ReplyShow me your unit!
Is that 5" flue pipe? Oh ya, where is your ptrap
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Errr..wrong wording maybe. Show off your own system. I finally got around to replacing mine. I went with the B-vent and dilution bit till I can line my chimney. Three fireplaces so I have no clue how much the thing snakes yet.
Be kind now and don't nit pick me.yes the p=trap
[IMG]
The heating man finally replaces his. by SouthWestDreams , on Flickr[/IMG]
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Show me your unit!
Is that 5" flue pipe? Oh ya, where is your ptrap
I'm not tolerating Political Correctness anymore, from now on it's tell it like it is.
Veto Pro Pak - The best tool bag you'll ever own
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You couldnt have been a little neater or used a level or tape measure?Whay you have to make it look all professional and symetrical and neat looking?Why you do such great looking expert work?KIddding kidding, That really looks good, looks just like I told you to do itOriginally Posted by Glennhvac
Errr..wrong wording maybe. Show off your own system. I finally got around to replacing mine. I went with the B-vent and dilution bit till I can line my chimney. Three fireplaces so I have no clue how much the thing snakes yet.
Be kind now and don't nit pick me.
[IMG]
The heating man finally replaces his. by SouthWestDreams , on Flickr[/IMG]
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p trap why? drain for the humidifer I would have ran it so if the drain gets plug it would not back up in to the coil.... I would have not put the humidastat so close to the humidifier. or put in a IAQ. why did you put in a 80% not a 90%? you said Be kind now and don't nit pick me. not nit picking just showing how you can look at a good install and find something that you could do diffrent. as i dont do install I have to be the one to fix it when it goes wrong. as that is all said it looks good and I would have you put mine in. o did i say it is a very good install. how long did it take you?
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Good points and questions. P traps are actually required on coils. Actually there are two points water can escape should the humid drain plug up but hard to see or out of the photo. One is where the humid drain enters the larger pvc and another is a tee at floor just beside r/a.
I had installed the humidifier,e/a/c and uv years ago and left that as is. A 90 would have posed venting problems for me regarding a deck and many windows. I worked on it off and on but I guess it took maybe 9 hours total. Will do line and condenser in spring. And thanks!
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No it is 6 inch as required. Now I may be wrong but I can not see that b-vent has more friction then regular pipe so I am not sure why they want it increased in size. Their goal with b-vent is to keep the flue gases as hot as possible on the way to the chimney and it would seem to me that with more surface area of b-vent the reverse would be true!Show me your unit!
Is that 5" flue pipe? Oh ya, where is your ptrap
I may pose that question in the forum.
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The vent kit is used as a way to keep the chimney drafting all the time so it stays warm enough to prevent the flue gases from condensing on an exterior chimney. Since you didn't put the 95% furnace in how bout a heat pump instead of a condenser and turn this into a dual fuel system. It will compensate for the 80% furnace. The honeywell IAQ kit makes it a snap and you don't need a million wires. It can be combined with a plenum sensor for defrost. That way the furnace will only run during the coldest part of the winter.
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Real nice tones in that picture! Haha did you guys read any of the comments on the flickr page?
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The humidistat is supposed to be a minimum of 12" above the humidifier.
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Andrew, I know what the vent kit does, Iwas curious why 6" over 4". In thinking about it it may be that they want 6" bvent over the normal 4" single wall is to provide more dilution air then 4" would provide.
Heat pump? I still can't see them for Chicago applications personally. The only ones around here (which I do not service) are hooked to electric furnaces. The other issue I have is that this is one of those homes where they put the supplies up high on the inside walls and the returns along the outside. They did this for a few years in the early 50's it seems. The end result is I need some throw to get that heat across the darn room and sadly that kind of killed the idea of 2 stage for me with that low blower speed on low fire.
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I was hoping to see an Iron Fireman feeding coal into a pretty boiler, and all I get is a gas furnace like I see every day!
Jason
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Furnace tags are over here Jason. Truthfully, I have not come across a new one in years! And there is a cast iron fireman feeding coal in there
http://www.flickr.com/photos/southwe...7604472975528/
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I would agree with you on that, I would have thought 4" would have been good.
I'm not tolerating Political Correctness anymore, from now on it's tell it like it is.
Veto Pro Pak - The best tool bag you'll ever own
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Not familiar with your area but a 6" double wall seems to do more harm than good. The velocity of the combustion air is going to slow down and all the moisture will condense on the inner wall before it buoy's up and out. A smaller surface area i think would retain more heat and improve the physics factors of heat and velocity. I think that down the road you will find double wall pipes in chimenies that are rusted out.
Nice work.
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I don't know why one would exclude heat pumps just because you live in Chicago. I don't know what you pay for electric vs gas though so maybe that's it. I have installed heat pump dual fuel units in the northern tier of PA (within miles of Elmira NY if you want to get an idea of the area) and they definitely save money vs a gas furnace and straight AC. Also, since you'd be doing it yourself the only added cost would be the price difference between the heat pump and AC.Andrew, I know what the vent kit does, Iwas curious why 6" over 4". In thinking about it it may be that they want 6" bvent over the normal 4" single wall is to provide more dilution air then 4" would provide.
Heat pump? I still can't see them for Chicago applications personally. The only ones around here (which I do not service) are hooked to electric furnaces. The other issue I have is that this is one of those homes where they put the supplies up high on the inside walls and the returns along the outside. They did this for a few years in the early 50's it seems. The end result is I need some throw to get that heat across the darn room and sadly that kind of killed the idea of 2 stage for me with that low blower speed on low fire.
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I believe we have some of the cheapest natural gas in the nation, accompanied by one of the highest electric rates. I have seen two heat pumps in my life (excluding mini-splits), both were in condos that did not have gas service. I have never seen a heat pump in a house.
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That would certainly explain it. Might I inquire what electric rates and nat gas rates you have up there?
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Theres no heat pumps around here, either. Our Electric rates have surpassed our NG rates.
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In my experience they weren't real popular to begin with in PA in part because the electric heat demand would be so high on a properly sized unit. While dual-fuel has been around a long time, I don't think the market penetration in PA was ever very high. What are your electric rates vs your nat gas rates? In PA nat gas should stay fairly steady for a long time given the amount of nat gas wells being drilled in the part of PA I grew up in. Granted it's ultimately a world market for the gas but it helps having it local.
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Looks great. Purchased by the H,O, and installed by the low bid though!.
Never argue with a crazy man.
