And before you start up any crap, its still way better than a Ford.
The pins in the hinges tend to swell and stick after awhile. They have known about this issue for years. My older truck had the same thing.
In time the door hinge gets bent out and the interior lights will stay on, as well as warning signal about door being open.
I took my trucky poo in the other day while it is still under warranty (6 months left) and it took them 2 days to swap out the pins and brackets with ones that have grease ftgs.
If you are having this problem tell them to fix it ASAP, if its out of warranty ***** about it being a known problem for years.
Even the Mgr at the body shop admitted to that.
Hey cockroach, don't bug me! ©
And before you start up any crap, its still way better than a Ford.
Hey cockroach, don't bug me! ©
There have been a few threads on that here before. Dealer wants $1400 to fix it out of warranty. Drilled holes in mine trying to put grease fittings in, but not enough depth to hold the fittings. So I just spray WD 40 in the holes all the time. One hinge weld is already cracked.
We've drilled holes and installed zerk fittings on some. Seems to be a temporary fix plus you start to get grease stains running down. Best fix is replacing the hinges.
Personally I'm a Ford guy but Chevy has my vote for service vans.
I'm on my third Chevy 3500 and this Spring or Fall will be buying my fourth, (and last). The side door hinges have always been a problem... 30+ years, why can't these yahoos figure out an answer?
It seems to be the top hinge that is the problem. I drill the hole, and hit it with a can of PB Blaster every couple of days that I keep right there for just this problem.
Other than the fuel pumps, it's still the best riding and value in town.
With the new 100K warranty, the minute the hinges start to stick, back to Pappa it goes!
Experience is what you have an hour after you need it.
The service manager told me it was like $1700 to fix the doors out of warranty.
And they did replace the pins with grease ftgs and had to change 2 bottom hinges and drill em in, to replace the welded ones.
I'm just glad I got it done for free.
I think some lawyer should start a class action suit, that issues has been going on for years now.
Hey cockroach, don't bug me! ©
I think the pins and/or the inside of the hinges rust and cause the problem. Kinda suspect the car wash might be making that worse too.
The clearance between the pin and the hinge must sure be extremely small.
Had no luck at all with the Kroil stuff. WD 40 was the only stuff that worked. But it doesn't always for some reason.
My door slides, never had a problem with it yet lol
"If you call that hard work, a koala’s life would look heroic."
Dice, what do you mean "drill them in"? Are to referring to the place where the hinge attaches to the door or to the truck body?
I'm wondering about that, because the weld on the truck body is cracked on one of the bottom ones on mine. So every time you open the door, you see that crack in the weld open up. Wondering if I could drill through that piece that's welded to the body and put some bolts and nuts there to reinforce it before the door falls off.
They drilled holes in the truck body and used some kind of heavy duty, black, counter sunk bolts to attach it.
Hey cockroach, don't bug me! ©
Take the doors off. Problem solved.
Counter sunk makes sense, because there's almost no clearance between the door and that piece when the door's shut. Guess I could just use a bigger bit to create the counter sink first.
Is there something in the head to keep turn it with when they install it?
Are there nuts & washers on the back of the bolt?
Just my $0.02 worth... I prefer vans with double swing doors on the side...
My first van had a sliding side door, it was always a problem. I suspect the door is not built for lots of use, specifically what service vans get.
GA-HVAC-Tech
Your comfort, Your way, Everyday!
GA's basic rules of home heating and AC upgrades:
*Installation is more important than the brand of equipment
*The duct system keeps the house comfortable; the equipment only heats and cools (and dehumidifies)
*The value of comfort, over the long term; leave economic choices behind!
Choose your contractor wisely!
If I am right, you might want to contact a specialty bolt company. The screw used is hardened and has a specific angle from the flat head to the body. I would get the proper drill for that angle, as the contact surface should mate properly. And if I remember, the flat head has a cross screwdriver opening. Not sure, I think a long time ago GM had threads in the body for those screws... I am sure they do not now.
IMO a little research and attention to subtle details might produce a repair that will not require attention in the future.
GA-HVAC-Tech
Your comfort, Your way, Everyday!
GA's basic rules of home heating and AC upgrades:
*Installation is more important than the brand of equipment
*The duct system keeps the house comfortable; the equipment only heats and cools (and dehumidifies)
*The value of comfort, over the long term; leave economic choices behind!
Choose your contractor wisely!
THX Dice... I went and re-read the thread... I guess I read 'side door' as 'slide door'... Since I am about to get a replacement Chevy 3500 van in a mos or so, I better look carefully at the door hinges. Might need to do the repair we have talked about here (counter-sunk flat-head screws with nuts on the back).
GA-HVAC-Tech
Your comfort, Your way, Everyday!
GA's basic rules of home heating and AC upgrades:
*Installation is more important than the brand of equipment
*The duct system keeps the house comfortable; the equipment only heats and cools (and dehumidifies)
*The value of comfort, over the long term; leave economic choices behind!
Choose your contractor wisely!