How do YOU set up YOUR heat pump?

[btexpress]

Gentlemen!
I posted over here, because I thought some other HO's might benefit from your answers as well.
I'm writing this as a HO and not a Contractor. I don't do any residential work, except for my own residence.

I recently had to replace my HP. What a chore that was with me, myself and I! The dang things are huge compared to what I had! And, the line set was the hardest part to install! Any way I digress...

The unit I installed (Gibson 12 SEER w/ scroll comp.) does not have a CC heater (visible). It doesn't have an OD air 'stat. It doesn't have LP or HP sw's.

I'm thinking about adding some or all to my unit. Would you do it if this was your unit? Am I over controlling?

You know, that sucker was cycling on/off with the OD temp in the high teens/low twenties!
I was impressed. It seemed the old unit (Janitrol) would just keep running at those temps.

Anyway, sorry for the long post!
What would/does your unit have on it?

Thanks, Bob

[smokin68]

Personally....I'd put a belly-band on it and Hi/Lo pressure switches on the ports. Cheap insurance.

[jared]

My unit, now 5 years old, is a Bryant 2.5 ton 650 model heat pump with FV4 variable speed air handler and Thermidistat control. I have the heat strips locked out above 15*F. DEhumidify setpoint is 50%...usually heat to 68-70 and cool 68-70...balance point WAS 17*, but has inched up to about 22* because my lazy butt has not re-weatherstripped the doors and resealed the caulking on the windows...I really should do it...I think my total cost would be about $12.

[btexpress]

Hey guy's thanks for your inputs.
I'll be installing the controls and CC heater.
Thanks again,
Bob

[k-fridge]

The unit probably has off cycle crancase heat by bleeding through the windings and keeping them warm. No need to add a belly band that will just use energy.

I do not think outdoor thremostats are needed except in special conditions. Modern pumps usually do better without them.

Being a refrigeration guy I wish all units had HP and LP controls for protection, unfortunatly the market is so down and dirty on pricing these get left out to keep the costs down.

Gibson, for the price, is a very impressive line of equipment. Solidly built, very quiet, and reliable. One of the better budget priced lines on the market IMO.

[Furnace_dude]

i do like the gibson line. its simple, looks good, and it has a copeland

[docholiday]

You dont need a CCH unless you have noisy compressor at start up. It wont hurt though.

No need for an outdoor stat.

The LPS would have to be bypassed more than likely in the heating mode unless you had the right one. If nothing else a bypass timer would need to be installed.

Unless you are cool with the idea of replacing the compressor if the fan fails on the outdoor unit in summer, or indoor fan in winter, a HP switch would be, as someone mentioned, cheap insurance.

[behappy]

All I do is Heat Pumps down here... and I'll bet ya a coke that the C.U. has a single pole contactor. This means you have the winding(s) on and no need for a C.H.

Also as said before press. switch = cheap insurance. Plus I do like the outside stat to compensate for the thermostart fiddle fart syndrom!

[Swampfox]

A single pole contactor does not provide crankcase heat, where is the circuit? to ground? the old GE and Trane units had a trickle circuit on the start winding, using a bleed resistor on the run cap

Instead of a LP switch put a loss of charge switch on the liquid line

[re2ell]

Originally posted by swampfox
A single pole contactor does not provide crankcase heat, where is the circuit? to ground? the old GE and Trane units had a trickle circuit on the start winding, using a bleed resistor on the run cap

Instead of a LP switch put a loss of charge switch on the liquid line

this issue use to baffle me also, "where is the circuit?" It's not the typical circuit arrangement we are so familiar with.......it works by applying a potential difference at the run capacitor which in itself provides the missing link. The capacitor does this by its' ability to charge and discharge every cycle of the line feeding it. This constant charging and discharging will produce, in effect, a very small current in the run winding, sufficient enough to produce just enough heat to prevent refrigerant migration to the compressor. Yes, a single pole contactor is a sure sign that the compressor run winding is the crankcase heater. To check for operation, clamp on your ammeter aroung the leg that is not disconneted at the contactor during shutdown, you will get a reading.

[docholiday]

Potential is worthless without a return path. If you read L1-T1 (assuming that is the open leg). You will read 220v. unless there is something coming from both L1 and anywhere between T1 and T3 you do not automaticly get CCH. In the case of using the bleed resister, the cpacitor would need to be fed from the L1. To verify it, as you mentioned you would need to read current on the start or common wire to the compressor. (will be very low). You also probably do not have a start cap on that gibson unit unless it had a recip.

Since SEER has become more difficult to attain, usage of power for things like CCH are generally removed unless an absolute necessity. They are added as accessories but again, a Copeland Scroll doesnt need one unless you are trying to reduce the noise at start-up.

[griz]

BOLOGNA ON NOT NEEDING CCH. ABSOLUTLEY CHEEP INSURANCE. YOU ARE NOT ALWAYS THERE TO LISTEN TO THE PUMP ON COLD STARTUPS. BEST $30 SPENT

[jdb52]

Thanks to btexpress for posting this kind of question in the residential section, but your talking your language with abbreviations. Can you explain the meaning of the shorthand? For instance, what do you mean by CC heater, OD air stat, HP and LP sw's and what is the value of installing each on this heat pump? I think I know some of the answers but wouldn't presume anything. Would rather hear from the pros.

thanks
jdb