Trane gas pack flame trouble

[SuperTech2010]

ever replace the thermostat?

agree.....or short in wiring...

[gravity]

why are you guys blowing up boards? shouldnt there be fuses of some sort?

[rnzler]

why are you guys blowing up boards? shouldnt there be fuses of some sort?

There is no fuse on that board.

[gravity]

it would be a good idea to put a fuse at the transformer then. any unit i come across with no fuse has a fuse rated for that transformer when i leave.

[rnzler]

it would be a good idea to put a fuse at the transformer then. any unit i come across with no fuse has a fuse rated for that transformer when i leave.

Same here. I had installed a new xformer, it came with a lame buss fuse, replaced it with the newer spade fuse. But still the board popped before the fuse. Wich is why I'm frustrated. :-P

[wvabeer]

I'm assuming you mean the high limit switch? Bout 6" long, 1" square shaft, (no pun intended) installed thru burner compartment, into heat xchanger? I'll double check it.
I'll contact you if I need it, thank you.

The "high limit" On the one I'm talking about did not have the square sheath on it. It was an aftermarket with exposed conductor that when heating/expanding shorted to ground.

[timebuilder]

Same here. I had installed a new xformer, it came with a lame buss fuse, replaced it with the newer spade fuse. But still the board popped before the fuse. Wich is why I'm frustrated. :-P

The blade fuse actually takes longer to open that a good buss fuse that is designed to respond quickly. Once you determine the ampacity, go to a good electronics catalog or even Grainger's book, and choose the right fuse that will open before you let the smoke out.

[timebuilder]

I have also been having this problem. Model ycx030f1m0ae, serial j38154370. Board has blown twice, right at the blower relay on the board. I disconnected the leads for the blower at the board, jumped the blower to the line side of the contactor, disconnected the stat wires at the unit, then jumped red-white-green at the unit. Blower runs fine (1.85 amps), unit cycles, flame kicks on with ignitor, then goes out when ignitor stops. I've checked everything, new flame sensor, still no sustainable flame. Then for the hell of it, I thought maybe because the blower leads weren't connected to the board, maybe it saw that and didn't want to stay lit. Well, I reconnected the blower leads, slam the disconnect in, and..............POW..............board pops in the same spot! I am so done with this unit! The only other thing I can think of is to replace the motor and gas valve. But even then I'm sure if that will fix the problem! Anybody have any thoughts? Thank you.

1) Are you a tech?

2) You should start your own thread for this.

[swift one]

This may help/ or thought If this unit has a baklite blower terminal block in the blower section. remove/ jump around it. Had same problem years back. With a trane gas pak. If memory serves me correct.

[rnzler]

1) Are you a tech?

2) You should start your own thread for this.

Yes, I am a tech. I've never encountered an issue like this. I've checked and rechecked everything on this unit. I'm stumped, so I figured a google search couldn't hurt. It brought me here. Hoping another tech with more experience or one that has experienced this issue could help.