing this type of work for 12 year and c something new quite often, it keeps me interested to say the least.
    There are three signs of old age.
    The first is your loss of memory,
    the other two I forget.


  11. #51
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    Awesome, dude. Glad you got it going. Thanks for posting back.

    BTW, where was this kink?

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by otto8 View Post
    I dont want to be parts changer. I would like to get this the fist time I go back to this service call on monday.

    Call from Philips 66 Gas Station. Reason for call: Walk in cooler warm. I will try to give you guys as much details as I can....

    When I arrived the first thing i check was my temp inside the walk in cooler. Temp is 65. I got two evap and each one got txv on it. Now that I know what I got inside I went outside to see my condensor. Everything is working but my suction line is not cold and my discharge is warm. Put my gauges on and found my suction at 20 psi and discharge at 120 psi. Looked at my sight glass and found it with lot of bubbes. I got excited I thought I know it was low on refrigerant. Put some R22 and watch my sight glass until it got all clear....My discharge pressure was still at 120..... So know I think I got restriction somewhere on my discharge line.. Hmm maybe txv or filter drier or maybe head master.... Checked my amps.. Three phase.. Check each wire to the compressor. one is 12. two 11 three 5....Hmm What else can i check.. oh yes let me see that txvs.. Put all the refrigerant in my reciver and checked my txvs.. I found the screens on txv half black and some small particals in it... Used my nitrogen to clean them out.. I can see through the screen. I think they are okay...Closed everything up. Recover all the refrigerant and pressurized it with nitrogen. NO LEAK. Pulled vaccum to 400 microns. New filter and refrigerant.... Charged the unit again.. Same issue my discharge is at 120 psi... What else can I do when I go back.. Possible kinck somewhere?? Compresor is bad... Never had to change headmaster before. Could this be possibilty??
    Just saying for example, if the head master (LAC) is good, there should be no way that you can get a clear sight glass without head press. increasing. A clear sight glass and proper head are inseparable.

  13. #53
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    Thread Starter
    Thanks to all of you for help.. I am glad that I found this website to learn about HVAC-R... Kink was located right after the reciever.. It was bend pretty bad.... Owner took copper pipe to show it to the other guys who worked for 3 weeks and never fix it... Do you think companies do this on purpose just to come back and make more money??.. This is new costumer I will go back for PM next week they have a lot of issues on the other eqiupemnt.. To me it seems like there is other issues on this unit. Once I go back I will make sure that it has all correct starting components and its the correct headmaster.. Now that we are working on it we will keep log of what we did on that unit.. Once again thax to all of you for help.. If I have more issues on this I will let you guys know

  14. #54
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    Thread Starter
    I have to get back to this issue again guys.. Its just for learning purposes... Walk in is working okay. I have talked to one of our top techs and he has told me something like this.......

    I will have to probably go back to this unit again. My headmaster is not letting me proparly charge beacuse it is still cold outside....

    I really never learned much about headmasters but now it seems I will have to...

    any thoughts on this????

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by otto8 View Post
    I have to get back to this issue again guys.. Its just for learning purposes... Walk in is working okay. I have talked to one of our top techs and he has told me something like this.......

    I will have to probably go back to this unit again. My headmaster is not letting me proparly charge beacuse it is still cold outside....

    I really never learned much about headmasters but now it seems I will have to...

    any thoughts on this????
    Quote Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm View Post
    The above linked document will tell you how to charge a headmaster under ANY ambient condition.

    It will take you a while the first few times that you do it, but it is not difficult nor terribly time consuming to do it once you get the hang of it.



  16. #56
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    Do you think companies do this on purpose just to come back and make more money??

    YES. or the tech if there is commissions involved.

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by otto8 View Post
    I dont want to be parts changer. I would like to get this the fist time I go back to this service call on monday.

    Call from Philips 66 Gas Station. Reason for call: Walk in cooler warm. I will try to give you guys as much details as I can....

    When I arrived the first thing i check was my temp inside the walk in cooler. Temp is 65. I got two evap and each one got txv on it. Now that I know what I got inside I went outside to see my condensor. Everything is working but my suction line is not cold and my discharge is warm. Put my gauges on and found my suction at 20 psi and discharge at 120 psi. Looked at my sight glass and found it with lot of bubbes. I got excited I thought I know it was low on refrigerant. Put some R22 and watch my sight glass until it got all clear....My discharge pressure was still at 120..... So know I think I got restriction somewhere on my discharge line.. Hmm maybe txv or filter drier or maybe head master.... Checked my amps.. Three phase.. Check each wire to the compressor. one is 12. two 11 three 5....Hmm What else can i check.. oh yes let me see that txvs.. Put all the refrigerant in my reciver and checked my txvs.. I found the screens on txv half black and some small particals in it... Used my nitrogen to clean them out.. I can see through the screen. I think they are okay...Closed everything up. Recover all the refrigerant and pressurized it with nitrogen. NO LEAK. Pulled vaccum to 400 microns. New filter and refrigerant.... Charged the unit again.. Same issue my discharge is at 120 psi... What else can I do when I go back.. Possible kinck somewhere?? Compresor is bad... Never had to change headmaster before. Could this be possibilty??
    Otto8,
    Glad to see that you solved the problem in the end.
    However,I don't think that this compressor is a 3 phase unit with the amps that you are pulling.
    That 5amp reading is probably the starting winding current due to the run capacitor.
    Somebody correct me if I'm wrong !

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