False inducer motor speed readings from "filth"?
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  1. #1

    False inducer motor speed readings from "filth"?

    Furnance has been sporatically messing up. Will work fine for a month, then screw a few times in one day, then be fine again for awhile. Light on the board flashes a code 42 for improper inducer fan speed whenever its messing up. Turn power off and on to the unit and it usually starts working... may take 1 time, may take 10. When its not working, it shuts down after the inducer fan is running for awhile; but before the ignitor starts glowing. Once its starts working, it may be great for a couple of weeks; or it may start acting up after 45 seconds.

    Been searching to see what the problem could be (which is how I found this forum). One guy mentioned his problem resolving after opening up the inducer and cleaning all of the crud out; which he thought allowed it to better balance. Is this a realistic assumption? I do have some pretty nasty looking black stuff that came out of the collector box for the drain tubes when I flushed it. I'd imagine the inside of the inducer must have a lot of build up, too. $+ for a new inducer is going to make for some not so happy holidays
    Last edited by beenthere; 12-05-2011 at 05:15 AM. Reason: price

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    Columbia, MD
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    3,783
    you need to have a professional inspect your furnace and do a proper combustion analysis. how old is your furnace and what is the model? are you heating with natural gas or propane?

  3. #3
    I'll agree a professional needs to check this thing out... for a multitude of reasons. I don't know who did the initial install; but even as a HVAC novice, I can tell its jacked. They have a jumper wire connecting the two posts where the 3A fuse is supposed to be! Are there Bryant-specific professionals I should be looking for, or does it not work that way in the HVAC business?

    Model# is 355MAV060100F

    I've only owned the home for 2 years, lived in it for 4 months (repo that I just finished remodelling 4 months ago). I have no idea when the initial install was done; but the serial # indicates the unit was mfgd November 2002. I heat with propane. I don't know if the conversion was ever done to it. Is there an easy way to tell just by looking, like a special part to look for?

    I'm still interested in if the above scenario is a possibility. I work on cars and the standard anymore is to just throw on a new part instead of servicing what's there. Starters are a good example. Most starters that are "bad" just need <$20 worth of parts to be rebuilt and in good working order; but techs now just go to the parts store and put a $200 new one on because its quicker and they're not the ones paying the bill.

  4. #4
    I called the closest Bryant authorized service place and have a guy coming out Friday afternoon. Waiting that long is due to my schedule at work, they were willing to make a service call today or tomorrow; but I'm just not able to take time off until Friday. I've read there's an "Emergency Heat" setting on some furnaces. Is this an option on mine should the need arise before Friday? Its getting below freezing at night around here now (central IN) and I don't want pipes busting! Thanks for the advice!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern VA 38 degrees N by 76 degrees W
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    5,058
    Quote Originally Posted by strawmyers View Post
    Furnance has been sporatically messing up. Will work fine for a month, then screw a few times in one day, then be fine again for awhile. Light on the board flashes a code 42 for improper inducer fan speed whenever its messing up. Turn power off and on to the unit and it usually starts working... may take 1 time, may take 10. When its not working, it shuts down after the inducer fan is running for awhile; but before the ignitor starts glowing. Once its starts working, it may be great for a couple of weeks; or it may start acting up after 45 seconds.

    Been searching to see what the problem could be (which is how I found this forum). One guy mentioned his problem resolving after opening up the inducer and cleaning all of the crud out; which he thought allowed it to better balance. Is this a realistic assumption? I do have some pretty nasty looking black stuff that came out of the collector box for the drain tubes when I flushed it. I'd imagine the inside of the inducer must have a lot of build up, too. $+ for a new inducer is going to make for some not so happy holidays
    Your inducer motor is more tan likely not the problem and does not need replaced. have the service tech on Friday flush out the secondary from the inducer all the way through the trap and determine why the control fuse was removed.

  6. #6
    Will do. Thanks! Any input on the "emergency heat" setting?

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Northern VA 38 degrees N by 76 degrees W
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    Quote Originally Posted by strawmyers View Post
    Will do. Thanks! Any input on the "emergency heat" setting?
    That would be for HP with electric or HP with furnace or boiler etc.

    You have only gas furnace no EH

  8. #8
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    Ron.

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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Cincinnati, Oh
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    would you happen to be on propane?

    Is your outdoor unit up on "legs"?
    "Better tell the sandman to stay away, because we're gonna be workin on this one all night."

    "Dude, you need more than 2 wires to a condenser to run a 2 stage heatpump."

    "Just get it done son."

    Dad adjusted

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Location
    houston, texas
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    Some of the inducers had the wheel inside painted, over time the paint would chip away and cause problems. As far as the fuse being bypassed, maybe the last tech was to lazy to get a new fuse out of his service truck.
    I'm not tolerating Political Correctness anymore, from now on it's tell it like it is.

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  11. #11
    Yes, I am on propane. And yes, the tank has "legs" on a foundation that elevate the bottom of the tank ~ 1' above the ground.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Cincinnati, Oh
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    Quote Originally Posted by strawmyers View Post
    Yes, I am on propane. And yes, the tank has "legs" on a foundation that elevate the bottom of the tank ~ 1' above the ground.
    Since your on propane, you need to have someone come out with a combustion analizer.
    It sounds like your sooting up the heat exchanger. Not good.

    When I said outdoor unit, I actually mean your air conditioner. (my bad)
    what I'm actually trying to figure out, is if you have a heat pump outside, with a propane gas furnace.

    Which would explain why you have an "EM heat" on your stat.
    "Better tell the sandman to stay away, because we're gonna be workin on this one all night."

    "Dude, you need more than 2 wires to a condenser to run a 2 stage heatpump."

    "Just get it done son."

    Dad adjusted

  13. #13
    No heat pump... just a crappy AC unit. I don't know that I do have an emergency heat spot on the board, just saw it mentioned in other threads and wondered how to utilize it. Looks like I can't with just the propane furnace.

    I don't know that the furnace was ever converted over properly for propane as it comes from the factory for NG. If not, would that account for the soot issue, if there is one? I know prices are not allowed on here; but what about general price ranges? As in, Sorry, no pricing questions allowed If that's not allowed either, I can respect that as a rule of the board.
    Last edited by beenthere; 12-07-2011 at 04:55 AM. Reason: pricing question

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