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  1. #1
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    Digi Cool sensor mod......

    anyone have any pic/instructions on how to do the digi cool to cooper temp sensor upgrade? Or possibly know where i can find it in a thread somewhere?!?!?! in the recent thread about the aks i saw the two headphone jack plug upgrade, i would love to do that but don't know what it entails......
    I dont install leaks, i just fix em

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  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevincompass View Post
    thanks!
    I dont install leaks, i just fix em

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  4. #4
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    Im not really educated when it comes to digital thermometers so this may be a dumb question.But it seems to me everyone would be alot happier if they would just use the popular k-type thermocouples.I know someone is gonna say it isnt as accurate on some levels or something,but considering they are widely used in the industry and even mentioned in most service manuals they must have acceptable accuracy.Ive used them for several years and have never had ant problems with durability or accuracy.It would also allow you to use a much wider variaty of thermocouples especially clamp type.If I can ever afford the DC900 I intend on experimenting and using k-type hoohups so as to use all the ones I currently have.Is there some reason other than preference or some miniature accuracy differance?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by stickinit2thman View Post
    Im not really educated when it comes to digital thermometers so this may be a dumb question.But it seems to me everyone would be alot happier if they would just use the popular k-type thermocouples.I know someone is gonna say it isnt as accurate on some levels or something,but considering they are widely used in the industry and even mentioned in most service manuals they must have acceptable accuracy.Ive used them for several years and have never had ant problems with durability or accuracy.It would also allow you to use a much wider variaty of thermocouples especially clamp type.If I can ever afford the DC900 I intend on experimenting and using k-type hoohups so as to use all the ones I currently have.Is there some reason other than preference or some miniature accuracy differance?
    from what i have seen and been told is that k-type thermocouples reading can be highly obstructed by voltage. There are pics floating around somewhere of a fluke thermometer with k-type having issues reading temps accurately due to electrical interference present. I used my fluke 52-2 all the time till i was show and told about this, now all that i use are thermistor type thermometers, i currently use the cooper sh66a and love it! this is why i wanna do the upgrade because you can use the cooper pipe straps with the digi cools, which is awesome!
    I dont install leaks, i just fix em

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by KLEINman View Post
    from what i have seen and been told is that k-type thermocouples reading can be highly obstructed by voltage. There are pics floating around somewhere of a fluke thermometer with k-type having issues reading temps accurately due to electrical interference present. I used my fluke 52-2 all the time till i was show and told about this, now all that i use are thermistor type thermometers, i currently use the cooper sh66a and love it! this is why i wanna do the upgrade because you can use the cooper pipe straps with the digi cools, which is awesome!
    Do you mean if they are colse to the thermocouple? Or just stray or static elecricity in the area? I honestly havnt noticed any problems on residential units or for that matter commercial sites either. Have you had problems?

  7. #7
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    i have had k-type sensors act weird with my cellphone when talking to someone. it has also read crazy on random peoples homes. and when i go back to the house on PM's they do it again. never really new why.

  8. #8
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    With Thermocouple Sensors (think of the ones on gas valves that get changed out) the meter reads mV generated from the bi metal sensor the reading gets jacked around florescent lights, microwaves, near electric panel wiring, electric motors, thru a freezer/cooler doors with heaters and lights, wireless routers, static elec. when charging ......etc. any kind of electrical interference you can think of ...... even seen it in a warehouse when fork lifts zip by on concrete from the tires ......plus they wear out faster than thermistors.


    With NTC Thermistors (Negative Temperature Coefficient) and RTD (Resistance Temperature Detectors) the meter is reading actual resistance of a semiconductor that has known properties as it relates to temperature. Error can happen with poor connections with plugs and stuff like that but very little interference to worry about with this type of sensor.

    All that said I still use thermocouples every day but know where I'll use it and where I can't but I don't want them coupled to my expensive refrigeration gauge limiting where and when I can use it though.

    I am almost certain this is why some manufactures choose not to invest in building their units around thermocouple sensors.
    They are selling them to some guys that want them to work everywhere and not limited buy anything and they are doing their best with making that happen Thank you testo and Digi-Cool for that
    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by KLEINman View Post
    thanks!
    So when are you doing it?!!!!!
    Gotta have the right tool for the job!

    Where is all the stuff MADE IN THE USA?

    "Thats what we do Troy. Incredible, Invisible, Imbelivable things. We are an Unseen, Unknown, Unvincible fraternity of craftsman.."

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pascone10 View Post
    So when are you doing it?!!!!!
    after looking into is i wanna do the plug mod and not actually solder the wires in the head, i pm hvcpope for some instructions but no reply yet.....
    I dont install leaks, i just fix em

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by KLEINman View Post
    after looking into is i wanna do the plug mod and not actually solder the wires in the head, i pm hvcpope for some instructions but no reply yet.....
    I attached a picture of the "adapter" I made, you dont need to solder inside if the gauge if you dont want to..

    Head over to Radio Shack and pick up a female headphone jack and solder it to the wires coming out of the plug like in my picture.. If you have 2 sensors, then you will need 2 female headphone jacks.. Radio Shack has different size connectors, I forgot which size the cooper plugs are, so thats on you to find out...


  12. #12
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    If you want to start fresh the 4 pin sensor plug # for your 1250 is a Bulgin PX0410/04S/4450
    the gold plated pins are separate SA3347/1

    I got mine from www.digi-key.com

    Here is some product info and a cutaway.

    http://www.bulgin.co.uk/Products/Buc...00_Series.html

    http://www.bulgin.co.uk/PDFs/400SeriesWiring_iss3.pdf

    You may want to try and unscrew the end cap of your old plug and try and rig the wiring into the old plug.
    Not as easy as starting fresh but it can be done.
    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by y7turbo View Post
    I attached a picture of the "adapter" I made, you dont need to solder inside if the gauge if you dont want to..

    Head over to Radio Shack and pick up a female headphone jack and solder it to the wires coming out of the plug like in my picture.. If you have 2 sensors, then you will need 2 female headphone jacks.. Radio Shack has different size connectors, I forgot which size the cooper plugs are, so thats on you to find out...

    now i guess the end of that headphone jack unscrews allowing you to solder the connection on the inside and seal it back up??
    I dont install leaks, i just fix em

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