where do i find this info? what is the purpose of this metal "baffle" ?
when you pull the blower assembly it is the small curved piece you have to remove in order to get the wheel out of the throat of the housing.
usually held in by 2 screws & a couple of tabs
ill find a picture of it tomarrow.
im going to check the indoor blower wheel and make sure its tight and not slipping on the shaft , also im not sure i want to start changing orifices even though ill check it.
i did kind of deal every one here a dead hand though i didnt get my SP readings ...
The blower motor's rated 2.5+ and pulling 1.0. It's not moving air. You already disconnected the ductwork, and it still didn't move air. Supply and return static pressures will be low, only confirming it's not moving air.
I don't know what's causing the problem, but it's got to be a restriction, slow motor, reverse rotation motor or restricted blower wheel...If the blower wheel was slipping, you'd hear an abnormal noise. It is a PSC motor, right? Every now and then you run across a Goodman with an ECM type , which could be running slow.
We're all assuming it was running "normal" yesterday, or the day before or last week. Be sure and confirm that. It it was, something broke.
Saturated makes a good point, and I don't know if anyone else has mentioned it yet or not, but is this thing on Gas company gas or well gas? we see some here on well gas and they are running hot and need the Gas pressure adjusted accordingly.
Problem #1 - With 12" supply, and 14" return duct, the blower is not moving much air @ 1 amp. What speed is the motor on, low? Try switching to high speed for heat and see what that does to amp draw and your temperature issue.
Problem #2 - Still keep going back to that roll-out condition you observed. Something is not right with the inducer air circuit from what you described. All the gaskets for the collector box sealed airtight? Any leaks through the HX reduce the volume/velocity of the air entering the HX tubes, creating rollout. Which is why I was curious if you 'leak' tested the HX with water before you installed it. BTW... I got that idea from recent posts here at H-Talk. I did it the other day to an old HX, and water poured out of it. Considering the quality of things nowadays, I'm going to do more leak searches from now on - even with new HX's.
I remember some GM package units had a stainless steel screen in each tube to decrease laminar flow for better heat exchange. Were they there, and are they needed?
You mentioned it had a slight rollout. You should check the orifice sizing and make sure the correct gas valve is installed. i have seen people install a snap action, when a slow open was OEM. Also, make sure the insulation hasnt fell down inside the unit and block air flow. We are talking about a Goodman here!
thanks to everyone for their help this one was a pretty bad foul-up on my part.
i checked the temperature with a probe and seen the temperature rising when in reality it was getting high temp readings from radiant heat . . . stupid stupid stupid me . . . the HX cracked from short cycling since the hls was faulty...
i still have the issue with a small amount of roll-out im not happy with, nothing i cant fix with a tune-up kit im sure.
catch a man a fish , feed him for a day.
teach a man to fish , ruin a good business opportunity.
i checked the temp at the return and supply plenums and it was 69 degrees incoming 138 degrees supply , well with in the 40-70 range...
i changed out the hi limit L-160 for a L-190 and all seems well .
almost well i should say its still got some small roll-out on the start-up . im going back with a combustion analyzer and my tune up kit to get it under control.
Glad I helped there, since the airflow theory sucked... I'd have bet money on that one. Still, 69 delta T says the air volume is minimum. Oh well, that's the downside of troubleshooting over cyberspace...