I cannot really make-out how the unit is zoned but it appears there's a zone damper on the return, just above the furnace? You did state it's installed as a down flow installation? A 33 code is a limit open. I'm guessing you have insufficient airflow on high fire. Prior to now, perhaps it's been warm enough that the unit operated on low fire only and so was not a problem. Now, if it's colder outdoors, it could be stepping up to high fire and tripping the limit. Again, this is pure guessing on my part, absent being on scene. Unfortunately you don't have a User Interface that is normally used with an Infinity product so there's no history of errors to help with the diagnosis.
The noise could be a multitude of different things and may or may not be related to the error code. Being from Massachusetts where we get our share of snow, we always install our units as sealed combustion installations. That is, a second pipe is installed to the outdoors for combustion air, thus eliminating the need for indoor air. This increases the overall efficiency by not using treated air for combustion and also is a safer installation in that the combustion products, absent a failed heat exchanger, are separated from the indoor environment. But that does cost a little more on the install.
Perhaps now that the long holiday weekend has expired, you've had more success locating the installing company? It seems unfortunate that you used a one man band for the installation. Those of us with companies of multiple trucks and personnel are always available. Keep us posted.
Furnace: Carrier ICS 96 model # 58MVC
Water Heater: US Craftmaster model # FG1J4040T3NOV
thank you for confirming this. I was wondering because in my brother's house he has a Carrier upflow furnace and both pipes were connected so I thought mine needed both as well.
Yes, it is a downflow furnace and I believe that is a zone damper on the return as it is Honeywell branded. I attached a close up pic of it if that helps. Also, what you said about colder weather and low heat makes a lot of sense if true. The furnace was installed early November and here in California it wasn't that cold yet but this month has been much colder.
I have now left him a couple of voicemails, hopefully he will respond as the Christmas weekend has just past. We will see.
Yea when first deciding on a installation company (I had estimates from 5-6 different people) it just seemed to vary so much price/how many BTU/how they were going to install.
The big multiple truck companies charged me double the price and were being very shady in terms of being there when the inspector came for approval. They said "When the inspector comes, have him write down the corrections and call us and we will come and fix it" Also, they wanted the total payment up front which also made me feel uncomfortable. What if they came, installed and I didn't hear from them again? It may be standard procedure for them but from my experience when someone provided me a major service at my house I would like the job to be completed, inspection passed, permit in hand and I will gladly hand over cash/check (but I would pay some initially as I know parts need to be bought etc). Anyways, its all a moot point now.
a couple more # on furnace
Sorry about that...
Looks more like a discharge air temp sensor. And if it is, its installed in the return, instead of the supply.
Yes, it is a downflow furnace and I believe that is a zone damper on the return as it is Honeywell branded.
I'm with ya, been. Why would there be a damper on the main return? Gotta be a DATS that some moron put in the wrong place. One of my colleagues found one on the return couple years ago.
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This is your third warning in this thread alone.
I think only the newest IAQ and Red link systems use a return air temp sensor.
Originally Posted by BaldLoonie
And that looks like a True zone panel, which i don't recall having a return temp sensor set up.
Maybe the installer forgot he was installing a downflow. LOL
So a little update. I was able to get the contractor to come and look at it. He spent about an hour with the furnace.
He reset using the power switch and this usually lets the furnance run perfectly fine at low/medium heat levels and the time he was here it did not go into high heat. I was surprised as the light was not blinking but now a constant amber light.
He checked the solenoid and adjusted the medium/high gas valve screw.
Since my furnace is located in a closet with the water heater adjacent and the since the closet doors were open the whole time he said he believed that the machine was not getting enough air into that closet space and was causing the machine to overheat and shutdown.
He said to leave the door open and to see if that fixes things. But it did not, the machine since has gone back to flashing error code 33 and the noise has came back. I actually saw it flash a code 13. Which sounds like a different problem from the troubleshooting guide.
In the meantime he said to call him back if the problem persists and I will do just that today. He was going to get in touch with Carrier for more information.....if that means anything......
Any input from the expert staff on these boards
Can you measure the round pipe on the top of the air cleaner? Even if you did not have the zoning system that he tried to create you are still lacking normal airflow for the furnace.
The damper in the return can be seen by removing the cells. Lack of combustion air is more of a concern. Ask your installer to bring in a consultant to resolve all of your problems so that you can enjoy what you paid for.
when you say round pipe on top of air cleaner are you referring to the return air ductwork? Also, what are the cells exactly?
Sorry, again my hvac knowledge is very minimal.
The square box that the round pipe is attached to has a pre-filter and two electronic cells that need to be washed each month. Also the duct that is running above the cabinets along with the pvc flue pipe, where does it go? You show in one picture a return air filter grill above a picture, is there a filter in it?
I measured the pipe coming out of the square box, it is about 10ft in diameter. (Edited, please see next post)
You say that there are 2 pre-filters inside that box, how is one supposed to remove those to clean them? They appeared to be closed off.(Ignore, please see next post)
Yep, the duct that runs above the cabinets leads to return air grill in the family room (The one above the picture). I opened it and took a picture, it does not appear to have any kind of filter in there.