How long to get moisture out??? chiller heat exchanger ruptured ..
Long story short had a plate and frame heat exchanger rupture . Removed and replaced old one install new drier triple evacuated also ran vacuum pump over nite. I am sick so. Had other tech go out to charge system since we had pump running over night. He wieghed in charge start up unit and drier completely froze up unit ran into vacuum sightglass still showing moisture. ....
My question is any one have any tips or advice on getting moisture out besides vacuum and nitrogen?
Also is the new gas ruined if we recover it with a new drier filtering it to recovery tank?
Do either of you own a micron gauge?
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Could take days/weeks depending on the size of the system.
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Have a refrigerent decontamination company come to job and flush refrigerent circuit.It will save time and money.. I have been there.
Yes have micron gauge but had it at home .. 7.5 ton small Dx chiller. Will keep nitrogen vacuum till I get down to 500 microns
You said you ran the pumps all nite but did you ever change the pump oil?
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yes ran first pump for couple hours then coupling broke went picked up new pump with new oil and ran over night had other tech return to add gas guess didnt realise how much moisture / water got in the system what a mess. I just thought one night would have been enough time with triple evac and new drier.
Originally Posted by pillclinton209
Had one years ago, hope to never have another. Had to cut the "U" bends on the bottom of the Air Cooled Condensor. Un-Sweat them, blow the water out, (We used an Air Compressor to get the Majority out, was in the 20% range for humidity.) Sweat in New "U" bends. We used a belt driven Kinney V Pump, that was a double pump, Tarps, and Kerosene Blast Heaters.
How long will depend on how much moisture was introduced, if your vac pump oil continues to change color, chances are you still have a lot of moisture in the system. I agree,.cut the lines and blow the system out with dry nitrogen. If you have more than one pump, you could also isolate the system and use one pump per side. A micron gauge will also tell you if you have any standing moisture in the system.
First of all we are talking water contamination here not moisture so all of the refrigerant and oil needs to be removed and disposed off, remember water can get trapped under the oil which will prove difficult to remove so as mentioned previously blow through as many outlets as possible with nitrogen.
You will then need heat onto the system to aid your vacuum.
Under no circumstances put oil or refrigerant into the system until you have verified a good steady vacuum of 500 microns.
After each vacuum cycle you should then add nitrogen to system and leave for about 15 minutes to settle at about 15 psig before blowing off and then repeat the vacuum cycle change oil at start of every cycle.
As for how long will it take, how long is a piece of string it takes as long as it takes probably at least a week or more.
Then you need to try and find out why it ruptured, is the water chemically treated if not why not and if its not then you had better get it done.
Test the freeze and flow protection on the chiller work ok. Test whatever is used for low pressure protection pressure or saturated temperture as this can also cause freeze ups if set too low or faulty.
Because if you don't know why it happened you could be back any time soon repeating this exercise ALL OVER AGAIN.
Finally before you left site you needed to leave some sort of label or information of the condition of the chiller as you left it in the event of somebody else being sent to site to carry on as its now plainly obvious your co worker also must have left his micron gauge at home as he couldn't have checked what vacuum was pulled or the condition of vacuum pump oil.
Alternatively you could just get a company who know what they are doing to fix it for you.
That is a shame,if the chiller was not running when the exchanger let go,or the water side was not under pressure,it is all that bad of a job!