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Thread: strange system

  1. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by markvilleman View Post
    the TXVs might be undersize since ice build up on them. But, I didn't see ice on the evap. If the TXVs didn't feed enough R to them, the suction pressure and temp would be lower, then ice will build up very fast, right?
    No, The txv is wide open, it's not restricted or low on charge which is what would cause lower pressures. The issue at hand with the info given seems to be refrigeant is boilng off too soon in the evap, because not enough is entering, which is what's causing the 25degree evap SH Your goal should be somewhere between 6-10.
    Officially, Down for the count

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  2. #15
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    A have a restaraunt that has dual condensers on their walk in. Water valve is set above the normal condensing pressure so water is only used if the kitchen is extremely hot or the condenser gets greased up. Works extremely well. Unit is over 30 years old and has only broken down once.

  3. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by craig1 View Post
    A have a restaraunt that has dual condensers on their walk in. Water valve is set above the normal condensing pressure so water is only used if the kitchen is extremely hot or the condenser gets greased up. Works extremely well. Unit is over 30 years old and has only broken down once.
    ok, thanks,but...,How do you set the water regulater. Let say the normal condensing temp is 105F, the income water temp at 50F,do you adjust the outlet water temp at 115F. or even higher?

  4. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by markvilleman View Post
    ok, thanks,but...,How do you set the water regulater. Let say the normal condensing temp is 105F, the income water temp at 50F,do you adjust the outlet water temp at 115F. or even higher?
    Sounds about right, but i'm not sure, since I didn't touch it. I know on most days no water flows down the drain, but when the kitchen starts getting over 90 degrees (probably 110 up by the condenser at the ceiling) water starts to flow.

    Last year the restaurant got shut down in a surprise health inspection on the hottest day of the year. Had to trash the food in 5 prep tables, 2 reach-ins and 2 walk-ins. They called me out right away. Found the temp at 110 in the kitchen, probably 120-130 at the ceiling. Voltage was 104 at the outlets and a transformer on the utility pole was spewing oil from a relief vent. Most compressors in the place were off on overload, but old trusty was purring away holding 34 degrees while employees were stuffing all the surviving food into it.

    Restaurant owner wanted to know if it was possible to equip his other equipment with supplemental water cooling.

  5. #18
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    Sep 2011
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    supplemental water cooling does seem like a clever idea, I can think of quite a few businesses in my area that could really use this method but it might be more cost effective to just relocate condensing unit outdoors if possible

  6. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by markvilleman View Post
    ok, thanks,but...,How do you set the water regulater. Let say the normal condensing temp is 105F, the income water temp at 50F,do you adjust the outlet water temp at 115F. or even higher?
    If this water regulator is a typical pressure actuated valve and you want 105 Deg F condensing temperature, why look at the leaving water temperature?

    Just set it at 210 psig (for R22) and call it a day.

  7. #20
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    Aug 2009
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    Peoria IL
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    Sounds really cool but it sounds like they have had to many messing with it i have seen something like this to switch in summer and winter ended up making them all remotes and took out the water side all together like to see some pics of this setup

  8. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by icemeister View Post
    If this water regulator is a typical pressure actuated valve and you want 105 Deg F condensing temperature, why look at the leaving water temperature?

    Just set it at 210 psig (for R22) and call it a day.
    Thanks,icemeiste. Those two condensers connected in series and the water cooled upstream of the air cooled.I think the water cooled act like desk Ernest device then the air cooled cond act like condensing and sub cool . The regulator doesn't have mark on it and I have no clue what pressure would open the valve. So I thought it might use the outlet temp for R and water to adjust the pressure regulator. Am I wrong? Plesase give the detail how to do it,thanks.

  9. #22
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    The water cooled cond act like de-superheat device and the air cool cond doing condense and sub cool. Sorry for the typing mistake.

  10. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by markvilleman View Post
    ...Plesase give the detail how to do it,thanks.
    Use your high-side gauge.

    On any control, never rely on the markings on the control...if it has any. Those are for a rough reference point only.

  11. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by craig1 View Post
    A have a restaraunt that has dual condensers on their walk in. Water valve is set above the normal condensing pressure so water is only used if the kitchen is extremely hot or the condenser gets greased up. Works extremely well. Unit is over 30 years old and has only broken down once.
    Yes!!! that would work well on a lot of old dirty A/C RTU's around here. Problem is the owners will not fork out to simply clean them. Adding a second condenser would be out of the question.
    I have never seen this set up. Is this one OEM as ice mentioned ?

  12. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by markvilleman View Post
    Thanks,icemeiste. Those two condensers connected in series and the water cooled upstream of the air cooled.I think the water cooled act like desk Ernest device then the air cooled cond act like condensing and sub cool . The regulator doesn't have mark on it and I have no clue what pressure would open the valve. So I thought it might use the outlet temp for R and water to adjust the pressure regulator. Am I wrong? Plesase give the detail how to do it,thanks.
    Quote Originally Posted by icemeister View Post
    Use your high-side gauge.

    On any control, never rely on the markings on the control...if it has any. Those are for a rough reference point only.
    Unfortunately,there is no port for pressure measurement on hi side. Do you think I take the temp at the receiver outlet and convert it to pressure will work? Thanks.

  13. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by markvilleman View Post
    Unfortunately,there is no port for pressure measurement on hi side. Do you think I take the temp at the receiver outlet and convert it to pressure will work? Thanks.
    How can one properly service any system without an access to the high pressure side?

    Add one....

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