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Thread: combustion analyser

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravity View Post

    i can't believe they really skimped me on a probe stop.
    Same here!!!!

  2. #102
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    Does anyone know if the testo probe stop is the same diameter as the intech probe?

    The new sample probe on the intech looks smaller.

    I'm also to lazy to go out and measure it.

    The testo probe stop is only $22. i think i can afford that

  3. #103
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    I recommend drilling smaller holes. I never use a probe stop. I use to take them out of kits and put them in my desk because they get hot and are hard to cool down. Check with me and I may make a deal. Where did you get your Intech?

    Cotton balls and yarn make great filters and cost much less than filters. At least it is after the water trap and not before it, so it stays dry.

    Rubber hoses make much better connections than metal ones.
    captain CO

  4. #104
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    Thanks for the input Jim.

    I got it from TTT

    I finally got to use it today

    2 RTU. one was burning good, in the 6%o2 range with 40ppm CO. but low flue temp. about 270* had 115,000input with 6tons of airflow.

    other rtu was over 2000ppm CO with pretty blue flames. low o2. burner plates infested with stinkbugs. probably millions of stinkbugs in the heat exchanger.

    I wish there was something out there that eats these damn bugs.

  5. #105
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    do u wrap the cottonball with the yarn im assuming?

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Davis View Post
    I recommend drilling smaller holes. I never use a probe stop. I use to take them out of kits and put them in my desk because they get hot and are hard to cool down. Check with me and I may make a deal. Where did you get your Intech?

    Cotton balls and yarn make great filters and cost much less than filters. At least it is after the water trap and not before it, so it stays dry.

    Rubber hoses make much better connections than metal ones.
    Smaller holes is a good idea, bit what if the last guy drilled a 3/8 hole?

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckcrj View Post
    Smaller holes is a good idea, bit what if the last guy drilled a 3/8 hole?
    poor chucky got big holes I feel bad for you cause little holes are much better! must be a very sad day for poor little chuky

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckcrj View Post
    Smaller holes is a good idea, bit what if the last guy drilled a 3/8 hole?
    Put a plug in it and drill another hole to your liking

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravity View Post
    Put a plug in it and drill another hole to your liking
    thats an awesome idea! You're good.'' ``Well, I ... ``No! You're good!you you You're good.

  10. #110
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    HAHA.....It's a multi-tap flue pipe. Choose the hole that fits your probe......

  11. #111
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    I read somewhere that the 320 is made in germany and the 310 is made in china. Can anyone confirm this? I am considering replacing my 5.5 year old TSI 6130.

    Has anyone seen this problem on the TSI: The readings sometimes don't change when I insert the probe in the flue, even though the sensors are recent, the pump is pumping, and the "plumbing" inside the meter seems to be okay. No error code. And yes I always disconnect the hose when not in use.
    Arizona dreaming....

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjou812 View Post
    I read somewhere that the 320 is made in germany and the 310 is made in china. Can anyone confirm this? I am considering replacing my 5.5 year old TSI 6130.

    Has anyone seen this problem on the TSI: The readings sometimes don't change when I insert the probe in the flue, even though the sensors are recent, the pump is pumping, and the "plumbing" inside the meter seems to be okay. No error code. And yes I always disconnect the hose when not in use.
    I will gladly buy the TSI from you. Sometimes the pump diaghrams sticks and you have to take it apart and clean them.

  13. #113
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    If you're worried about repeated holes in PVC or want a better access port, try this:

    cut in a tee on the vertical leg just off the appliance and glue it in. Install a bushing with internal thread or use a reducing tee with internal thread. Just try to get the snout down to about 3/4" internal thread. Install removable pvc plug.

    Two options for testing- you can carry a threaded plug of your own with a hole for your analyzer pre-drilled through the middle or, use a Fernco cap with the hole punched in it. Apply temporary plug or cap, test, then reinstall threaded plug. AHJ shouldn't have a problem with that. I like the Fernco option as its quick and holds my probe better.

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjou812 View Post
    I read somewhere that the 320 is made in germany and the 310 is made in china. Can anyone confirm this? I am considering replacing my 5.5 year old TSI 6130.

    Has anyone seen this problem on the TSI: The readings sometimes don't change when I insert the probe in the flue, even though the sensors are recent, the pump is pumping, and the "plumbing" inside the meter seems to be okay. No error code. And yes I always disconnect the hose when not in use.
    Can't say about the 310 but I believe the 320 is made in Germany. I didn't look for a "made in" on it but half of my paperwork on it including the calibration sheet are in German.

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjou812 View Post
    I read somewhere that the 320 is made in germany and the 310 is made in china. Can anyone confirm this? I am considering replacing my 5.5 year old TSI 6130.

    Has anyone seen this problem on the TSI: The readings sometimes don't change when I insert the probe in the flue, even though the sensors are recent, the pump is pumping, and the "plumbing" inside the meter seems to be okay. No error code. And yes I always disconnect the hose when not in use.
    You will be upset if you switch analyzers. As Chuck said the pump just needs cleaning by taking it apart. There are little valves in there that get stuck. If it needs repair and calibration you need to send it to me at home. I calibrate and fix the pump for minimum cost.
    captain CO

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Davis View Post
    You will be upset if you switch analyzers. As Chuck said the pump just needs cleaning by taking it apart. There are little valves in there that get stuck. If it needs repair and calibration you need to send it to me at home. I calibrate and fix the pump for minimum cost.
    Jim, are you offering the nci class in the cleveland area anytime soon.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hvac216 View Post
    Jim, are you offering the nci class in the cleveland area anytime soon.
    Well it depends on what you mean by soon. There is one scheduled in March. I am available for questions and advice anytime.
    captain CO

  18. #118
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    I took out the pump but couldn't figure out how to get it apart without breaking it. Is there a way of squeezing it to separate the halves?
    Arizona dreaming....

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjou812 View Post
    I took out the pump but couldn't figure out how to get it apart without breaking it. Is there a way of squeezing it to separate the halves?
    There are four legs that snap into the end of the pump. You have to stick a heavy paperclip in the hole in the end and loosed one side carefully and then the other while trying not to break the tabs. It is simple once you do it. Worst case send it to me and I can fix it.
    captain CO

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Davis View Post
    Well it depends on what you mean by soon. There is one scheduled in March. I am available for questions and advice anytime.
    When and where is this course scheduled in march ? And do you have some info on registering to attend ? Thanks

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