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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    212
    I installed radiant pex tubing underneath my kitchen floor which is tiled. It's a separate zone from my baseboard heating in the rooms next to the kitchen. I have 2 thermostats on that floor, one for the baseboards in the living/dining room and one for the pex tubing in the kitchen. The thermostats are *edit-->10 feet apart mounted on the walls. I'm thinking they will cause a problem for me due to the different type of heating styles they both do. The tubing will need more time to heat but the baseboard may trigger the kitchen's t-stat to shut off prematurely.

    I'm hooking this system up in it's final stages within the next couple of weeks and would like to know if there is a different type of controller I can use for the kitchen radiant system. I may need a timer of some sorts if I'm thinking about this right. Right now the 2 t-stats are installed but not controlling anything until final install, but I can see the temps are the same on them. Could I have used both rooms as one zone? The whole area of that floor is only 800 sf.

    [Edited by cissado on 02-02-2006 at 10:32 AM]

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    921

    Need control

    You can do it several ways one way is to set up the valve with a minimum open position that will always have flow to the floor during a specific season or a given outside temperature. Or you could have a floor sensor that maintains a specific floor temperature. What type of set up do you have joist plates? Or Joist hangers? Or Panels?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    654
    You have a mixing valve feeding the PEX tubing right? You can't run full temp heating water for a radiant floor. Just wondering.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    921

    Confused You need to provide more info

    Maximum fluid temperature for all joist applications is 180 degrees. This will change with application used such as joist plates only need 80 degree water temp

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    212
    I do have a mixing valve installed. The tubing is under the plywood that's under the tile, staples up with aluminum heat plates that were notched for the tubing. They are roughly 6 inches apart throughout the floor. I have rigid board insulation underneath the tubings with some aior space in between and reflective foil facing up towards the heating tubes. The system calls for 140-155(?) degrees as I was told by the supplier. I ran the tubes and all the copper piping to the system(s) and it will be all connected by a technician. (YES) we have already agreed igf anything goes wrong with the original piping, it's on me. lol

    I think I may need that "in-floor" gauge. Would that be like a t-stat inside the floor? I'll have to look for those. Any suggestions?



    thanks for the replies.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    921

    yes

    Yes like a T stat but will maintain a floor temperature at point

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    212
    I've found this so far... http://www.pexconnection.com/product...=409&catID=106

    I don't mind the price but I don't think it has programmable capabilities like the others in my home. I'd hate to have to remember to turn it up or down every so often.

    If anyone has installed 5 or 7 day programmable t-stats in floor applications, I'd love to hear about the product.

    My other option is keeping the stat that's there and just raising the temp there for it to stay on and shut off at the desired time with the program. I'd like to avoid that if i can though.

    One more question... WHERE exactly do I place the end of the in floor stat in my floors? There's the tile on top, "cement", plywood, pex tubing, air space, rigid board, sheetrock?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Posts
    1,196
    Wirsbo's 511s is designed specifically for what you want to do. It's made by tekmar, and goes by a slightly different part number with the tekmar name. (can't remember). about 3" square, make sure you run at least 6 conductor wire to it-it needs all of that.

    It has PID logic for radiant heating curves, backlighting, programmable, and comes with a slab sensor for controlling the floor temp. If you want 2 stage for radiant with some sort of supplemental heat, you want the 512s.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Posts
    1,196
    BTW, the slab sensor really should be sleeved if there is pour so you can get it out if it goes bad.. I use 3/8 copper line as a chase. Try to get it in a good average area between tubes, and in an area you use a lot.

    if the floor is suspended, and you can get underneath,and you can't get a sleeve in the floor (because it's done), get 1" foam board, cut a small square, and sandwich the sensor between the bottom of the subfloor and the foam board. You may have to find the compensation point on the stat to make floor temps correspond to your set point this way, but it will work.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    212
    Thank you hydro, that's exactly what I was looking for. The floor and room are finished, sheetrocked, painted and I do have to retrofit it in there. Since the system is being connected tomorrow, I'll have to see how the current t-stat works and go from there. I may just need to take off the baseboard trim on the floor under the t-stat location and snake a curved tube down the wall at the floor with the new T-stat cable inside of it. Sounds good. Thanks again.


    I may only have a 5 conducter ran for the stat. I have to double check. This job has been sitting for two years. Ouch..

  11. #11
    Mod3 Guest
    Due to Site Rules we are not allowed to discuss "step by step" or "technical issues" in this area.

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    Provide some general information in your profile. This way we can discuss this matter in the Pro-Forums.


  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    212
    Sorry. Appreciate the site though, I'll keep reading.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    921

    Tube

    You can cut and snake apex tube down the wall into the floor and slide the sensor down. I agree 100% look into the wirsbo.

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