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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Evans,West Virginia
    Posts
    14

    Angry Trane gas pack flame trouble

    I have been working on a Trane YCX048F1HOAC manu 06/94
    My original trouble was a few weeks ago I go to the house and find the heat anticipater burn't I slide the pot to close and try it again it works just fine after checking the amp draw. Then as I get ready to go I always take a last look and POW it's not running so I open it up and find the secondary fuse blown I come to the conclsion the board #CNT 2216 is bad so trane has an updated board #CNT03457 with kit after installing the kit and new board it fires up and goes out at the moment the igniter stops ,it gets a no flame sense code so I check the flame sensor its good but install a new one and check again and have 4 micro amps and still does the same thing. by the way I replaced the board again.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Frederick, MD
    Posts
    857

    Did you

    ever replace the thermostat?
    GO NAVY, BEAT ARMY!

    A DECADE OF DOMINANCE! +1

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    71
    So the board had an internal short? Does it have a good ground? Whats the amp draw of the valve?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Evans,West Virginia
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by atoztech View Post
    So the board had an internal short? Does it have a good ground? Whats the amp draw of the valve?
    The valve seemed to work on fire up, so I did not check it.
    I checked all of the grounds. What part of the valve could would make the board think no flame?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Evans,West Virginia
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by wvabeer View Post
    The valve seemed to work on fire up, so I did not check it.
    I checked all of the grounds. What part of the valve could would make the board think no flame?
    I was also told by my parts guy that he has sold bad Trane boards.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Southeastern Pa
    Posts
    14,476
    Quote Originally Posted by atoztech View Post
    So the board had an internal short? Does it have a good ground? Whats the amp draw of the valve?

    That's an important step.

    I often place a jumper between the burner tube where the flame sensor rod is located, and connect it to a known good ground on the board. If that solves the problem, then you have to look at all your ground connections, since there should always be a low impedance ground from the board to the burners.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Evans,West Virginia
    Posts
    14
    Well here is the scoop the board that I replaced grounded on the unit the one I installed was an up dated mounting on plastic tabs, nowhere in the install kit did it say add a ground to the common terminal. I got that piece of info from Trane tech.
    Thanks for Ya'lls help

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Southeastern Pa
    Posts
    14,476
    Quote Originally Posted by wvabeer View Post
    Well here is the scoop the board that I replaced grounded on the unit the one I installed was an up dated mounting on plastic tabs, nowhere in the install kit did it say add a ground to the common terminal. I got that piece of info from Trane tech.
    Thanks for Ya'lls help
    The board was probably designed around the idea that the transformer secondary has a ground connection, so whatever common wire there is in the board would constitute the needed grounding.

    Every gas fired appliance should have one side of the transformer secondary tied to cabinet ground, and the cabinet should be bonded to the electrical service via a ground conductor or through some other approved means, such as the metal spiral in sealtite or a metal tube or conduit.
    Last edited by timebuilder; 11-15-2011 at 06:49 AM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Evans,West Virginia
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by gregp View Post
    ever replace the thermostat?
    Yes I replaced the Tstat at the completion of the job.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WV
    Posts
    111
    Quote Originally Posted by gregp View Post
    ever replace the thermostat?
    agree.....or short in wiring...

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ripley, WV
    Posts
    819
    Quote Originally Posted by wvabeer View Post
    I have been working on a Trane YCX048F1HOAC manu 06/94
    My original trouble was a few weeks ago I go to the house and find the heat anticipater burn't I slide the pot to close and try it again it works just fine after checking the amp draw. Then as I get ready to go I always take a last look and POW it's not running so I open it up and find the secondary fuse blown I come to the conclsion the board #CNT 2216 is bad so trane has an updated board #CNT03457 with kit after installing the kit and new board it fires up and goes out at the moment the igniter stops ,it gets a no flame sense code so I check the flame sensor its good but install a new one and check again and have 4 micro amps and still does the same thing. by the way I replaced the board again.
    I was wondering if you checked the heat exchangers? When a package unit gets to that age, it's a good idea to make sure the heat exchanger isn't compromised. Welcome to the site, BTW who do you work for in Evans?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Evans,West Virginia
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by Rob_in_WV View Post
    I was wondering if you checked the heat exchangers? When a package unit gets to that age, it's a good idea to make sure the heat exchanger isn't compromised. Welcome to the site, BTW who do you work for in Evans?
    I work for myself.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ripley, WV
    Posts
    819
    Quote Originally Posted by wvabeer View Post
    I work for myself.
    Cool, I'm from Ripley

    Sorry Mods I didn't mean to hijack the tread.

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