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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Arnold mo
    Posts
    3,941
    what is the temperature in the basement? On this main return that goes from the basement and into the attic before going down to the 2 upstairs return grills, are there any lower (1st floor) return grills also connected to it?
    An answer without a question is meaningless.
    Information without understanding is useless.
    You can lead a horse to water............
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  2. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Arnold mo
    Posts
    3,941
    Quote Originally Posted by d29481 View Post
    Thanks for all of the input.


    The house is two level, plus a basement and is absolutely not tight, we have a catherdral ceiling in the main living area with can lights which cold air flows freely. We have four bay windows each with can lights which flow freely and on top of that most of the windows in the house are ~15 years old and low end. The insulation can definitely be improved upon as well. These are all projects that I intend to eventually get to but for the time being they'll have to do.
    I'd have to say that this breeze you are feeling is not mainly comming from that return. As you say, the can lights are leaking air, the bay windows are lilely creating convective breezes -especially if they are single pane with no storm- and that cathedral ceiling is helping matters along. Do the upper wall areas of that living area under the cathedral ceiling have their backs to the attic?
    An answer without a question is meaningless.
    Information without understanding is useless.
    You can lead a horse to water............
    http://www.mohomeenergyaudits.com

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    2,793
    Quote Originally Posted by d29481 View Post
    what exactly is a duct blaster test?
    Its a pressure test performed with specific equipment to determine the amount of leakage in an AC system. You can usually find energy raters to do this type of service.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Sandy Hook, CT
    Posts
    9
    UPDATE:
    I still haven't figured out this dilemma.

    I had an energy audit company come out and door a "door seal" test....basically they put a sealed fan blowing air out of the front door, they shut all of the doors and windows, measure the negative pressure in the house, and then shut off the sealed fan and measure how quickly the pressure returns to normal. According to these folks, our house is very tight, actually on the verge of being unhealthy tight. I find that hard to beleive, but I followed up on a couple of other items this outfit told me and they were "spot-on", so I have confidence in what they told me.

    I'm not sure what to do at this point. We burned 8 cord of wood last winter (2011-2012) which kept the house warm and comfortable, and reduced our oil consumption by 53%. My point being, I don't think the cold air coming in via the return vent is outside air. I'm assuming the cool air is a function of the heated air rising and pushing the cool air through the return vents upstairs, down into the living room. Seems far-fetched, but it the only thing that seems feasible at this point.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    11
    [QUOTE=d29481;11765502] This fall we installed a wood burning fireplace insert QUOTE]

    Where did you Engineer it's cold air source? Adjecent to the fireplace? Or are you letting it pull its air from inside the hose; and letting cold air in in it's place?

    Sounds to me you aggrevated the issue by adding the additional draw.
    (I heat my home exclusivly with a catalytic wood stove in the winter, and have a draft port behind the stove)

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