What kind of motors are they giving you, china special? If your drawing almost RLA with no load on it and wiring is fine, that's a real problem. If it were me, I would cross ref to another namebrand motor.
DeltaT, I have already performed a start-up and checked unit in all modes of operation. De-hum is not a problem, my excess heat is rejected into the pool as it was designed. This unit is also a geothermal heat pump. The belt drive blower is downstream of the coils, so in heating mode the motor's ambient reaches 115 F. Motor nameplate states max. ambient 40 C. (104 F). I questioned the manufacturer and got the stuttering, backtalking mumbo-jumbo I expected, with their best defense being, noone else has this problem.
They will not admit a design flaw. My customer has an automatic pool cover and sets back room temp while covered. Upon recovery of room temp, the heat cycle can last for hours. This is the only heat pump I have ever seen with the blower downstream of the coils.
My problem now is that a brand new motor, never seen a heating cycle, exhibits the exact same chartacteristics as its overheated predecessor.
What kind of motors are they giving you, china special? If your drawing almost RLA with no load on it and wiring is fine, that's a real problem. If it were me, I would cross ref to another namebrand motor.
What's the make and model of this unit? Something doesn't add up.
I think on your first post you mentioned too much humidity? You can't reset the air temp back if this is a typical pool dehumidification system as on reset the running of the compressor will overheat the pool water resulting in too much humidity and loss of the envelope control of the room.
Make and model of the unit to see the original design concept would be of great help.
"The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers it can bribe the public with the public's own money.
- Alexis de Toqueville, 1835
Try switching the wires on the capacitor and see if the amp draw goes down. You may need to go with a higher HP motor with the same RPM's.
Ten ft of wire, a terminal block and a contactor-plenty enough room for something going to ground causing high amps, but not enough to cause a voltage drop. Get a virgin supply of 240 going to it that motor-preferably at your shop for peace of mind-and if amps are normal go back and find that grounding issue. I'm no where near some of these other guys, or you probably, in experience. I do know that when something just don't make sense it's because something you're assuming to be right is not.
first two were emerson electric, most recent was G.E. side by side there is no difference between them besides the name on the nameplate. Probably supplied by one source(lowest chinese bidder) to both companies. Another name brand would be an option, but until I know for sure that I'm dealing with defective motors, I can't buy another. Thinking about bringing them home and wiring them into the disconnect for my welder. For now just trying to put it off until after the holidays. This whole job has dragged on for long enough. He can wait a couple more days.
Oh, and by the way, I just found out that the motor for the hydraulic pool cover burnt out as well. Has only been in two weeks and is used rarely for 30 seconds at a time. Coincidence, I think not. Okay, maybe- maybe not, just sounded good.
Thanks again for all the help and suggestions. still waiting for the Ah-HA moment and open to any Ideas or brainstorms to get there. Hope everyone has a good time over the next couple days. Happy holidays.
This is an E.P.S. Dry-Air unit. M# hd96, serial # in my van, I'll find that later. The pool cover is designed as a vapor barrier, and I was told by the engineer and read in job specs that the room temp can be set back to any desired temp as long as humidistat is kept at or below 60%. I'll be the first to admit pool rooms and natatoriums are not my specialty, but this sounded reasonable to me. The pool will not overheat because of heat rejection of this unit. Pool temp is monitored and I have the ability to reject excess heat to the geothermal field.
Is this the one you have?
http://www.dry-air.com/static/produc...0A_SS_H096.pdf
"The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers it can bribe the public with the public's own money.
- Alexis de Toqueville, 1835
To explain that last sentence so it means something: It's like doing math and you are adding up 2+2=4, but you keep getting 0. Then you realalize one of those 2's is a negative 2. Same thing when you're trying to diagnose a problem. Example: I've been adding a lot of refrigerant to this unit and I don't understand why my pressures are not going up. Problem:I assumed my gages were right. What didn't make sense: There's no way I added this much refrigerant and my pressures havn't gone up. Solution: Maybe my gages are broke.
I just saw the similarity in your statement about the ten ft. of wire, terminal block, contactor, nothing wrong with the wires, a new motor with correct voltage, no load, and high amps=wtf. If all you said was correct and there was not a missing variable, then the motor would draw normal amps. Either there is a missing variable affecting the equation or one of the factors used in the equation is incorrect. This is my brain on service.
Wrong motor ? Strange, if the manufacturer cant help you go vsp and see what happens?
You sure are cocky for a starving pilgrim.
Someone here mentioned the blower curve, forgive me for being to lazy too see whom, but that is where ya need to start.
I see a lot of this and that and no actual data, i.e. STATIC?? is this thing in cavitation? do we have an over-sized duct and no static? etc...
The designed blower curve chart for your application, at designed static, at designed RPM and blah blah blah is doing what real world?? way out of specs?
wrong this and that, possible? but doubt it, your missing something here...
sorry, but the motor is overamping without a load, forget about the blower curve until the initial motor problem is diagnosed
JP after further review, i agree, with what you said about it overloading, so he probably did not take a false readings
is it a dual voltage motor, maybe wired incorrectly
.
Can this unit pull in return air and/or outside air? Im wondering if the resistance of the return air duct is more than if its pulling outside air. Maybe when it goes to outside air there is less resitance and the fan loads up more.
If you get another motor, go to a 3hp. Make sure the wiring is adequate for the upgrade.
Agreed.
Since it is an overamping/overheating problem, the place to start is on the supply side. You have, what, 3 motors from 2 manufacturers? Nah. Not a motor problem anymore. At least that's my take.
Power each motor from a good power source. Take them off site to do it if needed, and take readings again.
I'm thinking that you have a power supply problem either within the unit or in the building as a whole.
So your saying an oversized/undersized/caveatting blower motor will not run hot/over amped? I find this hard to believe http://lmgtfy.com/
Why would one, not consider the designed curve as a tool for diagnosis to a problem with the blower motor/section?
The OP has apparently checked the incoming power supply, so now we just blindly change parts at random till it works? makes no sense to me, I would check the fundamentals and go from there ;-)