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  1. #1
    Help! Live in the NE have electric heat but have burned wood for over 20 years. Last year installed a Clayton Furnace which will burn wood or coal. I have had to replace the control unit 4 times. Here is what is happening. Orginal was an 8". Settings has been 100 degrees and 150 which is recommended for blower to turn off and on. Fan will only run and ciculate heat through trunk line to registers for 10 seconds and then shut off. Keeps cycling until heat builds up in fire box, fan comes on but only runs at this short cycle. Replaced with 11" run for month same problem. Replaced with 8" same thing. Installer check with units being shipped and mfg. now has 5". replaced with 5" two weeks ago and now it is doing same thing. Have emailed US Stove Company. They thought install was not allowing heat to escape furnace but plenum and trunk allows that to occur. Installer says power supply to fan has been cutoff and causing loss of calibration on control unit. That's not the case. Have therometer on flue pipe. When furnace and fan are working properly the temp on flue pipe doesn't reach 300 degrees when temp should be 250 to prevent creosote. Hope my babble makes sense. ANY HELP OUT THERE!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Cleveland, OH
    Posts
    2,285
    Is your blower on the correct speed? If you have the speed too high, you'll get short cycling because the fan control cools off too quick. Where are you getting return air from? Basement? Sometimes this air is too cold, causing same problem.

    If you've been messing with fan speeds, have your service company set it down a speed. Or two.

    Good? Bad? I'm the guy with the gun.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    459

    honeywell limit control

    you might increase your limit differential from 50 degrees to a higher value. let's say you set the 'on' value to 160 degree and 'off' at 90 degree. this would give you a 70 degree differential vs. 50. I would experiment with different settings until I found a value that worked.

  4. #4
    Will try both your suggestions. I appreciate them both. Weird thing is: I can take cover off and watch the setting dial move slowly till fan kicks on. Then in 10-15 second interval, dial will turn in opposite direction slowly then make a jump and shut off. The dial position is different now than when installed. Meaning-when installed lets say-the portion of dial which is number and dashed for fan on and off temps was at the 8:00 o'clock to 12:00 o'clock position. Now it is at the 4:00 to 8:00 o'clock position. Do you understand what I am saying. Does this make sense.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    459

    honeywell limit

    yepper, you are observing the fan-limit control doing exactly what it is suppose to do. I am assuming the fan-limit controller has (3) adjustable pointers.......the first being the 'fan off' setpoint, the second being the 'fan on' setpoint, and finally, the third being the 'high limit' (this is the maximum allowable temperature in the unit) UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE change the high limit setting.

    To change the pointers, prevent the dial from moving with one hand and slide the pointer with the other. You might want to lower both set points a wee bit, say to around 125 for 'fan on' and perhaps 70 'fan off' A good rule of thumb is....set your 'fan off' @3-5 above room temp.

    It should be at 90 mark now, try and moving it to 80 and see if you don't get better results.

    Good luck and be patient with what you do.

  6. #6
    Thanks for all your suggestions. Haven't adjusted high limit setting which I believe is 250. Installer said check for insulation around port for limit control rod. It is insulated. As I said before I am not over-heating furnace. It's capable of driving you out with heat. Flue temp (outside of flue pipe)except when starting a fire with kindling does reach 200 (I said 300 in earlier post) Can the unit lose calibration? Can understand somewhat how it works(expansion/contraction according to heat in furnace)How much heat are they built to withstand.
    As to Doug's reply, I have two cold air returns coming from the living room and family room upstairs, directly over the fan cabinet which has a filter on top. Also the door leading from another family room downstairs is slated which allows additional air although I understand it is somewhat more heated. Fan which came with this furnace has three speeds, however, I think it is wired only to run at high speed which is recommended for heating larger structures. Our home is 3,000 sq ft. Still looking for solution.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    midwest
    Posts
    2,868
    Your moving to much air over to small a fire. Why???
    Keep in mind there are hot wires that can kill you when doing what some are suggesting you do.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    burlington county n.j.
    Posts
    9,743
    have fan speed lowered. blower is short cycling because it is moving to much air for size of fire.

  9. #9
    Senior Tech Guest
    Unfortunately, due to site rules we as members can not discuss technical issues with the general public.

    Thank you for your cooperation


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