UV Lights to stop mold in new system--Effectiveness/Risks

[hamltnh]

I had new Carrier Infinity system installed about a month ago (HP, Coil, Gas Furnace, Powered Fan Humidifier, Infinity Control--all Carrirer branded including the Powered Fan Humidifier). I'm considering having the contractor add a UV light(s) to prevent mold growth in the coil/humidifier. My concern about mold is that when the old system was removed, the humidifier was pretty nasty with black mold spores/growth.

My question is how well these UV lights work and are the plastics used in the coil drain pan and humidifier resisitant to degradation from the UV light? Am I running an increased risk of problems with platics becoming brittle/cracking years down the road? Thanks in advance for any insights provided.

[tipsrfine]

A properly air sealed home should have no need for a humidifier. If your home gets too dry in winter, it's a good bet you have too much air leakage in your home that is letting the colder dryer air into your home.
Have you ever recorded the humidity levels in your home? The average home produces enough humidity that, in a properly air sealed home, needs to be removed via mechanical ventilation to keep humidity levels within acceptable levels.

[beachtech]

In my personal experience, uv lights are effective. And the light will burn through anything that isn't UV resistant, so you would want to check with the manufacturers of the materials that the light will be effecting.

As tips said, you may want to get to the root if the problem, versus trying to cover it up by throw more products at it.

[hamltnh]

The average home produces enough humidity that, in a properly air sealed home, needs to be removed via mechanical ventilation to keep humidity levels within acceptable levels.

I've never lived in such a home or visited one either. In my present homes (one in NoVA and one in Midwest), extended periods where the Gas Furnace/Boiler runs will decrease the humidity into the 25%-30% level--a bit low for our tastes. We're much more comfortable in the 30%-35% range at a minimum.

[beachtech]

It's relative... the equipment isn't removing the humidity, the building is losing it to a less humid outdoor environment.

Hot air moves to colder air, and with a drafty building, you've proved that by saying when the equipment runs for an extended amount if time, the humidity goes down.

[tipsrfine]

I've never lived in such a home or visited one either. In my present homes (one in NoVA and one in Midwest), extended periods where the Gas Furnace/Boiler runs will decrease the humidity into the 25%-30% level--a bit low for our tastes. We're much more comfortable in the 30%-35% range at a minimum.

I just did an energy audit of such a home last month. The reason you've probably never seen such a home is the relative newness of building science and energy auditing of homes. Believe me, you CAN get your home air sealed down to those levels. Money spent on that is so much better than money spent on the bandaids, i.e. humidifiers, larger than necessary hvac systems etc....
The first step is having an energy audit performed by someone who is BPI or RESNET certified. Just Google map your homes address and then click "search nearby" and type in "energy audit". I would recommend going through all the websites that come up and find some company that just does energy audits, rather than a company that does the work also. I am an independent energy auditor and my personal belief is that an energy auditor cannot be objective if he works for a company that is pressuring him to sell their products & services. If you don't go with an independent, I would go with a company that offers everything, and then offers a guarantee on their work.

[hamltnh]

I would recommend going through all the websites that come up and find some company that just does energy audits, rather than a company that does the work also. I am an independent energy auditor and my personal belief is that an energy auditor cannot be objective if he works for a company that is pressuring him to sell their products & services. If you don't go with an independent, I would go with a company that offers everything, and then offers a guarantee on their work.

Do you have any recommendations for such a company in the NoVA/DC/MD area?

[hamltnh]

It's relative... the equipment isn't removing the humidity, the building is losing it to a less humid outdoor environment.

Hot air moves to colder air, and with a drafty building, you've proved that by saying when the equipment runs for an extended amount if time, the humidity goes down.

The HP runs for extended periods, but doesn't decrease the humidity much, if at all--perhaps it's the combustion air for the furnace/boiler?

[tipsrfine]

Do you have any recommendations for such a company in the NoVA/DC/MD area?

I think the best way is to do that google map search of your address/zip code, and then hit the "search nearby" button and type in "energy audit". It should bring up every company near you that are offering energy audits. Be carefull, not everyone offering an energy audit is offering the real thing. The real energy audit will be someone who is BPI or RESNET certified. They will come to your home and perform at least a blower door test & worst case CAZ test, and will evaluate your homes insulation levels, along with everything in your home that consumes energy -electric/gas/propane/wood/oil etc.... Hopefully they will also use thermal imaging in conjunction with the blower door test.
If you plan on getting a new HVAC system sometime soon, an energy audit is the first step you need to take. Get that home air sealed & insulated properly, take steps to reduce the solar heat gain to your home in summer via the windows (mostly) and then have a good HVAC contractor come out and perform a manual j calc to properly size your new system, and evaluate your duct system. The money you spend on the audit & weatherizing your home will more than likely allow you to install a smaller hvac system that will use less energy and keep you more comfortable in your home.

[beachtech]

The HP runs for extended periods, but doesn't decrease the humidity much, if at all--perhaps it's the combustion air for the furnace/boiler?

The combustion air should be coming from outside. The boiler room should be vented to the outside, via actual vents and or ducting.

Using a bypass humidifier on a heat pump is defeating the purpose of heating the home. Heat pumps don't have enough temperature rise to support it.

[second opinion]

Do you have any recommendations for such a company in the NoVA/DC/MD area?

729-6806

[hamltnh]

Using a bypass humidifier on a heat pump is defeating the purpose of heating the home. Heat pumps don't have enough temperature rise to support it.

It's not a bypass humidifier--it's a powered fan humidifier.

[jeremyhall.tech.sc]

I had new Carrier Infinity system installed about a month ago (HP, Coil, Gas Furnace, Powered Fan Humidifier, Infinity Control--all Carrirer branded including the Powered Fan Humidifier). I'm considering having the contractor add a UV light(s) to prevent mold growth in the coil/humidifier. My concern about mold is that when the old system was removed, the humidifier was pretty nasty with black mold spores/growth.

My question is how well these UV lights work and are the plastics used in the coil drain pan and humidifier resisitant to degradation from the UV light? Am I running an increased risk of problems with platics becoming brittle/cracking years down the road? Thanks in advance for any insights provided.

its fine ... just kills flex... paint anything in question with a spray can of uv blocker... or smear it with spf 400..................lol .

[beachtech]

its fine ... just kills flex... paint anything in question with a spray can of uv blocker... or smear it with spf 400..................lol .

not really... i've seen a many of failed carrier drain pans due to UV.

typically anything light, or wihite in color is not UV resistant.

[beachtech]

It's not a bypass humidifier--it's a powered fan humidifier.

not really any better, at all .

[jeremyhall.tech.sc]

not really... i've seen a many of failed carrier drain pans due to UV.

typically anything light, or wihite in color is not UV resistant.

so heres my question... its plastic how long should it last?

[beachtech]

so heres my question... its plastic how long should it last?

drain pan? without the UV light that chewed it up, it'll last longer than the system will.

with the UV light, it lasted 2 years.

[jeremyhall.tech.sc]

drain pan? without the UV light that chewed it up, it'll last longer than the system will.

with the UV light, it lasted 2 years.

my unit has been running with a uv light for 3 years , ill look and see if i find any damages.... one day.

[hamltnh]

drain pan? without the UV light that chewed it up, it'll last longer than the system will.

with the UV light, it lasted 2 years.

What manufactuer/year of production was this equipment? I ask, because my contractor says Carrier eqiupment is designed/certified for use with UV lights...